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how do you properly dyno a awd ss on a 2wd dyno?


idahoBLKss

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I know lots of you guys have done this and so.e have done it allot. What's the proper procedure to do this ?Guys on pt.net ddon't believe me it can be done. And yes I searched it on here but couldn't find a step by STP / procedure on how to do it.

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I always heard/read that you just pull the front driveshaft out and put the truck in neutral after the pull and let the rollers slow everything back down. Never tried it on mine, but was always pushed towards doing so back home when I had the procharger.

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Pulling the front shaft is the only way I've ever heard with the 149 tcase. Too bad it humps the tcase and toasts it. If there is another way I would be interested to hear since ill be doing my 80e soon then going awd soon after.

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I don't think there is a right way to dyno our trucks unless in AWD. You take the driveshaft out your losing all that extra load and rotating mass. Which will effect numbers. Better I believe to just street tune in my eyes. But I have a AWD dyno near me so I guess I'm lucky.

 

Sent from my PantechP8010 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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Ahh the beauty of the internet.

 

Full of miss information, but here it goes.

 

Wait until the absolute last minute to pull the front driveshaft. When the truck is on the rollers, do not let the brakes hold the rear wheels from turning. Basically if it's in gear allow the wheels to roll. If you must stop the wheels, do so quickly and when they are about to stop, set the shifter to neutral. Never be in gear while the wheels are stopped. That's when the viscous coupler starts to fry. Do your pulls and when done, replace the driveshaft and drive off.

 

 

My truck dynoed at 640hp and 600+ torque with no issues afterwards

 

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk 4

 

 

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This info needs to be sticky :cheers:

Ahh the beauty of the internet.

 

Full of miss information, but here it goes.

 

Wait until the absolute last minute to pull the front driveshaft. When the truck is on the rollers, do not let the brakes hold the rear wheels from turning. Basically if it's in gear allow the wheels to roll. If you must stop the wheels, do so quickly and when they are about to stop, set the shifter to neutral. Never be in gear while the wheels are stopped. That's when the viscous coupler starts to fry. Do your pulls and when done, replace the driveshaft and drive off.

 

 

My truck dynoed at 640hp and 600+ torque with no issues afterwards

 

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk 4

Edited by BLNAWAY (see edit history)
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Hopefully the guy that is doing the tune will follow those directions. All of the dyno sessions I have been to and had done, are not responsible for any damage to the motor/ drive train. Just a FYI.

Well said, if the shop screws up we are shit out of luck.

CHP definetly needs to be a sticky, but I do understand this is for the a truck with serious mods, just not bolt-ons. I know a spot that can do a 2wd dyno but I do not trust the shop, however I have found an AWD dyno about 45-60 mins from me.

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