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Trans heating from servos


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my comment was more directed toward joe. if you're going into some detail on a topic, it doesn't leave that person open to tell someone why product A works better than product B when all they know about the product is simply what they've read or discussed from another person. computers is another hobby i have and if i read into a certain processor, it doesn't leave room for me to go into detail why mine overclock's better than a buddies as my knowledge on the processor is no more than what i simply read. Bugsdad certainly seems to have experience in the area at hand and is familier with the products. my guess would be that his experience is similar to mine in that he didn't just learn about the products he's using without trying them and knowing what that part's job is in the first place. i've ran into many guys on the street going on and on about the parts they bought for their truck/car and how good they are. with my last truck, i was at a 14.86 best while another guy with the same truck had been previously bragging about the parts he had in his truck to the tune of around 5500 dollars or so in parts. mine had never had the valve covers off it in over 100k and still had the stock programming. needless to say his list of parts he was bragging about wasn't so impressive being .02 faster. JamesB over at LS1TECH told me that my buddies tahoe wouldn't likely break into the 13's and if it did it was going to break the trans or rear. well, the first weekend out with the supercharger on it we beat his best time by almost .4 on the street tires we drive it every day on 50 miles after we put the blower on. the trans is stock other than a zippy kit and the stock rear hasn't had an issue yet. he's very technical and will type in detail why his whipple is the best blower made along with why he went with a 4L80E and 14 bolt rear (which was a good way to slow the truck down). being informative doesn't lead you very far until you have went anywhere with it. my point is unless you really want to learn in detail, be cautious about what you're telling the guy next to based on what you have read or heard. other than trying to sell you a product, most tech guys won't go much into detail.

 

Bugsdad, this isn't directed toward you if that's how your taking it. when someone is on here and goes into much detail, it just leads to many questions and new experts. i think it's good that you're posting your information and that it comes from experience.

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I went back to my mechanic and we took it to his buddy at Red River Chevrolet(supposedly has the most "master tech", i think thats how you say it, in the country :dunno: ) They are giving me the impression that it is, maybe, the converter. Its a TCI. I am hoping it is that and not the programing, which I dont know how it could be anyways. Red River is going to check tomorrow. Wish me luck. I hope TCI doesnt make my mechanic pay for a new converter though.

 

At least I know where to take my truck in for warranty work, without getting naggd about my mods.

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good to hear you're getting somewhere. not to knock the converter you bought, but i'm not sure i've ever had any good success with a tci product. to me they are about the same level as a yank or worse. keep us updated man.

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i'd recomend a raybestos blue plate clutch kit (the kit with the 8 3/4 clutches-rcpbp-15 i believe is the number) and a raybestos pro series band.

If you've really got some money to burn, there is a custom setup where your Input drum has to be machined along with a #7 apply ring with a machined apply plate. Stock snap ring. 8 hydrocut steels, hydrocut backing plate. 8 Clutches are each just slightly bigger than a turbo 350 direct piston.

Your talking several hundred dollars just for the drum and clutches. It may be overkill for what your interested in.

Block the air bleed hole in the input drum as well. There's already a check ball that takes care of bleeding off air. This will keep your 4th piston from constantly bleeding off pressure.

If the shop tries to talk you into a wide band, be aware that you must replace the reverse input drum as well so the apply surface is flat. The guys that really work the 2-4 band on an old reverse drum will burn the band on the high spots that it hits.

Don't do a wide band unless your ready to replace the reverse drum.

There's lots you can do. Just depends on budget. Doesn't everything?

 

I'm so glad your on the road to getting the truck fixed!

Take care.

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Is this custom setup available somewhere, or is it just modifying the stock drum?

 

I've got some pictures of it at home on my PC.

I'll put them up. I've reinforced the drum, cryo'd the stock drum, and had it machined. I then put a machined steel overrun piston in it with the 700-CS transgo hi rev spring kit. It is very expensive to do though and may not be cost effective for guys just wanting their truck to "run".

This can go a long way to help the 3-4 clutches but still won't do anything for the broken input shaft issue.

I say that because you'll get the 3-4's to hold (very nice 3rd apply), but eventually the shaft is gonna give out.

Most guys will move on to the TH400 or 4L80E by this point though because of the money involved. There is an output shaft made of E4340 available but the input shaft and drum still isn't taken care of totally.

It'd be nice if GM would sit back, look at the aftermarket and apply all the tricks in a new drum. Opens up a world of questions though and I've taken the thread off topic. :banghead:

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one of the guy's on here had the input shaft failure using the 8 plate kit with a stock 65E drum. the shaft showed cracks in it and the collar around it was broken into many pieces. it broke on the 2-3 shift. :banghead:

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I was on my way to the dealer and about half way there I had to take a 20 minute break because the tranny got hot. Once I got there they took it right in and I came back a few hours later. They said they are almost positive its the converter. I took it back to my mechanic where it will stay for probably two weeks, so they can send the converter back and get another one :shakehead: . I told them I would pay for express shipping, if that would help :dunno: .

 

Zippy, how much for that clutch kit and that band? Install$?

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Hey guys.

Here's pics of the problem zippy and I are talking about.

aae.jpg

Big time failure. Cracked down on the coller and blew the snap ring retaining area out. This was a "neutral drop".

aac.jpg

What was left after a hard 2-3.

aaa.jpg

Full pic of everything.

I don't know if this was discussed but the reason the 8 clutch stack that zippy is talking about is so important, and why I mentioned the custom 3-4 stack is that on a 2-3 shift, the forwards and the 3-4s are propelling you forward.

On the 3-4 shift, the forwards are still holding but are overrun(sprag letting go). So the only thing left actually propelling you forward is the 3-4 clutch stack. Then, on a 4-3 shift or a 4-2 shift, the sprag takes a hit. This is where the sprag element can flip or the overrun clutch hub(when in D)can be destroyed.

Flipped sprag:

100_0743.jpg

Chewed up overrun clutch hub busted on manual 4-3 kickdown coupled with a WOT:

100_0744.jpg

Just be aware of how your transmission works and hopefully you'll be able to prevent some failures and limit your frustration. Not trying to scare you. Just trying to get you to respect what your driving and how you treat it.

Zippy will point you straight.

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