VMAX Hunter Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 i have a 06 vmax 4x4 with intake, lt's, 3" exhaust into flowmaster 40's, 160 t/stat, efi live tune. i have used standard 5w 30 peisoil for the entire life of the truck (83,000). What do yall use what do yall think is best. i will be replacing plugs and wires and also wonder what is best (part numbers would be great) and are the flowmasters hurting me that bad. any other simple things that anyone would recommend would be greatly appreciated Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordmagg Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) 5w-30 Mobil 1 oil, K&N filters(oil and air), NGK plugs, and Granatelli plug wires here...theres alot to choose from out there. It really comes down to what you want to spend your $ on and what you'll be happy with. Any way you go, enjoy the blood, sweat, and tears along the way. Edited January 12, 2011 by BlackUtSSS (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawks Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 i have a 06 vmax 4x4 with intake, lt's, 3" exhaust into flowmaster 40's, 160 t/stat, efi live tune. i have used standard 5w 30 peisoil for the entire life of the truck (83,000). What do yall use what do yall think is best. i will be replacing plugs and wires and also wonder what is best (part numbers would be great) and are the flowmasters hurting me that bad. any other simple things that anyone would recommend would be greatly appreciated Thanks Don't know about yours not really sure what your Vmax has in it, but I can tell you right off hand that I will never put a flowmaster on my truck again. Noticed I said again. I had one installed on the truck and I could tell as soon as I drove off the lot something wasn't right. Hardheaded me, I had read on this site when I purchased the truck not to do it. It will be like putting a choke collar on a dog. I cut it off sold it and never looked back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bag Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) Engine: I use Royal Purple 5w-30w K&N HP2006 (long) oil filter also the HP1007 is called for, standard length. Tip: RP recommends changing it at 3K the 1st time and 12K thereafter. It has cleaning agents/detergents in it that breakup any sludge, debris etc. I switched over at 59K on my 1st SSS and 58K on my V-Max and both 1st oil changes were black. I now have 65K, 3K since last change and 9 months on oil and still clean. Trans: In my current stock 4L65E I'm running RP Max ATF as well but will be switching over to Dexron VI with my new Performabuilt level 2. I spoke with Frank at P.built and Jeremy at Jerry's trans locally and both said that although RP is an excellent metal lubricant it can actually shorten the life of the clutches as they do need a certain amount of friction to sustain long life and function properly. I believe your trans is the 4L70E right being 4x4?Dexron VI is called for in 06. Dexron VI service life is 100K under normal conditions but with your mileage I'd flush it! Rear Differential: I use RP 75w-90w with NO limited slip additive. Again if you search here you'll see many write ups that show adding the bottle of limited slip friction modifier on top of any full synthetic diff oil is not necessary and again too lubricative thus making your locker not lock or grab sometimes as some members here have wrote. In your front diff most members run the same as rear and other options are Mobil 1, Amsoil and Valvoline. Transfer Case: I believe 2 quarts of AutoTrak II are called for on your 4x4. As 2wdriver I'm not positive. Radiator: DexCool 3-3.5 gallons, at your mileage I'd flush although service life is 100K, my reservoir was corroded and full of sludge at 59K when I flushed. Power Steering: Also RP Max EZ p.s. fluid in mine Brake Master Cylinder: Flushed and bled with DOT 3 Wires: part #79605 - Taylor 409 Pro Race Spiro-Wound 10.4mm Spark Plug Wires - currently using these part #32829 - MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires, another option Plugs: AC Delco ACF-41-985 part# Exhaust: I'm running true dual 18" Magnaflows, used to run Flowmaster and noticed like a choking and loss of low end. Again this is just what I run, in the end it's all up to you, yes synthetic lasts longer and costs more so the $ gain comes out the same to me in the end, using a conventional oil at less cost thus changing more often. Search using keywords, search can be tricky and you'll have threads to read for days. We are always here for you! Edited January 12, 2011 by Bad aSS Silvy (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex.t Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 i just run normal castrol 5-30 and change it often. oil is oil in my mind and its doing its purpose as long as its changed when needed, for oil filter nothing special either. plugs ac delco and wires are msd cus of the headers needed the flexible ends on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VMAX Hunter Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 are those the stock plugs? thanks yall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bag Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 are those the stock plugs? thanks yall yes sir, those ACF-41-985 are stock but many here run NGK's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8hnpSS Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 mobil 1 5-30 gold cap K&N oil filter Taylor wires NGK TR6 spark plugs. if your n/a get the TR55 iridium's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VMAX Hunter Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) I am assuming that the TR55's would be gaped correctly? . . and if i were to change plugs and wires should i adjust the tune or will it not really make a differance? And thanks Bad aSS Silvy for that write up! as of now i plan on getting the same wires you run along with the TR55's . . . total damage is $130 is that a fair price? Edited January 12, 2011 by VMAX Hunter (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlosh20s Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Ive always used 5w30 Quaker state full synthetic in all my cars i like it because it doesnt gunk up the motor and does its job of protecting! As far as filter ive always used Fram tough guard never had a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bag Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I am assuming that the TR55's would be gaped correctly? . . and if i were to change plugs and wires should i adjust the tune or will it not really make a differance? And thanks Bad aSS Silvy for that write up! as of now i plan on getting the same wires you run along with the TR55's . . . total damage is $130 is that a fair price? ur welcome, I paid $64.95 for the wires and I believe the NGK's are around $7-9 so sounds fair to me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStock Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Royal Purple oil, I have been getting the RP oil filter but I do not like it because you need a filter strap to take it off apposed to the K&N filter I can use an adjustable wrench, K&N filter, MSD wires, NGK stock plugs they are pre gapped because they are iridium. Iridium plugs do not need to be gapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelleyperformance Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) I use: Engine oil- 5w-30 mobil1... Always and only on all my cars, and of course all customers I also like Lucas oils, however they are quite pricey. IMO, stay away from Royal Purple. As have built quite a few engines in my time, 90% of the engines we consistently used RP in, all had started developing deposits and sludge- even within 4000 miles... Trans fluid- Always use whatever the OEM calls for. In most cases, the OE made fluid is usually the best choice. In our SSS case, GM Dextron VI is king. I know you all see synthetic this, synthetic ATF that... All brands saying "faster shifts! Firmer shifts!" is NOT actually the case. Flush the trans and replace filter every 20k if normal driving/minimal towing. Flush system and replace filter even sooner if racing, towing, or just driving Iike an a$$ frequently Diff fluid: 75W-90 mobil1 synthetic AND 4 oz. Limited slip additive. GM manual now calls the diff "lifetime" service interval... But that's a bad idea if you drive any other way than your grandmother. Flush diff fluid every 20k-30k. I simply do it when I flush the trans on my personal vehicle (every 10k-15k). Spark plugs: On a stock truck I'd use the stock iridium AC Delco plugs (p/n: 41110). These are great as they have a service life of up to 70k miles. On a lightly modified to boosted truck, I'd use NGK TR6's (p/n: 4177). They are great for boosted applications, and in many cases for me, i can add several additional degrees of timing or get rid of light knock retard. Also they are only $2 a plug! Plug wires: It seems (ESP. On this forum) that a plug wire upgrde is a "power mod". This is absolutely false. The stock LQ9/LQ4 wires are more than ideal. This also goes for upgrded coils (MSD, Accel). These do not add power. However, they look great! I've found that more times than not, aftermarket wires just don't fit on the plug as well as OEM. But if you want some color, absoutly grab some nice MSD or Taylor wires. They can really add color under the hood. So unless color is important to you, get a set of OEM wires and call it a day Other items: Brake fluid: should not ever be mixed (Especially synthetic mixed with regular fluid!) IMPORTANT that dot 4 not be mixed with dot 3, for example. Also if you must add a little bit of fluid bc your low, try to use the same brand same dot rating. Mixing these could lead to brake failure and even necessary replacement of parts. So, to sum it up- if your going to change the fluid, flush the entire system with it. I recommend using Motul dot 4/5 in trucks that see track time, drag racing, and heavy towing. For regular use, any dot 3 is fine really. Flush the fluid when you change pads and/or every year to prevent moisture build up Coolant: GM rates your OE Dxcool good for 5 years/100k. Dexcool is great, but I would reccomend doing a system flush every 2 years/30k to prevent corrosion and deposits in the heads/block and the rest of the cooling sysem. Make sure you use ORANGE Dexcool in your truck it's very important! For cold climates use 50/50 Dexcool to distilled water. Using distilled water instead of tap water is critical to prevent corrosion and build up. For warmer climates that don't see freezing, you can use 30/70 Dexcool to distilled water. NEVER run straight water (or straight water with a "wetter" additive) without using Dexcool- you will get heavy deposits and corrosion! Edited January 12, 2011 by kelleyperformance (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1ss Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Engine: I put Mobil1 5w-30 the 1st week I had the truck Everything else in my truck is synthetic OEM dealership oils which I believe are Castrol, not sure. Every service I tell them to use the same fluid that pours out (and the oil that is on record for that same previous service). I do not like to change brands or weights of fluids, I may use Mobil 1 for my diffs but it does call for different weight oils on each diff. I do not know what I will do, but this keeps me wondering these trucks do have a power split on the awd models, id rather have the higher weight oil due to the power transfer ratio difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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