crankbearing

Right - So if it was rich the pcm would be trying to lean it out to compensate. I have e-mailed about the issue but no response yet. I will get it rescanned today and get the exact code numbers. I did do the pass lock relearn as instructed with the pcm it fired up on the first attempt and no codes. I did not get the ses until a couple days later. It did come on and stay on that is when I had it scanned and cleared and now it came back on once and stayed on but them went out on the next couple of igntion cycles / warm ups. Now I just get the flashing when above 2100 rpm.

Hey All, So I installed my new Pcm. I went for a couple long drives now I am getting the ses light at pretty near anything over 2100 rpm on the highway, it flashes the SES light several time and then goes out when I let up a bit on the throttle. I got is scanned and it was a pass lock code and a engine missfire detected. I had them cleared and have not re-scanned them again since. I did not get the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn procedure completed with the new PCM and I am thinking that may be problem but in reading the GM manual it list some other things to check as well. from the service manual : Excessive vibration from sources other than the engine could cause DTC P0300 to set. The following are possible sources of vibration: Thickness variation of the brake rotors--Refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes in Hydraulic Brakes. The drive shaft not balanced--Refer to Vibration Analysis - Driveline in Vibration Diagnosis and Correction. Worn or damaged accessory drive belt--Refer to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical in Engine Mechanical-4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L <LI>There may be more or less cylinders actually misfiring than indicated by the scan tool. <LI>Spray water on the secondary ignition components using a spray bottle. Look and listen for arcing or misfiring. <LI>If there are multiple misfires on only one bank, inspect the fuel injector and ignition coil, power and ground circuits for that bank. Refer to Engine Controls Schematics . Here is a little more info on the Engine Missfire code from the manual. The powertrain control module (PCM) uses information from the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor and the camshaft position (CMP) sensor in order to determine when an engine misfire is occurring. By monitoring variations in the crankshaft rotation speed for each cylinder, the PCM is able to detect individual misfire events. A misfire rate that is high enough can cause the 3-way catalytic converter (TWC) to overheat under certain driving conditions. The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) will flash ON and OFF when the conditions for TWC overheating are present. If the PCM detects a misfire rate sufficient to cause emission levels to exceed mandated standards, DTC P0300 will set. I guess that if we were too lean a cruise speeds it could be overheating the cats.

In Canada, I understand that the BB salespeople are not on Commision. I have done more research on this and it is basically stated that the KCA-620m USB adapter is a 150$ paper weight most of the time. However, I removed the WMA files and reformatted the drive with swissknife again to the full 250Gb and started placing artist folders back on the drive a few at a time with only 2 albums or less worth of files in each. (No folder in folder of course). and it does find the drive everytime AND powers it off the Single Alpine USB at the adapter. I have about 30 folders on the drive now with 40 or less files per folder and it reads those and the sound quality for a WMA is pretty good. The drive is a 250Gb Lacie. So I will continue this way until I find the limit. It still takes about 15 seconds to read the drive each time I hit the search folder and of course starts playing the priority bit song every time you start the car. I will fix this via drivesort when I get to the limit. This is the same for all A/V headunits as I understand from Alpine Tech Support. I have a call into the local area rep I am hoping to have install the new firmware on the adapter as noone seems to be able to do it from the files on Alpine's site. Tech sent me another file with the same issue, it says it is upgrading but when complete it still flashes the same firmware.

I found this on-line, but you may want to dbl check. It is listed for a 2007 Silverado. Radio 12v red/white + radio harness Radio Ground black - radio harness Radio Ignition (GMLAN Serial Data) Radio Illumination yellow (dimmer) + radio harness Factory Amp Turn-on same as power antenna wire Power Antenna white + radio harness LF Speaker +/- tan - gray +,- radio harness or amplifier Notes: If equipped, the amplifier is under the rear of the center console. At the amplifier, the left subwoofer wires are dk. blue/white (+) - lt. green/black (-). The right subwoofer wires are dk. green (+) - lt. blue/black (-). RF Speaker +/- lt. green - dk. green +,- radio harness or amplifier LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow +,- radio harness or amplifier RR Speaker +/- dk. blue - lt. blue +,- radio harness or amplifier This information is a reference only. Always verify all circuits by using a DVM. Here is the link if you want to check out the post yourself. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_...s.asp~TID~93982

Hey All, Just a little note on Alpine A/V Units (Double Din) IVA-W200, W205, W505 and the slide out DVD models. I have been trying for the past week to get a 250Gb hard drive hooked up to my system. I have tried several flash drives and they all work fine. I have formatted my music as per Alpine's instructions. The structure HAS to be One folder only and then music inside of it. So I have a folder for my artists, then wma files inside that. So in frustration, I took my hard drive full of music into best buy yesterday to try on different head units and plugged in the the Pioneer 4000 - read it and worked like a dream, Kenwood dnx-5120 just kept reading it would not play, Alpine W-205 would not read it. Alpine X100 - reads it fine and full tag support. So I called up Alpine after spending roughly 1K for all this stuff including the kca-620m ai-net to usb adapter and tech support tells me that the A/V units will only support up to an 80Gb USB hard drive. Nice - would that have been so hard to put in the manual at least for the $200 ai net - usb adapter. So I am now trying to format my 250Gb drive into two 80Gb drives to see if it will work that way or if I have to get an actual 80Gb drive. This is such a drag and if the HU did not sound so good I would sell it all and buy something else. So if you want or have a big HD music collection you may want to look elsewhere for HU. Good practice though, I am in BB and as I am hooking up my HD to the display models, Sales walks over " WOW is that a USB hard drive? I really wanted to see if one will work in my car. I have this unit, Can you plug it in to this one? " LOL gives you the warm and fuzzy feeling of selling to the salesman.

A Peripheral GMCO would work in your application as well. It works with the bose (STD) and does not include on star. I used this with my alpine I never used On-star so I did not need to retain it. You can pick them up on Ebay Cheap.

Got the USB adapter installed. Now I am just trying to figure out the folder structure for WMA files and ALPINE. Here is a pic of the USB plug in in the console. The Alpine Module mounted easily under the drinkholder with some two sided tape.

If thats the case should Transgo not have put both sets of gaskets in the kit. I have checked with a couple shops since and all the rebuild kits they get for our tranny's has two different sets of gaskets with a white sheet of paper explaining the same thing you mentioned in your post.

Thanks for the reply, yes I cannot wait to install the 5.1 system either. I am just trying to decide on speakers, I really like the new energy 4x6 plates as you can remove the driver as well. They just do not pull low enough on the response. I am trying to match all 5 the same. I really wich that KEF would have stayed in the 5.1 car audio market. I think I still have the KEF DTS car decoder out of the yellow bug they did in Canada I bought it from the CDN Kef rep at that time wow thats long ago. I am actually using the pre-outs from the HU into the amp. The GMCO comes with the RCA;s for Frl, Rrl and if you need to use speaker outputs you just are suppose to cut them off. I was suspecting a ground loop hum. when I wire up the new amps, I think I will run a direct ground wire to the HU as well. I will have the interior out at that point so it will be easy. I swore I would never do this again. LOL. I had a Sony CDX-C90, XDP-4000 processor and the 6 channel McIntosh amp without the meter ($2000 my cost in 2000 or so) with 165K3 Focal components in the front and my little 8" sealed PG XS Sub wired with all Wireworld interconnects and speaker wire. It was all in the digital domain as well as the sony HU was Pre-amp Only with an optical cable to the processor. Man that sounded sweet. I cannot remember how I set the crossover in the processor but it took me about three weeks just to get used to the settings through the laptop YOU could control everything with that processor. I think I brickwalled most of the slopes when I set it up and that little 8" with 250W of Mcintosh power sounded like two 12's If I wasn't careful it would have popped the little guy out of the voice coil past it;s excursion. but it served well I will have too look and see if I have any pics of that system anywhere. Actually here are a couple pics of it, The Dak I picked up Brand New in 2000 - 22KM on the OD. The second is the head unit real bad pic and the third is the system. See the IC'c between the amp and the processor they are Wireworld polaris™ custom made 6" long 1/2" thick each with 24k gold connectors. WW is really cool wire technology. you have polymer coated indivdual pure copper strands spiral wound on the inside (+) then another poly/teflon insulator and then your coated pure copper strands wrapped around that poly/teflon core (-) and all copper strands are indivually coated as well this is what they call symmetricoax™ design. It works and sounds amazing it is just a pain to terminate with the coating on the strands you need a solder pot. I tried to find a pic of the Focal's installed but no luck, they were beautiful and that TN45 tweeter is just amazing... here is a pic of the kef dts decoder though. rgds,

RICE EATER, Does it just GO AWAY above 60 or below 55. It sounds like a TCC to me as well just not engaging smooth. One thing you can try at those speed when it starts just quickly tap the brake pedal and see if A) the tach needle jumps up a little bit and then B) the shutter goes away. Is the tranny stock currently pull the dipstick and look at the fluid colour and the smell. It could be a sticky TCC solenoid, I am not sure what the new ones are like but the older ones in the GM trannies we replaced all the time. You can also check your rear shaft front U-joint. I did both of mine last weekend with only 70k Miles on the truck and they were very stiff. rgds,

Well I took it for a good long drive after charging the battery for a couple hours and the hum seems to have all but faded away at least I can not hear even a faint buzz. Awesome.

Hey All, I am selling my head unit. Was working great when removed as of this weekend. It never jammed a Cd or Skipped on me once. Make me an offer.

Sorry for the delay. here are some pics of the gaskets in question. Here is the old GM gasket. Here is the supplied kit gasket. Here they are overlapped. You can really see the difference when they are on the valve body with the round hole there is a large spot on the valve body left exposed.

Hey All, I picked up a great deal on a IVA-W200 head unit and the MRA-F350 amp. The head unit does DD and DTS (2.0) Internally and the amp actually has the processor internally for 5.1 surround and 5 channels at 50W then a pre out for .1 sub channel for which I will use my clarion pro amp bridged for my little 8" sealed sub enclosre I built years ago for my Dakota RT. Anyhow, I used the Peripheral GMCO module other then not having a remote turn on wire for the adaptor side it was pretty straigt forward. I have not installed the amps yet only the head unit I used the TR7 ( a Must for this unit) it needs a button press and a toggle switch for this model alpine so it was easier with the tr7. I also have the SWC control module which I will finish up with this morning. My only issue is I have a hum through the factory amp at minimal volume anyone else have this issue. I think it is a gound thing but no sure I would almost say it is a 60Hz hum if it was plugged into the house. One other thing, What does the 2nd connector on the rear of the radio interface with there are two wires a pnk/blk and an org/blk. Sorry for the bad pics my camera bites. Steering wheel controls are working fine as well.

Hey All, Well I thought I would share this. I was getting rough idle to the point of stalling on the truck at stops. Well while I was doing my last oil change, I figured I would clean the TB while I was at it. I remove the K&N from the truck to oil the filter at the same time. What I noticed was one of the rubber mount hold downs had separated allowing the filter to bounce around. I tied it down on that side with some cables ties currently and did not clean the TB so I could test my theory and I my problems of rough idle seem to be gone now. I am going to fix this properly by installing some rubber mounts from a 70's Mercury Outboard which are much more solid. So I ended up cleaning the TB as well and all is perfect now. So I guess the broken mount was reeking havoc on the maf sensor.

I went back to the shop and picked up the remnants of the kit. I will look in it and see if the old gaskets are there to compare with the one's shipped within the kit and get some pictures from that. The shop showed me a seal kit for our trannies that they normally use and in that kit were 4 gaskets sealed and a note about an update of the gaskets you install. I will try and get some pics today or tomorrow. Man does it pull hard now... I like it AAAAAAlot.

Stinger/Peripheral make a few different modules as do others. Question is they make one that does bose-onstar-chimes through the bose amp or the add on module. this is 250 at BB and future shop then they have a GMCO which is much cheaper that does bose std or premium and chimes without on-star but still handles the bus data. If you do not subscribe to On-star or Use on-star can the 2nd module be used. thanks,

Well I got the right gaskets from Mr Transmission. I wish I would have had my digital camera with me when I dropped of the gaskets at the shop, basically the gaskets supplied in the kit had two round holes where two square/recatnglular ones should have been and if installed it would have left about a 1/4" of open cavity in the valve body above and below the plate.

I just took them into the fastener place and matched them up, there is a washer and a spacer for the e-brake cable crossover bracket, so make sure and get a bolt a little longer for that one. I think they are m10 x 1.50 x 50 or 60mm but I did not measure them, so it,s best to match them up. I took one of the old diff bolts with me as well. Any fastener place should have them in stock.

Well Transgo says it won't matter if the holes overlap. NICE! response. Anyhow off to find the right gaskets.

Has anyone heard or had issues with there separator plate gaskets included the Transgo kit 4L60E-HD2. I just had a call from the shop doing mine saying the gaskets are not right. There are couple of port different on the gaskets which would allow fluid to pass. He is on the phone to Transgo now to find out.

I used the TA1807A on my truck and it fit fine, it is the low profile version and the stud kit is TA 1815. It is worthwhile buying them at the same time. Make sure you go and get the Metric Allen head bolts before you get into the installation. The kit includes STD bolts. I was able to get the bolt in Stainless but not the washers as they are custom to the recess in the cover.

Right, found that out this morning. My PCM is on the way from Wheatley. I dropped the truck off this morning for the kit and servo and the Updated HD U-joints and new straps. I took the truck to the dealer and as expected no dice on the emissions warranty, as I expected, having worked for GM for 10 years (94 prior) I should have know better anyhow. It covers the cats and PCM only. I did get a print out of my truck Warranty history though, and it has had the radio (6 disc) changed three times, The amp once, inner tie rods twice and the steering shaft twice. all this in under 50,000Km. The parts I found for the TSB's were an updated vent cannister and bracket and a remote vent kit which I guess includes a new solenoid/switch as well add up to like almost The cannister is 200 the bracket is 55 and the vent kit is 325. I hope that the vent is just dirty and stuck open causing the PO455 large leak dtc.

Thanks for the replies. I am ordering the tune from Charlie this week. The truck goes in tomorrow for the Transgo Kit and Servo install. The shop told me they would turn off the Torc Management id it can be done with the Tech2 for free. If they had to use there tuner then it would cost $$ as they would use up some credits. I just have one concern, the truck has a couple of DTC's stored right now, I had them cleared and they came back within a couple of igntion cycles, so there is a probem for sure. My fuel cap passed emission as of two weeks. both Evap codes one is PO449 and the other is PO455. I have researched a little bit and it seems that there are some TSB's for these issues. I have called the dealer and it seems i may still be within the 130,000Km Emissions warranty. I have to take it in so they can scan it I guess. I hope it is under warranty as the parts the TSB's call for add up to almost 1000$.

So it is all done and back on the rd, The brakes feel lot better than prior. I would still like bigger rotors in the front. I got the TA performance girdle installed with the stud kits. (NOTE: If you are installing this make sure and get the metric bolts prior as they ship the kit with std bolts) I got Stainless to be done with it, installed the Royal Purple 75w90 My clunk into rev or drive is now gone or at least masked for now, The torque spec on the cover boats is 25ft lbs I opted for 20 as the bolts felt like they were stretching at 25 that was with a snap-on 3/8 torq wrench. I did not do the pinion seal as I am going to rip the diff apart this winter and rebuild it with new bearings as I am not happy with the backlash currently. I flushed the brake system and installed the AP5 fluid, took a while to get all the fluid out and I never did let the master get dry completely, I did not feel like having to remove it and bleed it. So this DEAL on rotors and pads end up costing me a lot more then I anticipated both in time and money with the addition of the axle seals, e-brake brakeshoes, backing plates (shields), H7319 Raybestos e-brake combi Kit and the diff cover and SS fasteners. It was pretty easy to bleed, I just used my 1 man bleeder to get fluid to the wheels, then cracked all 4 bleeders and let it gravity till I had good flow and then did each wheel 4 times and then broke in the rotors with a light road test still felt a little spongy so I did each wheel another 4 times and that did the trick, nice and hard pedal. One NOTE about the Hawk pads - THEY do not include the brake pad retainers as all the other kits GM, Raybestos etc do. This was a nightmare as GM does not sell those separately and trying to find the kit was impossible. If you are looking I believe it is a H5664(A) (A means both sides rear) This is actually for a 4 wheel str 03. The 2 wheel version was not even close to being correct. I put one on order as one of my clips was broken. So I have a set of Delco premium rotors and Delco expensive pads for the front with about 300 miles on them for sale if anyone is interested cheap.