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Turbo Or T-Trim Vortech


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Rey- Thanks for the info. Is this something that will hurt the motor or does it just make the kit produce less power?

 

Art- What kit is that, the intercooler looks like the one from the link rob posted. Is that from KB racing?

 

Can someone give me a ballpark dollar amount. Thanks for all the help guys

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Rey- Thanks for the info. Is this something that will hurt the motor or does it just make the kit produce less power?

 

Art- What kit is that, the intercooler looks like the one from the link rob posted. Is that from KB racing?

 

Can someone give me a ballpark dollar amount. Thanks for all the help guys

 

 

This is not either one of those kits Greg. I will not state the name of the turbo kit due to bad customer service and lack of quality control of the kit. The waste gate on this kit vents both banks, unlike the others, creating equal back pressure as Rey stated. It is a log manifold style kit very similar to Detroit Speedworks kit. My friend spent around $6500 for the everything turbo, hot pipes, cold pipes, FMIC, injectors, pump, guages, and a tune. I did the labor that is not included in the price. The actual turbo kit so to speak was $4000 that only included the turbo, hot pipes, cold pipes and FMIC.

 

 

 

Here is en engine bay picture of the kit. The turbo is now polished though.

IMG-20110408-00005.jpg

Edited by WICKEDOWESIX (see edit history)
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I think that for simplicity the tvs2300 is a BAMF! I absolutely love my kb front mount setup though. It spools instantly. I never really thought about the equalizing of the cylinder banks but it does make sense. I think that if you want to go turbo there is ALOT of people running right side front mounted turbo kits.

I think it is cheaper if you have the capability and mechanical ability to build your intercooler. I really liked the idea of putting my air to air i/c down in the front bumper where there is nothing else at. It doesn't block any of the radiator and it gets plenty of air with the SS front bumber. I even went as far as to put 2 spal 12 inch fans behind the i/c. Works great and my iat's are pretty low also.

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ive had both as well and well turbo's make torque until the sky falls

 

imo no one makes a kit so to speak , they all use log manfiolds with wastegate on only one bank and work ok but are not ideal and you will see people overboosting on these"kits" since the wastgeate is on the cross over and not on the merge pipe where it should be so the one bank keeps spooling the turbo.

 

this is where sts kits are actually doing a bit better as they still have equal flow on both banks but have less heat to spool the turbo as quickly as a front mount .

 

a custom built turbo kit would be my choice similar to what spoolin has for a single.

 

the pt88 turbo is a good choice for a 408 and would do good on your current 408 with less compression and a new cam. so id opt for bigger cc heads in the budget as they will really help with keeping the timing in line and preventing knock

 

i wish i had an extra truck/mock up motor and i could get to building you a kit , although a flipped mani/ some tubular to a t4/t6 flange and bigger garret/precision would work awesome .

 

just get a ball park on what you have to play with and go from there . you will be pushing the limits of a 4l65e imo and may end up taking a few out in the process and will quickly add to an 80e swap.

 

let me know when your ready and i will do everything i can to help you get the spooling started.

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ive had both as well and well turbo's make torque until the sky falls

 

imo no one makes a kit so to speak , they all use log manfiolds with wastegate on only one bank and work ok but are not ideal and you will see people overboosting on these"kits" since the wastgeate is on the cross over and not on the merge pipe where it should be so the one bank keeps spooling the turbo.

this is where sts kits are actually doing a bit better as they still have equal flow on both banks but have less heat to spool the turbo as quickly as a front mount .

 

a custom built turbo kit would be my choice similar to what spoolin has for a single.

 

the pt88 turbo is a good choice for a 408 and would do good on your current 408 with less compression and a new cam. so id opt for bigger cc heads in the budget as they will really help with keeping the timing in line and preventing knock

 

i wish i had an extra truck/mock up motor and i could get to building you a kit , although a flipped mani/ some tubular to a t4/t6 flange and bigger garret/precision would work awesome .

 

just get a ball park on what you have to play with and go from there . you will be pushing the limits of a 4l65e imo and may end up taking a few out in the process and will quickly add to an 80e swap.

 

let me know when your ready and i will do everything i can to help you get the spooling started.

 

 

Not the kit I got. It has the waste gate is on the log manifold and vents both banks. Here is a quick picture of the WG on the log just beneath the turbo..

 

IMG00074-20110321-1848.jpg

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well an exception has been made lol , that is much better and will work better for sure. i just prefer even flow on both banks but that will work good no doubt . im just saying im picky and doing it right with even legnth manifolds pre turbine pipes is the way to go for best results.

 

also imo oil/water cooled turbos ftw.

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I just got my Trick turbo setup, and now you guys have me thinking about moving my wg to the log pipe. It won't be hard to do but do you think I should?

 

 

I would if I was you. But remember when you do relocate your WG your current DP will need to be modified as well since your turbo will sit higher to fit the WG.

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I was just looking at the pics I took of the set up mounted in a vise for mock up, and it seems as I will have alot of room to put the wg between the flange and #1 primary tube. I can send you the pics if you want to check it out. I was just about to wrap the hot side when I saw this thread too... That was a close one.

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Thanks for the kind words guys. :)

 

As far as the WG location, it's a PROVEN design. Perfect, no... Works good, yes. Cause any problems??, Nope! Stock48 has run mid 9's at 143mph (4800lb truck, that's about 1100rwhp) with my kit, a PT88 turbo on a 370 and only a 38mm Tial WG IN THE CROSSOVER. There is not a difference in back pressure from one bank to the other because the turbo is the restriction, setting the back pressure for the WHOLE pre-turbo piping. It doesn't mater where the WG is, it's job is regulating the back pressure (drive pressure) not flow pre-turbo to maintain boost level. There is no "check valve" so to speak that would not allow pressure to equalize back to the WG. NO ONE I know of has had any issues controlling boost with the proper sizes WG in the crossover or shown any difference in performance or engine longevity with it located anywhere else. I've built a ton of these kits and no problems. I would put money on if you put a pressure tap on the drives front manifold and the pass front manifold, at full boost there is less then a pound difference in back pressure pre-turbo. If you feel differently, then please show me proof that's it's not good and not just say you don't like it just because... :) To many fast trucks working with this type set up for it to be a bad idea. ;)

Edited by kbracing96 (see edit history)
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Thanks for the kind words guys. :)

 

As far as the WG location, it's a PROVEN design. Perfect, no... Works good, yes. Cause any problems??, Nope! Stock48 has run mid 9's at 143mph (4800lb truck, that's about 1100rwhp) with my kit, a PT88 turbo on a 370 and only a 38mm Tial WG IN THE CROSSOVER. There is not a difference in back pressure from one bank to the other because the turbo is the restriction, setting the back pressure for the WHOLE pre-turbo piping. It doesn't mater where the WG is, it's job is regulating the back pressure (drive pressure) not flow pre-turbo to maintain boost level. There is no "check valve" so to speak that would not allow pressure to equalize back to the WG. NO ONE I know of has had any issues controlling boost with the proper sizes WG in the crossover or shown any difference in performance or engine longevity with it located anywhere else. I've built a ton of these kits and no problems. I would put money on if you put a pressure tap on the drives front manifold and the pass front manifold, at full boost there is less then a pound difference in back pressure pre-turbo. If you feel differently, then please show me proof that's it's not good and not just say you don't like it just because... :) To many fast trucks working with this type set up for it to be a bad idea. ;)

 

thanks for the reply and answering all my questions on the phone.

 

Like I said I am not in a hurry and have a lot to learn about turbos before i go do this. I really want twins just for the wow factor and it just looks badass. gonna give it some time and thought and try to enjoy the new toy on the wifes new ride. Thanks everyone for the replys.

 

This is all your fault Chase lol

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