Bowtie70SS Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Broke another tensioner today. I was trying to make a yellow light, I did, at the cost of my belt tensioner. The pulley is MIA. My buddy at the parts store is getting tired of warranting them, but he'll do another. Some of us really need a fix for this. I was looking at a way to try and brace it from the back with a piece of 1/4 inch steel or something. Oh well what's another $90, my truck is a money grubbing whore. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 What part is breaking on it? I have yet to snap one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Do like FUelSlut and keep an extra tensioner, belt and wrench behind the back seat. Put the autozone reciept in the box and if this happens again, swap the new in and take the old back for your new replacement, hassle but might keep you from getting stranded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holty Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 What part is breaking on it? I have yet to snap one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.justin. Posted August 15, 2006 Report Share Posted August 15, 2006 Maybe you're using too short of a belt and it is keeping too much of a load on the tensioner all the time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 That's what I think also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuelSlut Posted August 29, 2006 Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 (edited) no, i was told the issue is with blower "bleed-off", this "breakage" only occurs when your in mid to high RPM and straight let-off without proper/smooth RPM transition (high/mid to low) best way to prevent this, make sure you shift if your gonna "blip" the throttle.... the tensioner is not strog enough to withstand the drastic change in RPM, the blower in a sense "locks".... i posted a pic a LONG time ago of what and where the tensioner breaks... picture... the tensioner arm straight in half... FYI, murrays no longer carries Daayco products, however, they now carry "gatorback/goodyear" tensioners... and i have yet to have someone cross-reff. the part numbers for me so i can give the gatorback tensioner a shot... from what i have noticed, the goodyear's look a tad bit more robust aswell... all this i noticed a month ago when my 2/4 band was taking a crap (again), i blew out THREE TENSIONERS IN FIFTEEN MINUTES... the in-ability to shift into second gear....i would drive... hit 6 grand without sifting into second.... let off the throttle and wallah!!! just like a fun f'n magic trick "battery not charging" no power steering... tensioner took a frumpy the end Edited August 29, 2006 by FuelSlut (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted August 29, 2006 Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 I think Ktech and a few other companies sell billet tensioners. You may want to look into that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuelSlut Posted August 29, 2006 Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 the tensioner for the radix setup is not the factory one... so an aftermarket one for our motor is out of the question as far as i know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vdrumright Posted August 29, 2006 Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 What part is breaking on it? I have yet to snap one <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Me either......What belt size are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie70SS Posted August 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 I'm running a 110.5 Gatorback and a 2.9 pulley. I think the belt tensioner on the Radix is the same one for a late 80's early 90's Ford F150 with a 300 six. I was looking at the tensioner, and assuming I could take it apart without losing a finger or an eye I think I could have a steel tensioner made. It's not real high on the priority list right now and I would have to take a $70 tensioner apart to do it. Fortunately for me I have buddies at the parts store and have been able to warranty them out. I also looked at the possibility of adding a brace to the tensioner, but that would be tough also. As for now I try to avoid letting off the throttle at high RPMS and come down easy. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuelSlut Posted August 30, 2006 Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 your 100% correct on the proper application of the tensioner... my uncle's neighbor owns an older f150... and well... started to overheat and have an issue with power-steering, when i went over to fix it, i took one look at the tensioner and knew right away what part number it was going to be. i used to have no problem at murrays with warranty, but as i said, they no longer carry daayco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moregrip Posted August 30, 2006 Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 might try polishing the outside of the tensioner and relieve some of the stress risers/excess casting material Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BmanSS Posted August 30, 2006 Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 Take a look at this it may help http://www.hotrodhotline.com/pr/06katech/ or may not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie70SS Posted August 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2006 Only problem with the Katech is that is to replace the factory tensioner...the radix tensioner is off of a Ford F150 300 six cylinder. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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