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Heads. AFR 205's, specifically.


marc_w

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Sweet, thanks Richard.

 

Back to the original post here - It sounds like the 66's would work just fine and dandy - if anything I'd need to wait to see which gaskets to go with based off my my deck height. The truck can be down a few days this spring - not a huge deal. So it may not be as bad as I think.

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A head swap will not be too bad at all. One day will get er done. 66's mean NA then huh. Cool. You do know that the high compression will really like the n20. :devil:

 

TJ has a good point. Power-adder-on-demand is cheaper and can be done quite safely. :devil::D

 

"resistance is futile. you will be assimilated." :jester:

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A head swap will not be too bad at all. One day will get er done. 66's mean NA then huh. Cool. You do know that the high compression will really like the n20. :devil:

 

TJ has a good point. Power-adder-on-demand is cheaper and can be done quite safely. :devil::D

 

"resistance is futile. you will be assimilated." :jester:

 

 

 

 

borg_assimilation_faces.gif

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Whatever you do, don't pay someone else to take them off and swap them for you. If I can do it, anyone can. I had a couple of hard spots and lessons learned, but nothing that slowed me down much.

 

A good head builder should be able to tell you what they can do to the heads to meet your goals. They'll do almost anything you want, but will not steer you too far astray for making the best power. They want their product to do well in your vehicle just as much as you do.

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Whatever you do, don't pay someone else to take them off and swap them for you.  If I can do it, anyone can.  I had a couple of hard spots and lessons learned, but nothing that slowed me down much.

 

A good head builder should be able to tell you what they can do to the heads to meet your goals.  They'll do almost anything you want, but will not steer you too far astray for making the best power.  They want their product to do well in your vehicle just as much as you do.

 

Thanks Ben...

 

What was getting me worried was the squish area... or what I know it as, is squish band. I'm really only familiar with two-stroke motorcycle heads. The spark plug sitting right smack in the middle of the head, with the squish band recessed, and circling around the edge of the chamber. If you're looking for proper squish, you need to mill the heads. I got kind of stupid and didn't realize the squish area of these Gen3 heads are basically flush with the 'sealing surface' of the heads so machining is not needed.... just proper deck height measurement and gasket choice... (correct?)

 

Now... 66cc and stay NA... or 76cc - shoot for about 9.5:1 static and keep saving for a Radix? ;)

 

After this, I think the soonest I could afford a Radix would be a year and a half or more later. That's a long time to "suffer" with 76cc chambers. ;)

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Whatever you do, don't pay someone else to take them off and swap them for you.  If I can do it, anyone can.  I had a couple of hard spots and lessons learned, but nothing that slowed me down much.

 

A good head builder should be able to tell you what they can do to the heads to meet your goals.  They'll do almost anything you want, but will not steer you too far astray for making the best power.  They want their product to do well in your vehicle just as much as you do.

 

Thanks Ben...

 

What was getting me worried was the squish area... or what I know it as, is squish band. I'm really only familiar with two-stroke motorcycle heads. The spark plug sitting right smack in the middle of the head, with the squish band recessed, and circling around the edge of the chamber. If you're looking for proper squish, you need to mill the heads. I got kind of stupid and didn't realize the squish area of these Gen3 heads are basically flush with the 'sealing surface' of the heads so machining is not needed.... just proper deck height measurement and gasket choice... (correct?)

 

Now... 66cc and stay NA... or 76cc - shoot for about 9.5:1 static and keep saving for a Radix? ;)

 

After this, I think the soonest I could afford a Radix would be a year and a half or more later. That's a long time to "suffer" with 76cc chambers. ;)

 

 

My best advice, Marc, is to decide on NA or the Radix first. If you decide on the Radix, I would swap order and buy the Radix first. Then you don't have a year and a half to suffer, but a year and a half of monster torque and power that will be augmented to super-monster levels later :)

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Wern't there some people having trouble with the radix making good boost with higher flowing heads, exhaust, ect........ Mabey a centrifugal would be a better choice??

 

If your lookin to go FI.... I would DEFINATLY get the blower first! :D Like Berserker said, you wouldn't have to suffer at all.

 

George :chevy:

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Higher flow heads will decrease your boost over the stock head for a Radix. I experienced a half pound loss when I put my heads on. My heads are 77cc. The tradeoff is, the higher volume brings down your CR, so along with your max boost, you may be able to run a few more degrees of timing vs the stock 10:1CR.

 

The problem with the Radix is you'll be maxed out at 9.5 +/-1 lbs of boost, with a high flow head. I was hitting 10.3 with my system and a 2.75" pulley. After heads - about 9.7, or so. I don't think my numbers were common. Some are barely hitting 9 with the 2.75" pulley and the stock head.

 

If I put heads on and still wanted FI, I'd go with a D1SC, or turbo. I loved the Radix kit, but would have never thought of getting rid of it if it was capable of putting out higher boost numbers. Maybe those boost numbers are fine with you. Guess I outgrew them. :tear:

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