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Long Tubes?


RacerJJ

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Is that coated ones? That's a ton off!!! JC Whitney sells them for $432 for coated and $285 for plain, so that's a heck of a deal including shipping.

 

Anyone else feel like this thread is a version of the "Doctor, doctor... doctor, doctor... doctor, doctor" scene from "Spies Like Us"?

 

Brad, Brad... Brad, Brad... Brad, Brad... :crackup:

yes thats coated part# 72c-2265 the oncoated one's are 70-2265 heres a old pic of mine when i got them...

post-8665-1188525715_thumb.jpg

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Okay, I ordered my Pace Setters. Now I need some ideas on installation. How long? How difficult? Can I do it in my driveway? Do I need a lift? What else will I need? TIA...

Just helped with a Pacesetter installation yesterday on a 2WD truck; very easy, installing headers on my 2-gen Firebird was far harder (for comparision). Starter didn't have to come down. Expect to pull the plug wires off to make room, and you will have to disassemble the steering shaft momentarily on the driver's side (easy). Your biggest biatch will be dealing with the oil dipstick tube on the passenger's side, re-stabbing that thing proved to require lots of patience. I also expect that the front driveshaft will have to come down as the headers are inserted from the bottom. Truck was on tall jackstands. I considered the fit very good, we cleaned the heads with 400 wet/dry paper and used Autozone Fel-Pro gaskets and they sealed-up leak free. Oh yeah, last hint always tighten bolts from the center outward and go easy, I would torque to spec in 3 passes and remember you are dealing with aluminum heads so I would consider using some antiseize on the threads.

 

Mr. P.

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well since you are AWD its a bit different than my install because of your front drive shaft, that hardes part for us was taking off the stock exhaust, the actual header install only took about 30 min. you need to jack up the front of the truck to get them under, be careful not to break any spark plugs with the header flanges during the install.be sure to use the stock steel gaskets not eh ones that are supplied. you dont need the 02 extensions either. you need to take it to a shop to weld on some flanges so it can bolt up to your exhaust.

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OMG!!! I installed my OBX headers this weekend and HOOOOOOLY CRAP what a difference over stock manifolds with gutted cats Batman! The butt-o-meter loves this mod a LOT more than tuning, CAI, or TB stall!!! :driving:

 

Mr P, I'm with you. I've only installed headers on ol-school hot rods and street machines and this was BY FAR easier to do. OBX headers bolt right in place of the stock stuff, so I'm sure I had an even easier time than you. The hardest part was the rear manifold bolt on the driver's side, so I went to the tool shop and got a ratchet box end wrench and got it from underneath. Outside of that it was feaking cake!!! I didn't undo the steering shaft at all though, so I'm not sure what you're doing there, maybe you didn't have the right length extensions??? And no trouble with the dipstick tube... no driveshaft undoing either... Drove up on ramps. I think it was actually harder to get the stock manifolds out of there than it was to push the new ones up through. In fact, the headers fell back down twice because they wouldn't hook onto anything to keep them in place long enough for me to get up top and start a bolt. I finally hooked it on one of the plugs...

 

I believe I was outside for a total of 6 hours and that included 1.5 hours to mow and 3 trips (tool shop, two different auto parts stores to find spark plug wire sleeves, and lunch). All in all, I would put about an hour and a half for the actual header install.

Edited by SS_bnoon_SS (see edit history)
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Thanks everyone! These are the encouraging words I needed to hear! :thumbs: BTW, if anyone is interested in buying Pacesetters, BYUNSPEED has them on sale for $374.99 shipped. That's right, that's the total! That is the cheapest I have found them yet.

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OMG!!! I installed my OBX headers this weekend and HOOOOOOLY CRAP what a difference over stock manifolds with gutted cats Batman! The butt-o-meter loves this mod a LOT more than tuning, CAI, or TB stall!!! :driving:

 

Mr P, I'm with you. I've only installed headers on ol-school hot rods and street machines and this was BY FAR easier to do. OBX headers bolt right in place of the stock stuff, so I'm sure I had an even easier time than you. The hardest part was the rear manifold bolt on the driver's side, so I went to the tool shop and got a ratchet box end wrench and got it from underneath. Outside of that it was feaking cake!!! I didn't undo the steering shaft at all though, so I'm not sure what you're doing there, maybe you didn't have the right length extensions??? And no trouble with the dipstick tube... no driveshaft undoing either... Drove up on ramps. I think it was actually harder to get the stock manifolds out of there than it was to push the new ones up through. In fact, the headers fell back down twice because they wouldn't hook onto anything to keep them in place long enough for me to get up top and start a bolt. I finally hooked it on one of the plugs...

 

I believe I was outside for a total of 6 hours and that included 1.5 hours to mow and 3 trips (tool shop, two different auto parts stores to find spark plug wire sleeves, and lunch). All in all, I would put about an hour and a half for the actual header install.

 

Hey Brad,

Did you have any problems with slip fit pipes? I have mine sitting here and i can't get some of the pipes to slide into the mating one? How did the clamps work out for you? I used one of those clamps on my current bassani set up and it leaks like hell...

 

Brad

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Hey Brad,

Did you have any problems with slip fit pipes? I have mine sitting here and i can't get some of the pipes to slide into the mating one? How did the clamps work out for you? I used one of those clamps on my current bassani set up and it leaks like hell...

 

Brad

Threadjack: don't use slip collectors, total POS and guaranteed to leak like hell, if not on the initial install then when you have to take out & reassemble later for tranny work. Get the truck to a shop and have flanges welded in, ball-socket type or v-band are nicest but the old-skool 3-bolt triangular will do the job for little dinero.

 

Mr. P.

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Get the truck to a shop and have flanges welded in, ball-socket type or v-band are nicest but the old-skool 3-bolt triangular will do the job for little dinero.

 

Mr. P.

 

I agree. I did the common 3 bolt flanges and now wish I did the V-bands. Once you drop the tranny 2x, I am sure you will appreciate the V-bands.

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Hey Brad,

Did you have any problems with slip fit pipes? I have mine sitting here and i can't get some of the pipes to slide into the mating one? How did the clamps work out for you? I used one of those clamps on my current bassani set up and it leaks like hell...

 

Brad

 

I had one pipe that was dented in shiping and had to expand it back to be round, but everything fit just fine after that.

 

 

Threadjack: don't use slip collectors, total POS and guaranteed to leak like hell, if not on the initial install then when you have to take out & reassemble later for tranny work. Get the truck to a shop and have flanges welded in, ball-socket type or v-band are nicest but the old-skool 3-bolt triangular will do the job for little dinero.

 

Mr. P.

 

The slip fit band included with the OBX headers are the stainless steel flat band clamps with the extra slip fit "step up" built right in. They work about 10 times better than the old fashioned exhaust clamps and do NOT leak. I think maybe you thought he was talking about the collector area, but they aren't used there. OBX uses these slip fit connections at the transmission crossover tube and behind the passenger's side cat. For the collectors, OBX uses a 3 bolt flange, but it's not the old school kind of 3 bolt. It's a ball/socket 3 bolt hybrid that works REALLY well. I would choose V-band over this type if I were to make my own in day dream land, but the OBX hardware is top notch!

 

Edit: Here's a pic of the type of slip fit clamp used on the intermediate pipes.

 

post-7241-1188930677_thumb.jpg

Edited by SS_bnoon_SS (see edit history)
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OMG!!! I installed my OBX headers this weekend and HOOOOOOLY CRAP what a difference over stock manifolds with gutted cats Batman! The butt-o-meter loves this mod a LOT more than tuning, CAI, or TB stall!!! :driving:

 

Mr P, I'm with you. I've only installed headers on ol-school hot rods and street machines and this was BY FAR easier to do. OBX headers bolt right in place of the stock stuff, so I'm sure I had an even easier time than you. The hardest part was the rear manifold bolt on the driver's side, so I went to the tool shop and got a ratchet box end wrench and got it from underneath. Outside of that it was feaking cake!!! I didn't undo the steering shaft at all though, so I'm not sure what you're doing there, maybe you didn't have the right length extensions??? And no trouble with the dipstick tube... no driveshaft undoing either... Drove up on ramps. I think it was actually harder to get the stock manifolds out of there than it was to push the new ones up through. In fact, the headers fell back down twice because they wouldn't hook onto anything to keep them in place long enough for me to get up top and start a bolt. I finally hooked it on one of the plugs...

 

I believe I was outside for a total of 6 hours and that included 1.5 hours to mow and 3 trips (tool shop, two different auto parts stores to find spark plug wire sleeves, and lunch). All in all, I would put about an hour and a half for the actual header install.

you are one of the first SSS to rave about the gains of the OBX,thx. PLease give us some more on how they are, are you getting the tune adjusted for them??? I want to do my exhaust but I need to feel the gain.

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