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Amplifier/Sub Installation


IdriveGTP

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Just got my PAC converter today and will be getting my box and 10" Power Acoustik PW3 tomorrow or Friday. I should have it in this weekend hopefully. I've already taken all the plastic crap off just to see what I will be getting into and I think everything should go smoothly. Once again though where is it that you guys ran your power wire into the cab? That is the only thing I could see having a problem with. Everything else should be just plug and play. Thanks for a awesome write up. :cheers:

 

You can disreguard my message below. I looked back at the first post of this thread & found what I need. The PAC #AOEM-GM24 adaptor. Makes it super easy.

 

Does that PAC converter plug in-line with the harness plugs on the factory Bose head unit so you can use standard RCA patch cables so you don't have to splice the wire for a speaker signal for a amp?? I need help too. I want to add a JL Audio amp to my factory Bose head unit to power two JL 12" subs. I would love to make it a plug in installation without splicing. Thanks.

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Hopefully some of you guys can help me here. I started installing everything yesterday and finally got it done today. The PAC converter is in with the blue remote wire to the only pink wire in the harness. Everything works fine except my amp will turn it's self on and stay on for about a min then turn off. I noticed it doing it when I was taking my old box back out. The keys were out and the doors were open so it should have been off. I know that it will eventually kill the battery so I went up front and pulled my fuse so it would be off till I could ask you guys about it and then the light on my amp stayed on until I unhooked the remote wire. Am I missing something here? Is there by chance a different color wire I should have hooked my remote to? I know I hooked it up to the right side and I know everything works since I tried it with my old box and sub. Also do you guys know if you have to tune anything in on the PAC converter? I noticed it has screws in it that look like you would use them to adjust the levels to the front and back but I didn't know if I should adjust anything on it or if it comes adjusted. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated since I will be getting my new box and sub in Tuesday. Thanks.......Zac :cheers:

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Hey Zaxss

I was installing a amp connector this weekend as well and I noticed that the amp would stay on long after the lights dimmed off. The amp would stay powered about another 10 seconds or so. Then one time I had no key in the ign an doors closed and I noticed the amp came on for again about 10 seconds then turned off.

 

I asked Chris aka Fast4popper about it and his reply was.

"as for the amp turning on, mine does the same thing. its the RAP module in the truck doing it. pretty common and not an issue"

 

For some reason my amp and sub wasn't hitting as hard as it should so I just removed everything. I might try it again someday. I mainly wanted the iPod hook up and that sounds sweet. The stock sub actually hits pretty good with the iPod hooked up. We'll good enough for me I should say.

 

So I'd say it's pretty normal.

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the amp going on and off is normal but it did end up making my battery run down after time so I threw a switch on the remote wire. I put a small hole inside my center console and ran a switch so I can turn the switch on for power or off. This was also good because I dont always want my subs on. As for them not hitting hard, I had and have the same issue. In the PAC controller itself you can adjust the gain on it. I did it yesterday and the subs are 10x better but I still need to tweak it a little more.

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Ok. Thanks guys. I had that happen to me my first amp install and I was late for work because my battery was dead. Lol. I just didn't want a repeat of that. I'll prob get a switch for it if I can't find one around here. I'll also try adjusting the converter Tuesday. I was kind of disapointed when I had my old stuff in because I thought that my amp should have pushed it harder. I bet that is what the problem is. Thanks for the help guys............Zac :cheers:

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so do you guys recomend just adding a subs and an amp, and leave the stock bose speakers alone? Or do you think they should be replaced wtih aft.market? I was thinking of doing this, just to get it a little louder, I don't really need to "thump".

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I think the BOSE gets loud enough, obviously it could get a lot better but you might as well swap out the HU, speakers and everything if you want to go that route. I was going to swap out my HU this weekend but changed my mind once I found out how much it was going to cost me to just get the harnesses and keep my XM. There are also better LOC out there than the PAC, just the PAC I believe is the cheapest and easiest to install.

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  • 7 months later...

I ask because I have an aftermarket amp hooked up but I dont know exactly how it was done cause I had a friend do it and I did not have to buy said converter. I do have the thump but a little too much so I think a crossover will work. I don t get much treble to compliment the thump though. Since I do have the thump should I still get a converter? I just want to be able to use the factory components to their full capapbility and get a honest to goodness clean sound without messing anything up, because we all know times are tough and we cant have that.

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You have a converter somewhere if you are still using the factory headunit. Might not be the high quality converter in this thread ... prolly just an off the shelf L.O.C. .... if it is too loud I would look to see where the converter (LOC) is at and it will probably have a turn screw that will let you turn down the strength ... just follow the wire off the amp until you come to where it connects to your trucks wire harness.

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  • 1 year later...

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