cokedrvrbjw Posted July 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2004 I think they should get on the horse and get a set ready for the lowered guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quickmedic1 Posted July 18, 2004 Report Share Posted July 18, 2004 I'm not an expert here but I think that shortening the links should allow them to work for a lowered application. Has anyone else tried this? Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSilverado60 Posted July 19, 2004 Report Share Posted July 19, 2004 Shortening the links should take care of it for the lowered trucks. Whats the deadline for the GP? And is the price still $450? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
styleandspeed Posted July 21, 2004 Report Share Posted July 21, 2004 you can always just buy shorter links out of summit or jegs for pretty cheap ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cokedrvrbjw Posted August 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 TBYRNE...I held off on the swaybar gp because I planned on dropping the SS, is there any chance they will end up coming out with a set for a lowered SS?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbyrne Posted August 4, 2004 Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 Whats the deadline for the GP? And is the price still $450? The GP ended on June 18th. cokedrvrbjw: I'll let you know if there are any plans for a set for a lowered SS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cokedrvrbjw Posted August 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
styleandspeed Posted August 4, 2004 Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 Hellwig makes some that they say would work for lowered trucks(up to 4 inches I think). You can also buy them individually if you just want to do the rear, and not spare the extra expense for the front. They are just a hair smaller than the hotchkis, but are also quite a bit cheaper. part # for the lowered front(up to 3 inches) is: 7632 Price from summit $ $150.39 Part # for the stock height front is: 7633 Price from summit $153.69 Part# for the rear(stock height or lowered) is: 7634 Price from summit $162.39 If you want to buy these from summit add "hel-" in front of the part # that is listed above. You can actually get them a little cheaper through JC whitney though(not sure about shipping costs through JC whitney). I had one of the rears on my 96 chevy 2wd, it worked great, and was an easy install. PS. Just called Hellwig, and you don't have to drill the frame, or drop the gastank for their rear anti sway bar like you have to do with the Hotchkis. Aaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBSS Posted August 4, 2004 Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 The fact that the rear bar is the same for stock height as for a lowered application tells me they don't know what they're doing. The 'dog bones' in the back have to be near-perfect length to avoid preloading the rear bar, which is extremely important. Plus the Hellwigs are solid which actually makes them weaker and less stiff than a hollow bar. Price in this instance is a direct indicator of quality. I would stay away from the Hellwigs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quickmedic1 Posted August 4, 2004 Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 Be careful with the Helwig bars. I think I saw som pics posted showing the rear bars mounting backwards compared to the Hotchkis rear bar. Some have said this can cause some fit problems with the exhausts on some trucks. Please search past posts. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.ph...indpost&p=61744 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m396 #00-011 Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 Plus the Hellwigs are solid which actually makes them weaker and less stiff than a hollow bar. How does this work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 Plus the Hellwigs are solid which actually makes them weaker and less stiff than a hollow bar. How does this work? Hollow bars make them stronger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
styleandspeed Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 The rear swaybars from hellwig have adjustable endlinks so that is why they have the same one for stock height as for a lowered application. The front do not have adjustable endlinks hence the different part #'s. Also, a hollow bar is NOT stronger than a solid bar of the same material. The hollow Hotchkis bars are hollow for weight savings, and they are still stronger than stock because they are made out of better material. They aren't stronger than stock because they are hollow. I also am not going to run a dual exhaust out of the back of my truck so I don't have to worry about if they are going to cause a problem with exhaust. But, that is me. Since I bought the SS I am going to keep a stock looking side exhaust if I get one, not get an exhaust that will look like every other redneck with a ranch truck. I also like the way that the sway bar mounts because it turns an at least 3 hour job to a 1 hour job. Or am I incorrect with the mounting, and will it get in the way of a stock exhaust? Aaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBSS Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 Didn't know about the end links. Different attachment points would make the rear bar adjustable, which would be necessary for various ride heights. This is good, but also makes me wonder about how solid the link connections are. Since the links are fixed by hardware, this could present a point of flex or play in the setup, which is not desired. Regarding solid bars being weaker than hollow bars, I'll take a shot at explaining it, though I'm not an engineer, so please bear with me. Though counter-intuitive at first, it makes sense once you understand the principles. A solid bar when twisted only has to overcome one static stress point in order to lose its integrity, which is the actual center of the bar. Once the center of the bar begins twisting, the entire bar is much easier to continue twisting. A hollow bar, on the other hand, has to overcome static stress on four surfaces in order to begin flexion - outside top, inside top, inside bottom, and outside bottom. It is much, much more difficult to twist a hollow bar because of the multiple barriers to flexion. If any of you are old enough to remember videos of bodybuilders bending bars on the beach, please note that all the bars they used were solid, for this reason - it is much easier to bend a solid bar than it is a hollow bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m396 #00-011 Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 A solid bar when twisted only has to overcome one static stress point in order to lose its integrity, which is the actual center of the bar. Once the center of the bar begins twisting, the entire bar is much easier to continue twisting. A hollow bar, on the other hand, has to overcome static stress on four surfaces in order to begin flexion - outside top, inside top, inside bottom, and outside bottom. It is much, much more difficult to twist a hollow bar because of the multiple barriers to flexion. Thanks, it was always explained to me that hollow bars were hollow for weight savings only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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