Stock Timing Set

[Fireman31]

Dan, i'm not trying to spend your money I just think for the price and peace of mine replacing the timing chain and sprockets isn't that much. Going with the stock rockers is a great idea. They are lighter and if you do the bearing upgrade you will have a bulletproof valve train. Are you doing the heads at the same time? If you are, are you keeping the same thickness head gasskets? are the heads milled? These are things to think about cause of the lifter preload. If anything changes you might need to change the pushrod length. When are you planing to do this swap? Sounds like a good time I want in on the install. Harland Sharp Bearing Upgrade There are many fast cars with this upgrade.

 

Thanks for the input Rob, I am going to check into my options for sure as far as timing sets go. As far as the heads go, I am sticking with the stock heads for now, just upgrading the springs.......eventually, waaaaaaay down the road i'll send those junkyard 317's off to Richard at WCCH, but not anytime soon. The bearing upgrade looks good, but it isn't in the budget as of right now, I think i'll be fine with the stockers. Keep your eyes open for an install party, since the cam will be going in sometime before summer.

 

 

Lingenfelter has a timing chain that will work with your stock gears, that lists for $49.95.

Part Number: SD3SR602 The good thing about this chain, besides supposedly being better than the factory chains, is you wont have to worry about spacing the oil pump forward and possibly running into cover interference issues and/or placing the pick-up tube in any bind, which could cause a leaking o-ring. I know people do this all the time (allot also end up with leaking o-rings), but I would feel better aligning the tube by slotting the mounting hole rather than trying bend the tube any, but you would need the pan off to do that.

 

 

Pulled from their site:

 

The IWIS heavy duty timing chain for LS1, LS6 or LS2, Gen III and Gen IV GM engines. This chain is more durable than the factory and most after market chains.

 

 

Thanks, i'll have to check into this as well.

[12'SROCK]

Dan, i'm not trying to spend your money I just think for the price and peace of mine replacing the timing chain and sprockets isn't that much. Going with the stock rockers is a great idea. They are lighter and if you do the bearing upgrade you will have a bulletproof valve train. Are you doing the heads at the same time? If you are, are you keeping the same thickness head gasskets? are the heads milled? These are things to think about cause of the lifter preload. If anything changes you might need to change the pushrod length. When are you planing to do this swap? Sounds like a good time I want in on the install. Harland Sharp Bearing Upgrade There are many fast cars with this upgrade.

 

 

Dan if you go aftermarket heads (TF, AFR..) you can't use stock rockers you need rollor tip rockers. Also the stock ones are not lighter than the HS or YT. Get some and weigh them as a whole and at the tip and you will see what I am talking about. The are lighter than stock. Also the stock rockers can still have side to side movement and the HS or YT dont due to the fact that they have a tie bar to keep them in place and eliminate any side to side movement.

[blackbeast ss]

Dan, i'm not trying to spend your money I just think for the price and peace of mine replacing the timing chain and sprockets isn't that much. Going with the stock rockers is a great idea. They are lighter and if you do the bearing upgrade you will have a bulletproof valve train. Are you doing the heads at the same time? If you are, are you keeping the same thickness head gasskets? are the heads milled? These are things to think about cause of the lifter preload. If anything changes you might need to change the pushrod length. When are you planing to do this swap? Sounds like a good time I want in on the install. Harland Sharp Bearing Upgrade There are many fast cars with this upgrade.

i disagree!!....i weight mine when i did my swap and the harlandsharp are LIGHTER than stock, were are you getting this info from?..have you weight them?? yeah the bearing upgrade is good over stock but for $280 you can find some used harland sharp 1.7s ROLLER TIP ROCKERS in exelante shape or you can get some new ones for 80 dollars more, for me that's a no brainer.What i didn't like from the stock rockers is their not roller tip but what really scared me was when i did my cam swap i used the stock rocker for about 6 months and once i had everything bolted on and rockers torqued to spec i was able to push the rocker side to side and almost of the valve stem

and with the harland sharp rockers this is impossible because they put a steel shaft between two rocker witch prevents them from shifting side to side,the oil distribution its way better on the harland sharp as they shoot the the oil straight to the bearing instead of shooting the oil to the valve cover like the stock Rockers im not trying to start shit just puting my $.02

 

i only wish they would make a clear valve cover so these bad ass rockers would be visable,they look fu***** gorgeous sitting on the valvetrain

[Fireman31]

Dan if you go aftermarket heads (TF, AFR..) you can't use stock rockers you need rollor tip rockers. Also the stock ones are not lighter than the HS or YT. Get some and weigh them as a whole and at the tip and you will see what I am talking about. The are lighter than stock. Also the stock rockers can still have side to side movement and the HS or YT dont due to the fact that they have a tie bar to keep them in place and eliminate any side to side movement.

 

Heads are staying stock for now, and I do plan on upgrading the rockers whenever my bank account decides I can do the heads. For now i'll stay with the stockers....Brian, you are running the stockers right?

 

I am trying to stay within my budget........

[12'SROCK]

Heads are staying stock for now, and I do plan on upgrading the rockers whenever my bank account decides I can do the heads. For now i'll stay with the stockers....Brian, you are running the stockers right?

 

I am trying to stay within my budget........

 

 

Oh I see.. Well at least you are getting the Titanium retainers wich weigh 4g VS stock steel 8g. Also coming from experiance you will be much happier with the 9.5" converter 3200+..... I still cant belive how much better the truck feels with my 3600

[Fireman31]

Oh I see.. Well at least you are getting the Titanium retainers wich weigh 4g VS stock steel 8g. Also coming from experiance you will be much happier with the 9.5" converter 3200+..... I still cant belive how much better the truck feels with my 3600

 

Yeah I am trying to do this for under $1500, 2 truck payments, college loan, rent, and credit cards have their priorities LOL. Eventually i'll upgrade the stall, gonna see how the current setup does first.......taking it slow, 1 step at a time, you know how it is Art, you've already been there with your setup.

[12'SROCK]

Yeah I am trying to do this for under $1500, 2 truck payments, college loan, rent, and credit cards have their priorities LOL. Eventually i'll upgrade the stall, gonna see how the current setup does first.......taking it slow, 1 step at a time, you know how it is Art, you've already been there with your setup.

 

 

Yeah I hear ya.. Well good luck with the out come and be sure to post your results!

[2bfast]

Brian, you are running the stockers right?

 

Yes I am......for now

 

I still cant belive how much better the truck feels with my 3600

 

+1 my converter made a big difference as well. Hopefully my trans holds up when I start hittin the squeeze

Edited January 29, 2010 by 2BFAST (see edit history)

[malibutwins]

I belive I got the rocker info off of ls1 tech. I could be wrong but there is a lot of very fast and reliable setups on there using the stock rockers. Sorry Dan if the info I gave you was wrong. If your going to spend any money on rocker arms go with yt of jesel. I have never had a failure with the jesel's on my bbc. They are one of the best rockers bar none. pricy though. For your setup Dan You will be fine.

 

This is a quote from a engine builder on ls1 tech..... "We use the stock rocker arms on our shop car engine 7800rpm shift points and 1154rwhp" So Dan you should be fine. Also they say that the gains are only wirth 2-4 hp with yt not a big gain for the $$$$$

Edited January 29, 2010 by malibutwins (see edit history)

[12'SROCK]

I belive I got the rocker info off of ls1 tech. I could be wrong but there is a lot of very fast and reliable setups on there using the stock rockers. Sorry Dan if the info I gave you was wrong. If your going to spend any money on rocker arms go with yt of jesel. I have never had a failure with the jesel's on my bbc. They are one of the best rockers bar none. pricy though. For your setup Dan You will be fine.

 

This is a quote from a engine builder on ls1 tech..... "We use the stock rocker arms on our shop car engine 7800rpm shift points and 1154rwhp" So Dan you should be fine. Also they say that the gains are only wirth 2-4 hp with yt not a big gain for the $$$$$

 

Yeah Jesel rockers are hands down the best and boy are they pricey but well worth it if its in your budget!

 

 

Also in my book every little HP/TQ gain you can get adds up in the big end

[2bfast]

Both are basically in the right. Its half dozen and one to another. If you have the money to drop on new rockers, do it. If you dont, the stocker will work just fine.

 

The end

[12'SROCK]

[misterp]

Dan - In my experience, most chain stretch happens in the first 30K-miles; from that point forward it will continue to stretch but at a much slower rate. The rate of chain stretch also depends on how heavy the springs are in the valvetrain, so super-heavy rate springs may wear out a chain in 40-50K rather than 80-100K, and in those cases (like running a .650+ lift cam) it is normal to replace springs & chain at 50-60K.

 

Other consideration - LS2 chain and sprocket are CHEAP, and even though the 'need' to replace the chain is marginal, I would anywas because if not now you will be back in the motor in 30-40K to do it later. So, being it's so cheap I would do it now. Replace the chain and top sprocket, reuse the existing crank sprocket. Don't forget the new oil pump pickup O-Ring and crank bolt also. Altogether chain, top sprocket, bolt, o-ring is about $75-90 at the dealer.

 

OH - other topics - if you want badass rockers then get the stock ones where the trunion rollers have been replaced with bushings. And unless you are buzzing to 8-grand I would not bother with the titanium retainers, get quality high-strength tool steel ones, they are tons stronger but only a couple grams heavier. The single most important item to replace IMO is PUSHRODS, get the heaviest ones you can afford (3/8" thickwall??) and great springs; that will assure absolute accuracy of valvetrain dynamics.

 

Mr. P.

Edited January 29, 2010 by Mr. P. (see edit history)

[malibutwins]

[04CHASE]

are you stuck on 918's? i know they have a revised version and i know dual springs have more pressures but dual springs give me more piece of mind . just saw a gto with 50k drop a valve due to a 918 over at phils(caddypimpin) house yesterday . dual springs ftw. timing set swap would depend on mileage and vavletrain upgrades to decide if i were going to go new.