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Transmission Temperature


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Here is what Frank at Performabuilt says,this guy knows trannies.

Trans temps- This question gets ask a lot. What’s TOO HOT? Well ideally you want you average temp to stay under 190 degrees however I would not get to concerned till the temps get at and or over 230 degrees. Heat can damage a trans but with the exception of extreme heat 250 or higher this damage is a long term killer by breaking down fluid and causing rubber seals to harden and break.

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I don't mean to hijack this post but its gotten me thinking.

 

I've noticed my tranny temps rise recently as well with no load. I'm running bone stock. I havent paid attention to exactly how high the temps have gotten in stop and go traffic but I know it hasnt been above 200. Is it a good idea to do a larger trans cooler even on stock trucks? It's not my DD but I want to be sure I'm doing the right thing by my truck.

If you have the stock torque converter the transmission temps should never get outta hand - the OEM converter is so tight, it's made specifically to not allow much slippage so the wimpy external ATF cooler is plenty. If you are seeing transmission temps creep on you over long term use it can be a sign that the 3-4 clutch pack is slipping on you and a little glazed - the only way to verify this short of teardown is to smell the ATF as well as crack open the transmission filter and examine it for clutch pack debris. Do not over-react, it is also very normal for ATF to run a bit warmer in the summer months (duh!) but my truck stock never had an ATF temp over 135 and that was in the Central Texas heat, if you are regularly seeing ATF temps over 180 especially at night when it's cool outside -and- the shifts are not as crisp as they should be and you have lots of mileage or abuse on the 4L60 then all that evidence could be a sign it is time to have the frictions replaced in it.

 

Mr. P.

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If you have the stock torque converter the transmission temps should never get outta hand - the OEM converter is so tight, it's made specifically to not allow much slippage so the wimpy external ATF cooler is plenty. If you are seeing transmission temps creep on you over long term use it can be a sign that the 3-4 clutch pack is slipping on you and a little glazed - the only way to verify this short of teardown is to smell the ATF as well as crack open the transmission filter and examine it for clutch pack debris. Do not over-react, it is also very normal for ATF to run a bit warmer in the summer months (duh!) but my truck stock never had an ATF temp over 135 and that was in the Central Texas heat, if you are regularly seeing ATF temps over 180 especially at night when it's cool outside -and- the shifts are not as crisp as they should be and you have lots of mileage or abuse on the 4L60 then all that evidence could be a sign it is time to have the frictions replaced in it.

 

Mr. P.

 

Thanks Mr. P. I'll have to monitor more closely. I havent driven her in a week so I have no hard evidence of what the actual higher temps were. I only know that I have noticed them creep when I'm in stop and go traffic and the heat creeps into the 80's here in Chicagoland. I can say that I'm going to be towing a trailor and 2 bikes more regularly now that I have my hitch. I want to be sure that I'm not going to be overheating the tranny and possibly paying for one in the future. If I can spend 200$ now to save me 2500$ later then I'm all for it.

 

Since I'm going to be towing then would you suggest a larger cooler? Also since I live in/near Chicago (and it's cold winter's) should i purchase a cooler w/a bypass? Forgive me for beating you up but what exactly does the bypass do?

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I am with all these guys, break down and go with the TruCool Max, it is huge and works extremely well. You wont spend more than $150 or so and it dwarfs the silly little factory cooler. In addition to this, there are many great "how-to's" on here so it makes the install a no-brainer. :cheers::chevy:

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Thanks Mr. P. I'll have to monitor more closely. I havent driven her in a week so I have no hard evidence of what the actual higher temps were. I only know that I have noticed them creep when I'm in stop and go traffic and the heat creeps into the 80's here in Chicagoland. I can say that I'm going to be towing a trailor and 2 bikes more regularly now that I have my hitch. I want to be sure that I'm not going to be overheating the tranny and possibly paying for one in the future. If I can spend 200$ now to save me 2500$ later then I'm all for it.

 

Since I'm going to be towing then would you suggest a larger cooler? Also since I live in/near Chicago (and it's cold winter's) should i purchase a cooler w/a bypass? Forgive me for beating you up but what exactly does the bypass do?

TCMax is a damned good cooler, two thumbs WAY up. Save the money and don't get the one with the thermostat. The thermostat is a bitmettalic spring controlled valve that keeps the ATF above 180-degrees, and the bypass valve is a great idea but the one that comes with the TCMax is set way too high (180-degrees) so don't use it. If they had it adjustable or set to 160-degrees then my recommendation would be different...

 

Mr. P.

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Relocate that heat exchanger down low, behind the front bumper ($30); that alone will immediately cut 20-degrees off your normal ATF temps, and your A/C will be colder in the cab too. I made a post on this last week with a sketch...

 

Mr. P. :)

 

Anyone know which post this is by chance? I tried to look for it but can't seem to find it. I'm thinking I need to do this to help my A/C this summer here in Cali :P

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What is the difference between the bypass cold thing or not? Is the tru cool fine for winter driving?

The bypass is a thermostat - if you install it, your ATF will never be below 180-degrees; that's too hot for me and I would run without it. The thermostat is a great idea, but the one included with the TCMax is too hot. In the northern states in the winter if you cannot get the ATF temps up enough then cover a piece of the cooler with a bit of tin to bring the temp up, or get the 12" x 12" x 1" cooler - in the southern states it is warm enough to run the TCMax open all year round.

 

Mr. P.

Edited by Mr. P. (see edit history)
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Thanks for the tips Dan and Steve. I've got get me one when I get working again. Here in Vegas, its been getting into the 100's, 106 the other day, and my temp got up to 200*, but never went past that. Plus I smelled just a hint of clutch burning. I was in stop and go traffic as well, but with no load. I checked the fluid, and it seemed ok with no burnt smell or discoloration. Does the tune have anything to do with it? Not saying I have a bad tune, cause I love my tune. Just wondering if it makes run higher.

Edited by 1 Fast SS (see edit history)
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Thanks for the tips Dan and Steve. I've got get me one when I get working again. Here in Vegas, its been getting into the 100's, 106 the other day, and my temp got up to 200*, but never went past that. Plus I smelled just a hint of clutch burning. I was in stop and go traffic as well, but with no load. I checked the fluid, and it seemed ok with no burnt smell or discoloration. Does the tune have anything to do with it? Not saying I have a bad tune, cause I love my tune. Just wondering if it makes run higher.

Stop-and-go in slow traffic is brutal on an automatic transmission, in fact it's the worst, it ranks right up there with extended WOT in 4th; that kind of driving will show just how much or little cooling ability the vehicle has. Especially in LV you need all the cooling help you can get.

 

AFA the tune, Yes a tune can affect ATF temps, but more often than not it wil lbe in an indirect way.

 

We have found the best answer to be leaving the automatic transmission parameters completely stock except:

* if you have installed a shift kit, lowering the shift timing table (0.2 - 0.3 secs between shifts, or just 0 all the way across the table)

* reducing/eliminating torque management (we leave a little bit in, not enough to slow the truck down but enough to take the edge off)

* raise/lower shift-points to tailor to your converter's stall behavior

 

Leave all other transmission parameters factory, ESPECIALLY the line pressure tables.

 

Mr. P.

Edited by Mr. P. (see edit history)
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