zaxss Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) Hey guys. I know that I should have done more research on this but I didn't and now I need to fix it so I can drive to work tomorrow. I am in the process of doing a tranny filter and fluid change. I have taken all the bolts out and now see that it won't just come out. What ever the bracket and arm on the driver side keeps it from just coming down. How do I get around this? I have unbolted the tranny mount and jacked up the transfer case but it still won't come out. Any help would be appreciated since I have to get it going for tomorrow. Btw the truck is a 03 completely stock. Thanks a bunch......Zac Edited January 11, 2009 by Zaxss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) Are you talking about the rear crossmember that the transmission mount is on? If so, there are two large bolts/nuts on each end that attach that crossmember to the frame.....or do you mean the shift linkage and arm? Edited January 11, 2009 by Fireman31 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaxss Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) It's the shift linkage since it connects up in the transmission. It's the bracket that that bolts to that is in the way. Edited January 11, 2009 by Zaxss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Here's the pan gasket/filter replacement instructions according to AllData...... Automatic Transmission Fluid/Filter Replacement Removal Procedure Caution: When the transmission is at operating temperatures, take necessary precautions when removing the drain plug, to avoid being burned by draining fluid. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle. Place a drain pan under the transmission oil pan. Remove the oil pan drain plug, if equipped. If necessary, remove the bolts and position aside the range selector cable bracket for clearance while lowering the pan. It is not necessary to remove the cable from the lever or bracket. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and sides of the pan only. Loosen the rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns . Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet in order to loosen the pan to allow the fluid to drain. Remove the remaining oil pan bolts. Remove the oil pan and the gasket. Grasp firmly while pulling down with a twisting motion in order to remove the filter. Remove and discard the filter seal. The filter seal may be stuck in the pump; if necessary, carefully use pliers or another suitable tool to remove the seal. Inspect the fluid color. Inspect the filter. Pry the metal crimping away from the top of the filter and pull apart. The filter may contain the following evidence for root cause diagnosis: Clutch material Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear Steel particles Clean the transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and air dry. You must remove all traces of the old gasket material. Installation Procedure Coat the NEW filter seal with automatic transmission fluid. Install the NEW filter seal into the transmission case. Tap the seal into place using a suitable size socket. Install the NEW filter. Install the oil pan and NEW gasket. Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts alternately and evenly to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.) . Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. If previously removed, install the range selector cable bracket and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) . Apply a small amount of sealant GM P/N 12346004 (Canadian P/N 10953480), or equivalent to the threads of the oil pan drain plug, if equipped. Install the oil pan drain plug, if equipped. Tighten the plug to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.) . Lower the vehicle. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON® III transmission fluid. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure and Fluid Capacity Specifications. Check the COLD fluid level reading for initial fill only. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaxss Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Holy crap that's a lot of info. Thanks but I still don't see how i'm going to get those bolts on the range selector cable bracket. I guess i'll go back out and look into that. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony-CA Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Unbolt the two shifter linkage bracket bolts. I believe its a Torx 45. If you feel brave you can always bend the bracket back with a pry bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Fast SS Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Why do you have to do all that just to change the filter? It seems that it would be able to just pull out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaxss Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) I never could get it out. I ended up putting the old filter back in place and putting everything back together. I at least got the fluid changed. I don't see why it was designed like that. The torx bolts are impossible to get to because of the drive shaft. It was getting hung up on my exhaust where it runs from the divers side over to the passengers side. If it was only a inch and a half back farther I think it would have dropped right out. I used to think I could work on this truck but after 4 hours changing plugs a few months back and 5 hours under it yesterday I think I'm taking it somewhere from now on. Edited January 12, 2009 by Zaxss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) Yeah whoever the genious was that decided to use the Torx fasteners there needs to be fired; not just because they are Torx, but those two fasteners are CRAPPY metal and super soft and round-out easily, I chewed one up with a torx wrench so bad that after the transmission was out on the ground we had to get medieval with it and remove with a chisel. I HATE cheap hardware, it *pisses* me off no end. Next time you get under the truck, drop the front u-joint to make more room for your hand, undo the retainer clip & move the shifter cable out of the way, and remove the torx fasteners from the shifter bracket. Change the fluid, filter, and pan gasket. On reassembly, rather than re-use the torx bolts prepare for the future by replacing them with 2 of the same exact bolts that hold the pan in place (13mm head). If you are feeling a little redneck then go ahead and put the bracket in a bench vise and beat it out a few degrees with a BFH but not so much as to interfere with the front driveshaft (that driveshaft needs 1/4" minimum clearance). Other ATF change hints - The filter has a neck that fits up into the pump, and it is sealed deep in the pump body by a large rubber bushing - after removing the filter, go back in to the pump orifice with a screwdriver or pick tool or needle-nosed pliers and make sure you get the old rubber gasket out, and use the new rubber bushing provided with the filter. The rubber does not last long in the hot transmission, and can develop a tear or crack, and if this happens you will loose prime on the transmission pump and long story short you will burn-up the pump. Yes fishing this rubber washer out is a PITA and you get tranny fluid in your hair... Pan Flange Bolts - everybody gets way too manly with the bolts that hold on the transmission pan; all that is necessary is to tighten the bolts using your fingers and a socket (no rachet or wrench), we're talking like 1-2 ft lbs here. After you have tightened all the bolts as best as you can with the socket using your bare fingers, THEN go ahead and use a rachet to put another 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolts in an alternating/star pattern. Shoot the entire flange area with spray brake cleaner and rag dry, and after your first drive *if* there is a little weep of fluid somewhere (I've never had it happen but hey it's possible) then and only then go ahead and tighten the offending 2-3 bolts in that area another 1/4-turn to arrest the leak. This guarantees that the pan is never damaged from overtightening (warpage) and that the gasket does not get murdered either. And if you want to upgrade your pan, install the Corvette C5 sumped pan and matching filter, available from the dealer as PN 24208593 (pan) and 24208574 (filter kit) for about $145 bones; I felt an improved launch (swear to god!) and it is better AND cheaper than the aftermarket pans out there because it is actually sumped. Mr. P. Edited January 12, 2009 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoore Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 (edited) I too have tried to remove the pan on a 4X4 only to be stuck when I could not get the shifter braket out of my way. The "torx" head bolts are on the top? Could not see them and had no idea how to get them out. Exhaust and drive shaft are in the way. I actually lossened the u joint put it did not budge and I did not what to hammer on a good joint. Any other clues. I have the filter put if it is not possible for me to change the filter and flush the tranny via cooling hose into a bucket and adding as I go I will find a shop to flush the tranny. I have 40000 miles now and want to avoid problems by keeping the fluid fresh. Jim Edited October 11, 2009 by jmoore (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 (edited) I too have tried to remove the pan on a 4X4 only to be stuck when I could not get the shifter braket out of my way. The "torx" head bolts are on the top? Could not see them and had no idea how to get them out. Exhaust and drive shaft are in the way. I actually lossened the u joint put it did not budge and I did not what to hammer on a good joint. Any other clues. I have the filter put if it is not possible for me to change the filter and flush the tranny via cooling hose into a bucket and adding as I go I will find a shop to flush the tranny. I have 40000 miles now and want to avoid problems by keeping the fluid fresh. Jim Yup the torx bolts are on the top-side of the shifter cable bracket; if you snake your hand up there and feel your way up the bracket you will find/feel the bolts, the rear one is easier to reach, the front bolt is behind the electrical connectors to the prindle switch Now after doing the job 20 times I have discovered a couple places to snake my hand & a ratchet up there to attack these two bolts, but it's a tight fit and I only get away with it because I don't have gorilla-sized hands. Front U-joint - after removing the caps, you insert a big pry tool into the front of the joint, and pry the driveline/joint backwards to unseat it from its saddle. It IS possible to pry the shifter cable bracket out enough to get the pan to drop free, but the bracket material is THICK and you need a manly pry tool to budge it - if you attempt this, be careful what you are prying against, you don't want to damage the transmission case. I have done this, but would not recommend it; I used a big-assed crescent wrench to grab the bracket and pulled sideways. Flushing the transmission - it's a good idea, I've dont that before too. Mr. P. Edited October 11, 2009 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvyz71 Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 Question, how does the C5 sumped pan compare to the regular deep pans found on the z71 silverados. I ended up picking up a sumped pan, but looking at it and the deep pan that is already on the truck, it doesn't look like there is a whole lot of difference. Are the stock SS pans shallow pans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 Question, how does the C5 sumped pan compare to the regular deep pans found on the z71 silverados. I ended up picking up a sumped pan, but looking at it and the deep pan that is already on the truck, it doesn't look like there is a whole lot of difference. Are the stock SS pans shallow pans? all gm automatic trucks from 99-current 4L60/65 trucks all have the deep pan. The Z71 is no different. I personally don't see the point in the vette pan, other than to say you have a vette pan... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 On the trucks that I've had a problem with getting the torx bolts out I've just bent the bracket out of the way far enough to get the pan down and then re-bent it back into place. You'll still need to pull the front driveshaft down from the front diff to push it out of the way. I'd also recomend pulling the shifter cable out first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6.0vortech Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Ive got the summit racing pan on mine it's sweet. And filled with B&M trickshift fluid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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