Custom Systems

[highvoltamps]

I've been installing professionally for about 16 years, and working on my own stuff since the mid 80's.

 

Looks good so far

 

Cool, I've been an union electrician for that past 15 years and installing since the early 90's. I just got done cutting up aluminum for the control panel and head unit/ EQ face. The control panel is filled with the inverter control, GFI receptacle, Varad lighting remote, Cobalt ammeter, Stinger voltmeter and a plasmglow touch switch(not sure what I going to use it for yet). It is hinged to the console bucket for access to the storage. In the storage compartment is the keyed valet switch and inside the void of the center console will be all of the alarm components.

 

Thanks, I'll keep the pics coming at photobucket.com/highvoltamps

 

I have the Directed Automate installed now and upgrading to the Scytek VG8000 and might need your help. I'm not an alarm expert but have the electrical knowledge to figure it out. Hoping it's wire for wire to the new alarm and a lit bit of wiring for the window roll up/down, heated seat turn on and my high frequency loadspeakers which can easily be done with a relay from the siren output.

 

Also what do you think about running the inverter directly from the alternator or tapped off of the battery to system feed? I've be debating what I should do here, I ran 1/0 wire to the battery which should be fused at 250 amps. My alternator is a custom built Nations rated at 350 amps, 140 amps @ idle. I should have ran 4/0 to the battery and tapped from there. Not planning on using the inverter while I'm not driving, so I think the direct wire from the the alternator will work with less interference with the other equipment hooked up.

 

Just thought what I'm going to use the touch switch on the control panel for, a transfer solenoid switch from the car battery to the system battery in case of a dead battery.

Edited May 20, 2011 by highvoltamps (see edit history)

[paulguy]

I think I did a scytex starter/alarm years ago, and if I remember right, it's pretty standard as far as starter/alarms go. Should be pretty easy except for the window module, those can be a bit of work.

If it was me I would probably just run the inverter off of the battery, it might help smooth out spikes in the current, but it probably won't matter either way. How much is a 1000w inverter going to pull anyway?80 amps?

I use a solenoid between both batteries too.

[highvoltamps]

Yeah that's a good point, using the battery as a buffer. The inverter I have can peak at 2000W and its rated input is 100 amps at full capacity. A 175 amp fuse is recommended and input power terminals are 1/0. What do you think my 1/0 should be fused at from the alternator to the battery at about 12 feet. I've found charts that say 250 amp and others at 350.

[paulguy]

250 amp is alot of juice, I can't see the battery pulling more then that. I'm not sure if getting fuses for bigger then that is going to be easy anyway. I'm not a big fan of breakers myself. They fail.

You didn't have room to put the battery where the aux battery goes under the hood?

[highvoltamps]

I have a 350 amp ceramic anl fuse and my alternator is rated at 350 amp, 140 amp at idle. I know I will never come close to drawing that continuously but just in case of a surge that will bump me over the 250. My aux battery spot is filled with the Volant CAI with the ram air ducted to the bottom grill. The battery is a Kinetik HC2400 and I don't think it would have fit there anyway. The Xtant amps are each fused at 125 amp. The sub amp will be pushing some amps and the 4 channel I'm running at 4 ohm for one set of components and the rear door speakers. Should be half of what the sub amp is putting out. When using the inverter at full capacity and the system cranked, should be close to 225 amps with spikes exceeding 250. Don't see myself doing this a lot but if I want to, I can without blowing the main fuse.

Edited May 21, 2011 by highvoltamps (see edit history)

[highvoltamps]

Hey Paulguy, got one for ya. Looking to get a new bypass module, which is the latest? My current alarm doesn't unlock the doors, I have to use the factory remote. Found the 457GW was the discontinued model, is there a better one?

[paulguy]

Hey Paulguy, got one for ya. Looking to get a new bypass module, which is the latest? My current alarm doesn't unlock the doors, I have to use the factory remote. Found the 457GW was the discontinued model, is there a better one?

 

Oh ya, lots better than that DEI pos.

I use xk01, it has a window roll-up feature which is cool.

Does heated seats, window/mirror defrost, door pin out, etc.

Edited May 24, 2011 by paulguy (see edit history)

[highvoltamps]

Thanks Paul, you the man.

[paulguy]

That`s what I been telling everyone

 

The xk01 isn`t a perfect interface, I wish you could turn off the heated seat output because it`s not consistent.

You can edit features on the ads modules if you have a usb programmer, which I do.

The Fortan modules are alright too, cheaper and I`ve been using them forever, they are pretty reliable.

 

But the window rollup is worth it on the xk01, so thats why I use it.

It requires a double pulse lock signal to activate the windows, my compustar doesn`t have that option, so I just hooked up an aux output and if I want the windows up, I just hit aux right after I arm the system and it rolls them up. But from my phone app, I can`t roll the windows up, there``s too much of delay. So I just have to put in a tr-7, and that`ll give me a double pulse on that line.

 

Another mod i`m going to do is to hook up perimeter lights... The xk01 turns the lights on which is cool, but they don`t work when the trucks running, So I`m going to take the compustar, there is a domelight output for when you unlock, and hook up the puddle lights, backup, and dlr so they work when the trucks running.

[highvoltamps]

I ended up buying the XK01, not to worried about the heated seats but definitely want the window rollup to work. I have the Scytek WR-16 smart window control module that can do 2 windows roll-up and down. On the schematic its wired to the door switches, but when the key is not in the ignition or not auto started this will not work. Should I just use the XK01 for the windows but can I roll down thw windows with this module?

Edited May 24, 2011 by highvoltamps (see edit history)

[paulguy]

I'm not familiar with that window module. The ones I've done will work because the window modules bypass the switches. So then they work anytime, key on or not.

You will lose the touch to go go all the way down feature on the factory switch though.

[highvoltamps]

Good to know, I like that feature. Here's the manual to the WR-16 http://www.megatroni...BLACKManual.pdf and the alarm manual http://www.scytek.ne.../astra/a777.pdf You have helped me out, let me know if I can help you out with any electrical questions. Sounds like your knowledgeable in electricity but it doesn't hurt to offer.

Edited May 24, 2011 by highvoltamps (see edit history)

[paulguy]

Good to know, I like that feature. Here's the manual to the WR-16 http://www.megatroni...BLACKManual.pdf and the alarm manual http://www.scytek.ne.../astra/a777.pdf let me know what you think..

 

Wow those instructions suck. It's wired the same as the dei window piece, it doesn''t say if it gives you express up or down features. If don't know if you will lose the factory express down though.

I started wiring up one in my truck on day and decided not to after figuring out how much work and losing the express feature.

[paulguy]

Because the motor wires rest at ground, i don't think you can just pulse the wire with current. You could hook up some relays to break the motor wires when the module is triggered, that way your windows would still work like factory and still have the windows roll down.

[highvoltamps]

Because the motor wires rest at ground, i don't think you can just pulse the wire with current. You could hook up some relays to break the motor wires when the module is triggered, that way your windows would still work like factory and still have the windows roll down.

 

Nice, I was thinking the same with adding the relays. Thanks for the explanation. Some of the alarm wiring can be very tricky. Got to draw it out on paper before I attempt anything. What do you think about the VG800? Pretty self explanitory with a lot of options. Should be easy since I have an aftermarket already installed. Looking to run multi conductor cable to all of the locations to tap and terminated in the center concole under the bucket. Going to remove the factory amp for mounting the alarm equipment. In the center console storage will be the keyed valet switch. My daughter and I finished the polished aluminum center console control panel and head unit/EQ face over the weekend. I came out to a mirror finish like the amp rack, getting excited. All I got left is dynamat/ensolite, running the wires, mounting equipment, termination and a RTA tune.

Edited May 25, 2011 by highvoltamps (see edit history)