Rausche

Welcome to the site! Where in MA are you located? We're a pretty active region, I hope you come out to a meet sometime, the more the merrier!

That's no joke... I have 2 points on my license right now for 'failure to keep right'... Damn teenagers.

IMO it would've been nice to have smoked tails on there to compliment the blacked out ducts... Or white tails to pull in even more of the 'clean' look... Danny: Once I get my tails back from you I'm sending you some new headlights/bumper lights to get cleared, that looks too sexy too pass up...

Will the LQ9 bolt up to an oldschool T-5? PM me with shipping prices to 02631, shipping to a business with no loading dock.

Mine runs between 172*-178*... I might be in colder climate than you though. Doesn't sound out of the ordinary to me.

With as many hits as this topic is getting, I think it's important to point out that the stock charging is a fusible link. I don't think many people still know what those are, lol. It is important that the charging wire be fused, so I'm glad to hear you're taking this approach Kevin. I will be moving up to 4 guage fusible link (8 guage is stock), and if I need to go bigger from there I will be taking the Maxi-Fuse route... BTW: The build is looking sick!!! Can't wait to see it in person!

Make it a good one everybody!

Better off with the Trunk Monkey, IMO.

Groove Armada - Superstylin

Hell yes.

I bought a set of DEI lighted bolts. They were about $18 and are pretty stealth. I'll take pics when I actually get my rollpan installed, lol.

Do you have both doors hooked up? I think the majority of that wiring runs into and is controlled by the BCM, it wouldn't surprise me if it was shutting everything off because it thinks there is a short. My advice: Double check all the connections again, even for the ump-teenth time. Make sure all of the wires are actually seated properly in each connector, and that any ground wires you may have taken off are hooked back up. Plug in all the controls on both doors, check EVERY last fuse, and make sure everything else is working. You may be suffering from the trickle-down effect starting from the HU. Let us know what's up and we'll go from there.

I just took my spare tire assembly off in preparation for the rollpan... It's in perfect conditon. PM if you're looking for a replacement. I can't offer you the tire, but the winch at least is yours if you need one.

I feel your pain on that... Before the E-Fans my IATs sat about 8*-12* degrees ambient, and after they're about 20*-25* above (and much higher if I let her idle for a while).

Put a bid in on a house Working 60+ hours per week Getting work done to the truck: roll pan installed tinted LED tails & 3rd hidden hitch tailgate handle relocated stake pockets shaved front windows tinted Playing video games to stave off aggravation Go to parties with the crew Trying to get motivated to start my dune buggy build

It's still going to be feeding your engine CO2, which will mess with your AFR (at least that what makes sense in my head). If you could use it to super-cool your intake tube, that might be something; It would cool the intake charge as it passed through without adding any C02. However I think that the air moves too fast through the intake tube for this to really be an improvement at all. IMO you're better off wiring some e-fans on constant duty, to keep IATs as low as possible while you're not moving, or going the Methanol or Ice-Box route.

There are a few people here who run a helper kit that is made by Firestone, to keep the truck level during heavy loads / towing... I'm not sure of a PN but it shouldn't be too hard to find it. If you're looking for full on shocks, try AirRide Technologies, but IMO full shocks is a waste of money for what you're looking for. The kit from Firestone is just a set of airbags that go between the axle and frame to help out the rear springs.

This could be done pretty easily... When I get home later tonight I'll take a closer look at the wiring for the tails and let you know what you need to do.

This rumor has been circulating the local shops here for the last 4 years or so... It is NEVER going to happen. The EPA will not allow old cars that used to be emissions controlled to become non-controlled. The only thing that I could see becoming reality is the removal of the dyno from inspection stations. Less vehicles require its use, and they are very costly to rent and repair. This would mean emissions testing for 84-96 vehicles would be a two-speed idle with a sniffer (which is much easier to pass). And no matter what, you will never get away with straight pipes (legally). In order to pass a visual inspection, a car that came with converters must still have them on. Even though you might not have to pass emissions, you would still need cats to get a sticker. In either case, I'll believe it when it happens. Right now, it's just a rumor.

YOUR shout box? Don't get me started on this again... My shout count was crushing yours until they reset it...

Why don't you just buy new bulbs? The ballasts should be interchangeable... If not you wasted a whole bunch of money.

Yup, until you figure in the adapter base which makes a D2S bulb fit in a 9006/9005 cavity, which is where the extra length comes from. When I get a chance I take a picture of my stockers vs. one of my 6000ks and show you what I mean.

Good one!

Hey Tyler: How difficult would it be for you to wrap the Amber lenses in vinyl? That way the rainbow effect from painting wouldn't be a problem and they'd still be colormatched, right? And when are you going to get the exchange going? I'm getting itchy for some cosmetic improvements!

Make it a good one everybody!