Awd 4 Link

[jlight]

So far I have tried McGoofy's spindles and lowering shackles with shims and my AWD SSS did not perform as well as I hoped. I then swapped the rear kit with Hotchkis lowering leafsprings and the ride is actually improved albeit stiff. Ultimately, I want the beast low! Since it is an AWD drivetrain I realize some fab steps must be implemented. I want to know what is all required to do a slammed air kit (not like the brat kid from an older video on this site). What is the overall lifespan of the 4 link set-up and c-notch? What would be a price range to consider? Thanks guys.

[Bear]

Here is a good write up to a auto leveling 4-link system with an incorporated watt's link. He built the system himself as a bolt-on, of course his fabrication skills are beyond excellent. However it should give you some ideas, just disregard his truck being a Quadrasteer, as that part is irrelevant to your goal.

 

http://www.denalitrucks.com/forum/viewtopi...f=5&t=16877

[jlight]

Here is a good write up to a auto leveling 4-link system with an incorporated watt's link. He built the system himself as a bolt-on, of course his fabrication skills are beyond excellent. However it should give you some ideas, just disregard his truck being a Quadrasteer, as that part is irrelevant to your goal.

 

http://www.denalitrucks.com/forum/viewtopi...f=5&t=16877

 

 

Hey thanks for the link and the response! He does have some sick custom fab skills

[Punisher]

So far I have tried McGoofy's spindles and lowering shackles with shims and my AWD SSS did not perform as well as I hoped. I then swapped the rear kit with Hotchkis lowering leafsprings and the ride is actually improved albeit stiff. Ultimately, I want the beast low! Since it is an AWD drivetrain I realize some fab steps must be implemented. I want to know what is all required to do a slammed air kit (not like the brat kid from an older video on this site). What is the overall lifespan of the 4 link set-up and c-notch? What would be a price range to consider? Thanks guys.

 

C-Notch is strong but depending how low you want to go you may want to consider a step-notch, its much stronger and allows for a large range of ride heights. If you are doing bags then you want to pick a set driving ride height so you don't have intense alignment issues so you will need an electronic controller and module. New upper and lower control arms will be a pretty pricey as well.

 

Lifespan of 4 Links and C-notches or step notches aren't what you want to be worried about. If you do it right it will last the life of the truck. What you will worry about is the air bags, compressor, and controllers.

[jlight]

C-Notch is strong but depending how low you want to go you may want to consider a step-notch, its much stronger and allows for a large range of ride heights. If you are doing bags then you want to pick a set driving ride height so you don't have intense alignment issues so you will need an electronic controller and module. New upper and lower control arms will be a pretty pricey as well.

 

Lifespan of 4 Links and C-notches or step notches aren't what you want to be worried about. If you do it right it will last the life of the truck. What you will worry about is the air bags, compressor, and controllers.

 

After looking up some more info on the step notch, I think you're def right. For the long term- it looks much better. I'm not looking to drag my frame- I'm looking to get the tires tucked under the fenders a bit. I'm not 100% on doing this now, I am just looking at all that is needed and the long-term durability of each lowering option. I hope more ideas keep coming!

[sierra ss]

Here is a good write up to a auto leveling 4-link system with an incorporated watt's link. He built the system himself as a bolt-on, of course his fabrication skills are beyond excellent. However it should give you some ideas, just disregard his truck being a Quadrasteer, as that part is irrelevant to your goal.

 

http://www.denalitrucks.com/forum/viewtopi...f=5&t=16877

 

 

Looks like a good one for me.

[rudy91040]

If you do go with a 4 link, I'd suggest going with a triangulated 4 link. You'll have less unsprung weight than a straight 4 link with a watts linkage and less moving parts. There's also some belief that a triangulated 4 link handles better than a straight 4 link.