Royal Purple

[haulin79]

RP is some of the best synthetic oil that is readily available in the market, i.e. not a tweaky custom speciality brand.

[shakesvho]

I always uses Moble1 from the day it came out never had a problem and worked great, I just started with RP(have about 2K on it right now) and after reading this I may go back

[BumpinSS]

Ignore my post...I can't find the link to back it up, looks like it got deleted on the other site.

[BumpinSS]

ok, here's a quote from bobistheoilguy.com and it has been said across the GTO forums, vette forums, and 350Z forums. RP's addatives seem to have changed recently when they started lowering the price and selling it at Wal-marts.

 

I myself always had great results with Royal Purple up till recently ( last year)...I still run and swear by their Diff Fluids.....RP manufacturers their own additives.....my suspicions based on my recent poor results along with many others poor results is that something has changed....that is why I ask publically...has a formula changed? Has a supplier changed? Has something changed?

As for your "rumor" comment. I agree the internet is a rumor hotbed....but too many UOA's and personal comments from folks not only here but on various gearhead forums reflect shearing and poor wear results documented in UOA's by more than one lab....that is not a rumor friend..that is a documented trend...for your files ..........

According to Royal Purple's Martin, oil really doesn't become what it is until you add the additives.

 

"All of the benefits are in the additives," says Martin. "Even in terms of racing oils most oil companies purchase additive packages. There are only a handful of additive suppliers globally. So in many cases the oils are basically the same with the only differences being the marketing. We actually manufacture our own additives. We aren't a refinery so we buy our base oil but that's the flour in the cake. The two major characteristics of our additives is the film strength, which is the load carrying characteristics of the oil not just the wear, and the oxidation resistance."

 

Here are some Oil Analysis charts done with the different oils on the market with a VQ motor. (350Z)

 

Silicon (Si) and

Aluminum (Al) 10 to 30 ppm Dirt ingestion Air intake system, oil filter plugging, oil filler cap and breather, valve covers, oil supply

Iron (Fe) 100 to 200 ppm Wear of cylinder liner, valve and gear train, oil pump, rust in system Excessive oil consumption, abnormal engine noise,performance problems, oil pressure, abnormal operating temperatures, stuck/broken piston rings

Chromium (CR) 10 to 30 ppm Piston ring wear Excessive oil blow-by and oil consumption, oil degradation

Copper (CU) 10 to 50 ppm Bearings and bushings wear, oil cooler passivating,radiator corrosion Coolant in engine oil, abnormal noise when operating at near stall speed

Lead (Pb)* 40 to 100 ppm Bearing corrosion Extended oil change intervals

Copper (CU) and

Lead (Pb)* 10 to 50 ppm Bearing lining wear Oil pressure, abnormal engine noise, dirt being ingested in air intake, fuel dilution, extended oil drain intervals

Aluminum (Al) 10 to 30 ppm Piston and piston thrust bearing wear Blow-by gases, oil consumption, power loss, abnormal engine noise

Silver and

Tin 2 to 5 ppm

10 to 30 ppm Wear of bearings Excessive oil consumption, abnormal engine noise, loss in oil pressure

Viscosity Change

Lack of lubrication Fuel dilution, blow-by gases, oil oxidation, carburetor choke, ignition timing, injectors, injector pump, oil pressure

Water/Anti-freeze

Coolant leak or condensation Coolant supply, gasket sealed, hose connection, oil filler cap and breather

 

bobistheoilguy.com is a great site everyone should check out. Great info on oils there along with test results.

Edited July 17, 2007 by BumpinSS (see edit history)

[Holty]

how can you compare any of these test if they were not all done to the same mileage?

[Badkarma]

Carefull with the Royal Purple, It was tested by Blackstone labs and said to be the worst performing oil to date, with high wear numbers and high shear. (trying to find where I read it so I can post the link)

 

I can would tend to agree with this, Atleast in regards to there SAE oil that is sold at pep boys and what not. I ran the street oil for a bit in my camaro and decided to test it against there racing oil. fresh oil and filter changes for both, back to back. Now I know this isnt going to seem like a lab test or anything technical, but it swayed me. After fresh change of SAE oil and filer, and a hard run down a measured distance the SAE was drained. Came out like thin water.

Next was the racing oil of the same weight. Fresh oil, fresh filter. Same distance, same shift RPM *6000* same temp outside * back to back tests* Come drain time, the racing oil flowed out like oil, not water. I also noticed at the end of the run that the racing oil didnt have the slight preasure drop that the SAE had. Now granted, this wasnt in the SS. It was im my camaro with a full roller 383 with 3000 miles on it. Now I know alot of you are laughing at this, but it made me decide to run the racing oil from there on out. Not scientific in the least, but I feel alot better when my oil dosent come out that thin.

[CoolBlueSS]

how can you compare any of these test if they were not all done to the same mileage?

I tend to agree. Not saying that the test are invalid, but there are soooooo many variables. Each engine is going to have different wear characteristics, was it the same driving conditions/habits, and milage intervals.

 

Still good info for comparison.

[SS TowPig]

hmm well i been runnin RP in my SSS since i've had it and really gives me good gas mileage and the truck performs well...so we'll see...thanks for everyones input though

[Z4pp]

What do you guys think about MOTUL oil? I run that on my little racecar and it seems very good, havent changed the oil in 7,000 miles and still looks good. Going to change it soon though. :]