Ross

Get the black RBP grille with the stainless rivets - that's what I made mine to look like. They look so sick on the NNBS trucks. Great looking truck Chase!

I'm sorry but our politics are just wayy too f'ed up. I usually don't get involved in threads like this but g dammit this pisses me off. As far as I'm concerned when you kill someone or something equivalent of killing someone (let alone helping mastermind the worst terrorist attack in the US) YOU NO LONGER HAVE ANY RIGHTS - end of story...why is that so hard to understand? Why do we owe this piece of sh!t a "fair trail" - F()ck him. Roast his @ss and the rest of them. - and F()ck his c()nt attorney, she should be kicked out of our country for defending this piece of garbage ...I'm done for now. Sry

Yeah I bought mine from Lingenfelter - I can't remember who made it but its wasn't their name stamped on it... T-stats are pretty simple in design.

SOLD Locally...

Thanks Fireman! and thanks everyone else. Would it be possible for the amp or something in the amp to "go bad" and cause the draw even if it was working fine? Now that I have the schematics I'm going to play with it some more tonight and try to isolate this further.

A while ago I posted about my Optima battery dying randomly overnight. I thought it could be the alternator but today we started pulling fuses, etc and isolated the issue. Keep in mind the truck only has a pioneer dvd touchscreen with adapters to keep factory settings and a single aeroforce scan gauge - that's the only electrical mods. Their is a 1 amp draw while the truck is sitting. - Alternator checked out fine and the first fuse I pulled is the 10A Radio fuse - draw goes away. The 30A Radio Amp fuse also eliminates the draw. - I disconnected everything from the back of the headunit with the fuse still in and it still remained - Disconnected the adapters - still there - disconnected the harness from under the console for the factory AMP and it goes away. Could the factory amp just randomly go bad and cause this? Any ideas? Does anyone have the factory wiring diagram of the bose system including the amp? Thanks for any help....I'm going to get this bitch!

I posted in the other thread but Marty said they're out of stock until end of the month Guess I gotta wait to get mine....

They're out of stock Gotta wait til the end of the month for mine...

Ordered mine tonight...hopefully I'll get back some low end that my flowmaster seems to be sucking out of my truck

Mint condition - Has had coats Zaino on it since the day I bought the truck. Few minor tiny chips have been touched up but nothing else. Has approx 60k miles on it. $150 picked up. Located in Virginia. Please get this thing out of my garage!

I thought 3" from the headers back was standard? My truck had duals with flowmaster 40's on it when i bought it - I had them switch it up with a single 50 series big block muffler thats dual 3" in single 3.5 out and it went right on....

I can get you a good deal on an aeroforce and/or all their products - pm me if interested. Thanks

Cool deal. Will do... Thanks

Does he have a muffler with dual 3" inlets? Prefer dual 3" outlets also but I'm going to dump it so I'm not picky... Video sounds awesome!

I guess this is my only option now. What's the best way to hook the meter up? I've heard different methods. Thanks again everyone...

Again - the headunit has been on the truck for a while with no issues. This drain just started out of no where - with a autozone battery that tested bad so I replaced it with a red top. I'm now on my second red top - The battery is def NOT the issue.

Only thing I have is a pioneer p4000dvd - but its been in the truck for over a year and im just now having this problem. No new electrical mods other than the Aeroforce gauge and the fuel psi sensor - Which I've unplugged...

I'm going to re-visit this. I had everything tested on the truck a while back. They replaced the optima and I've been unplugging my aeroforce gauge. Today I went out to start the truck and it was dead (6.2volts) - last started it on Saturday when I drove it to pick something up. There's got to be a current draw somewhere...they tested the alt at autozone but said it seemed fine. I'm still leaning that way but I don't want to just dump a couple hundo on something that wont fix this issue. Any more ideas? Thanks again

Floor jack?

Why not just buy the caliper paint kit at an auto parts store and do it yourself? It'd be cheaper than shipping alone... Just a thought

I always say all or nothing. We have f'ed up tint laws here in VA and I used to tint windows and detail for a living. I always thought cars/trucks looked best when all the windows were the same shade - regardless of the %. ...and I'm not a fan of the windshield strips - just do the whole thing and cut around the inspection sticker (if you have them there) Just my $.02

No money right now...sorry - I'll stick with my black stockers

Those wheels are sick as hell

I wish I had the money man - Good luck

I want your brakes Bump for a nice set of painted stockers!