keebler85 Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 (edited) I know there are alot of cam questions out there...i have done searching and i found a little help...my mods are in my sig...i am a DD and my future mods will not include FI...at least not now but if i do i will just do it all over again....there are two cams that i am looking at a Comp Cam and a Crower....here is what i have so far...and i know nothing about cams so basic explanations would be nice...what all is needed for these? Crower Cam Cam Part Number=00572=$415 Lifters=66330-16=$231 Springs=68304-16=$78 Retainers=86037-16=$60 Total $784 plus install Comp Cam XR281HR=$415 valve train kit=$556 retainers=$156 springs=?? rods=$186 Ti retainers=$162 new timing chain=?? total $1475?? so the question is....which would be better? i am going with a TBTC since they are cheap...whats a good price to budget for the install of the cam? thanks Edited December 9, 2008 by keebler85 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 I'd go with the Comp Cam: 54-428-11 Go with the 918 springs: 26918-16 Pushrods 7955-16 Gasket kit from GM: 12499228 Use the stock chain unless you have over 100k on it. Only replace it with a stock one if needed. Use the stock retainers and keepers. For the converter, use GM part number 24228708. More stall would make it alot quicker out of the hole, but that depends on what you want to spend and how you want it to drive. The GM TB converter should be good for 100k+ miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebler85 Posted December 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 (edited) ok...i have 67xxx so i guess i will leave it...the gm converter is that the TBTC? or is it just a higher stall? or is it the factory one i have i dont want it to drive hard..i talked to a guy and he said if i have a 3000 stall..then it has to goto 3000 rpms to move then its not going to be a good DD Edited December 9, 2008 by keebler85 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 That number is a TBTC. Should stall to around 2600-2800 in your setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 i dont want it to drive hard..i talked to a guy and he said if i have a 3000 stall..then it has to goto 3000 rpms to move then its not going to be a good DD not true, it will drive under light throttle. its when you flash it, then its way different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebler85 Posted December 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 not true, it will drive under light throttle. its when you flash it, then its way different. with the 2800 stall? does it always have to get up to 2800 for it to take off? and for the cam i came up with 799.96 total sound about right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 with the 2800 stall? does it always have to get up to 2800 for it to take off? and for the cam i came up with 799.96 total sound about right? You do NOT have to get up to 2800 rpm in order to move. I am running a "3400" stall and I can move off the line at just about idle (1000rpms) Now, A standing launch, it will go to 3400rpm++ before it "starts" moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 what krambo said. i have a 4000 stall and can still move at idle, but it slips to 4000 on a full throttle hit from the line. for the most part all my shifts still happen at 3000 around town, 2600- 2800 stall will drive like stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebler85 Posted December 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2008 so normal driving with a TBTC will be just the same even in the gas? would a 3200...when you launch does it feel like alot of torque? or just a hard 1st-2nd shift? like having a shift kit? what would that cam sound like? i want a cam that sounds like the old cars...really aggressive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted December 10, 2008 Report Share Posted December 10, 2008 so normal driving with a TBTC will be just the same even in the gas? would a 3200...when you launch does it feel like alot of torque? or just a hard 1st-2nd shift? like having a shift kit? what would that cam sound like? i want a cam that sounds like the old cars...really aggressive... what are you looking to get out of a cam? better sound or faster ETs. I'm sure the thumper series cams sound great and they offer some better performance but sound doesn't make it fast. What are your goals with this truck? low 14's, mid 13's, great sounding but not so much worried about speed? you also have lifters speced out in your first post, remember you need to pull the heads to change lifters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebler85 Posted December 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2008 (edited) what are you looking to get out of a cam? better sound or faster ETs. I'm sure the thumper series cams sound great and they offer some better performance but sound doesn't make it fast. What are your goals with this truck? low 14's, mid 13's, great sounding but not so much worried about speed? you also have lifters speced out in your first post, remember you need to pull the heads to change lifters i did not know i needed them...zippy never posted anything about them....i am going with the parts that he said above....i am looking for performance....but i want it to sound like i have a cam...i want 13's mid-low...i would be happy.....would those cams above to able to? should heads be put in then as well? Edited December 10, 2008 by keebler85 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted December 10, 2008 Report Share Posted December 10, 2008 you do not need the lifters, i just saw you had them listed and wanted to remind you about pulling the heads to do them. That caught me off guard when i looked into doing lifters. only in my opinion to get mid to low 13's your going to need a higher stall to go with that cam, 3200-3400. Heads would be a huge help to get there. I'm not sure if anyone is running mid to low 13's with out heads on a awd. if you check the track times and the mods guys have it would give you an idea of what to expect. it did however take me heads and a slightly smaller cam then the one zippy said to get to mid 13's with a 2600-2800 stall. I'm not sure what your looking for on sound, my cam is slightly smaller and you can tell it's cammed but you'd have to ask zippy, supersub or fast4popper if they think its "aggressive" sounding. that one is also a 112lsa where mine is a 113 so i believe it will "lope" a little more as well. One of these days i'll take a sound clip of my truck and post it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebler85 Posted December 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2008 ok even high 13's would be fine...i want to keep the tbtc that zippy cam....and the parts with it...what heads would be good...website please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted December 11, 2008 Report Share Posted December 11, 2008 high 13's you may not need heads, i'm pretty sure there a couple of guys here running high 13's with out heads. My heads are TEA(total engine airflow) stage 2.5 317 casting. They have been great so far and flow some of the best numbers i have seen for 317 heads. The other company I'm looking at right now is texas speed. If you want to go all out with heads get aftermarket ones like trick flow or AFR and they already have smaller chambers on them for more compression. Stick with Zippy, and he'll get you where you want to be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted December 11, 2008 Report Share Posted December 11, 2008 A standing launch, it will go to 3400rpm++ before it "starts" moving. f'n moving! You have to drive a stalled car to see what it feels like. You can have the same HP/engine/bla bla and a converter can drop off .5sec off your time. I was running 14.2 with cam only, no headers, and a stock trans I could have been good into the 13's with a converter and my trans being beefed up. do what zippy says IMO it sounds like you should 1. get your trans-shift kit /converter 2. do the cam swap. 3. could use some injectors, maybe flex fuel ones if this is your only set of mods 4. Good tuning in person (this is key) 5. go run 13.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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