cerbomark Posted February 4, 2004 Report Share Posted February 4, 2004 Oct 2003 Motor Trend magazine had a write up on the SS and said braking from 60-0 was 119 feet which was only one foot longer than the Merc Benz E55 . I guess there is always room for improvement though. They ran 1/4 in 14.99 at 89.05MPH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plwtwo Posted February 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2004 Yeah thats true, Jason, but what they don't tell you, is that there isn't enough space for all the slotting it takes to equal the same effects cross-drilled give you. If you watched any of the 24hr of Daytona, not many had slotted rotors, but all had drilled? I believe if you will tune into any of the Nascar road races they run drilled only brakes 9 out of 10 times. All our Panoz cars run both slotted and drilled for the best of both worlds. Both my race bikes, Honda RC51 and CBR954 have drilled only. And my street bikes do as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette dude Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 yeah, can we get unsloted and no crossdrilled rotors, i can't stand that crap... what a waste... Why do you feel as though the slotted or cross drilled rotors are a waste. Do you even know what the reason for cross drillg them is? If you are going to spend the money to upgrade you brakes, it has a functional purpose. If you are looking at the "Cool Look factor" you might as well just paint your rotors red!!! maybee u missred my post, but cross drilling, and slotting is a waste, it is only cosmetic, totally non funnctional, If you think other wise than ... do some reading bud.. Just beacause everyone does it don't meen crap.... It is cool if you don't believe me, but CD and sloted rotors are no better than solid rotors on a street car. The sloted may, and i say may with strong influence be worth it. THe CDing takes away surface area, and reduces the strength of the rotor. I know that the HIPO cars are coming with em, but it don't mean jack... And by the way, the bikes do it for a tottaly different reason... and that would be weight, if you think of it a bike already has overkill for brakes, they are less than a ourth of the weight of most cars. Preactical on bikes, not cars. The bikes are trying to remove unsprong weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AUTOGUY Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 yeah, can we get unsloted and no crossdrilled rotors, i can't stand that crap... what a waste... Why do you feel as though the slotted or cross drilled rotors are a waste. Do you even know what the reason for cross drillg them is? If you are going to spend the money to upgrade you brakes, it has a functional purpose. If you are looking at the "Cool Look factor" you might as well just paint your rotors red!!! maybee u missred my post, but cross drilling, and slotting is a waste, it is only cosmetic, totally non funnctional, If you think other wise than ... do some reading bud.. Just beacause everyone does it don't meen crap.... It is cool if you don't believe me, but CD and sloted rotors are no better than solid rotors on a street car. The sloted may, and i say may with strong influence be worth it. THe CDing takes away surface area, and reduces the strength of the rotor. I know that the HIPO cars are coming with em, but it don't mean jack... And by the way, the bikes do it for a tottaly different reason... and that would be weight, if you think of it a bike already has overkill for brakes, they are less than a ourth of the weight of most cars. Preactical on bikes, not cars. The bikes are trying to remove unsprong weight. If cross drilled rotors are not any better than solid, why did I just replace all 4 rotors on Michael Andretti's new 2004 Denali XL? I would think that someone with his experience would know. The reason for cross drilling is heat dissipation and it also cleans your pads and gives the dust an escape path. Maybe you need to do some reading.... And lern how to speel two!!!! maybee=maybe missred=misread funnctional=functional meen=mean sloted=slotted tottaly=totally preactical=practical unsprong=unsprung Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 You really believe that's why he bought them? He told you this stuff? Did I mispell anything? Geez, lighten up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AUTOGUY Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 This is the second Denali I replaced the rotors, pads, and fluid in for Michael. I know for a fact he was happy with the improvement. He told me. He was going to go with the Stillen 14" rotors, but wanted to use the stock 17" wheels in the winter and the 14" rotors required 18" or larger wheels. He runs 22's in the summer. I also installed a Volant CAI and Granatelli MAF on the 2004 Denali. Bryan from PCMFORLESS tuned the PCM a couple weeks ago. He is also putting a Magnaflow cat-back on it. (Dad is the Magnaflow Spokesman) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m396 #00-011 Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 This is the second Denali I replaced the rotors, pads, and fluid in for Michael. I know for a fact he was happy with the improvement. He told me. The fact is, cross drilled or slotted rotors will be NO performance improvement on a street driven SSS. Believe what you want, that's your given right. The rest of us are just trying to save some fellow members a little $$. BTW, the improvement MA felt was in the pads and fluid, not the rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m396 #00-011 Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 Yeah thats true, Jason, but what they don't tell you, is that there isn't enough space for all the slotting it takes to equal the same effects cross-drilled give you. If you watched any of the 24hr of Daytona, not many had slotted rotors, but all had drilled? I believe if you will tune into any of the Nascar road races they run drilled only brakes 9 out of 10 times. All our Panoz cars run both slotted and drilled for the best of both worlds. Both my race bikes, Honda RC51 and CBR954 have drilled only. And my street bikes do as well Your points are well taken, but the confusion is the application. All the applications named above are severe track applications, where out gassing and build-up is a problem, not on the street. Also, they usually change rotors for every race, not something I want to do on the street. For clarification, my definition of "track racer" from the previous post was for a weekend auto crosser and road racers. On the street, you will never see a benefit of either rotor enhancement, it's purely cosmetics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plwtwo Posted February 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 I understand your point, and you're right to a degree. But until you start pushing the limits of the stock brakes you wouldn't need these, but that's what I do, push the limits. I felt the stockers fade a couple times in the mountains, and the heat build up was terrible. These stopped that, they actually perform better after they start heating up, and I haven't noticed any fade at all. I didn't build this truck to go fast in a straight line, heck anyone can do that, I built it to go fast anywhere I take it, and here in N. Georgia we are lucky to have really great roads full of curves. And I use them!!! And these Ap's make a BIG difference when the truck is being pushed to its limits. In fact, I'd say these are as good as the brakes on my '95 S351R Saleen (13"rotors,Saleen 6 piston caliper) that were designed for road racing, by road racers. But you're right they aren't for everyone!!! besides I'll have almost 10 grand in speed upgrades, so I figured 3 for stopping it wasn't bad. Let me give you some insight in where I'm comming from: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaly Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 I did the cheap upgrade with the Bear Eradi +1, crossed drilled and slotted utilizing the stock calipers. I had 3 of 4 rotors warped within 6 weeks. I put the stock rotors back on and left the Hawk pads and the difference was not as noticable from stock. I am now looking for solid 14" rotors to fill the wheel space and use the Bear caliper extension, but I think I am done with putting cross drilled on a truck I haul a 3 ton boat with. I want reliable brakes and no chance of warping. I bet if I went with a full out brake kit this would not have happened. You live and learn BTW, plwtwo nice looking package! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plwtwo Posted February 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 Thanks, Sorry to hear about your rotors..... I've had this same style kit on three different vehicles; a 4wd, a H2 and now the SS, and i never had any problems, knock on wood. The H2's took the most abuse though, and stopping it with a boat behind it was why I did them originally, nothing worse than being pushed through a Red Light. I actually swapped the rotors on my Tahoe with Hawk Pads, and couldn't tell a difference, until I did the Stainless Steel Lines......They are probably the best $ to gain improvement......Gm and their Brake Assist Booster Crap!!!! But it is better than the '99 version. You would "panic" stop with them and the pedal would "flutter" like you were bouncing the wheels or something....they sucked! But that was only on the early '99 thankfully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m396 #00-011 Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 I understand your point, and you're right to a degree. But until you start pushing the limits of the stock brakes you wouldn't need these, but that's what I do, push the limits. I felt the stockers fade a couple times in the mountains, and the heat build up was terrible. These stopped that, they actually perform better after they start heating up, and I haven't noticed any fade at all. I didn't build this truck to go fast in a straight line, heck anyone can do that, I built it to go fast anywhere I take it, and here in N. Georgia we are lucky to have really great roads full of curves. And I use them!!! And these Ap's make a BIG difference when the truck is being pushed to its limits. In fact, I'd say these are as good as the brakes on my '95 S351R Saleen (13"rotors,Saleen 6 piston caliper) that were designed for road racing, by road racers. But you're right they aren't for everyone!!! besides I'll have almost 10 grand in speed upgrades, so I figured 3 for stopping it wasn't bad. Let me give you some insight in where I'm comming from: OK, I'm all for brake upgrades, rotors too! My statement is, your street driven SSS or Saleen for that matter got improved braking from better calipers, pads, lines, fluids, and increased rotor size, the correct way to do it. But the rotors being cross drilled or slotted played little to no part of the improvement, the other factors did. Taked those same rotors you now have, only solid, and you wouldn't be able to tell the difference, even at pushing your limits. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plwtwo Posted February 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 Agreed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m396 #00-011 Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 Agreed! BTW, I'm just jelous, I want those brakes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plwtwo Posted February 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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