Krambo

Finally got around to my spring cleaning. Cosmetics since last pics: Goodmark cowl BSER roll Pan Koning wheels with BFG rubber (Autoguy's special) Slotted and X-drilled rotors, hawk pads, ss graphics

Impressed with those times I just got back from the track (again...) and posted a 7.8X in the 8th and a 12.2XX in the 1/4. If you are puting a radixed SS in the very low 7s in the 8th, please share it with the board as that is one of the fastest stock 6.0 blocks. I need more specifics on that run and mods. Willing to share the tune file?

I got that code as well as several others when the connections got moisture in them. Take them off and blow them out with compressed air, clear the codes and try again.

Mods: 1. Flex-a-lite 282 electric fans, PCM controlled with manual override 2. SLP 160* Thermostat 3. ASM LS1 Headders 4. True High Flow Cats 5. Custom X pipe 6. Dual Magnaflow mufflers 7. Volant air box 8. SLP LS1 camshaft (216/222 115LSA) 9. Comp 918 valve springs, Ti retainers, locks 10. Magnacharger Radix liquid intercooled Supercharger 2.8” pulley (9psi boost) 11. Pinned Crank Shaft pulley 12. Corvette LS2 90MM Throttle body, ported Radix “J” tube. 13. Snow Performance Methanol Injection with progressive control. 14. FLT Level 5 4l65E transmission 15. Yank Truck Thruster 2600 stall torque converter 16. Tuning via EFI Live Flashscan 17. Synthetic oils, watter wetter 19. NGK tr6 spark plugs 20. Taylor Thunder Volt plug wires 22. Slotted and cross drilled rotors 23. Hawk performance street/strip break pads 24. High speed balanced drive shaft 1. Goodmark cowl induction hood 2. Custom BSER roll pan 3. Gaylord’s Speedstur bed lid with x-2000 hinge system 4. Tint 20% 5. Vent Visors 6. Konig No-Road 20x10” wheels 7. BFG KDW II 305/50/20 tires 8. Vanity license plate “SSLEEPR” with lighted license plate bolts 9. Shopman SS bowtie 10. Denali exhaust tips 11. Aeroforce Scan Gauge custom mounted in overhead console 12. Autometer electric boost gauge with playback 13. Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge with playback 14. Simpson racing child seat 15. Epoxy painted calipers with SS decal I just cut and pasted this list. There are a few minor additions but this is the big stuff. I may try the fuel adjustment with timing Eric. Thanks for the tip. Joe, I have an Elmo band aid right now. My girls love it.

I work in the pharmaceutical industry. 316 electropolished is the best you are gonna get. If you passivate it, it will be that much better

Not one bit or trouble. I have about 40-50 dyno pulls with my front shaft pulled. Not a single issue,...and I am not easy on the Tcase either (High TQ and High RPM pulls). Thanks for the link!

link to graph: DYNO GRAPH

Here is my latest dyno graph. The TQ Converter was NOT LOCKED! 485 peak HP and 533 peak TQ. Its what is under the curve that counts though ;) Things I like: 1. Fueling is no issue here. I can hold 11.9 strait through 6500RPMs 2. TQ is where I want it 3. HP didn't fall off in the upper RPMs. It pretty much held till the 6500 mark. 4. This was not an absolute run...i.e. The engine was HOT as one of my FAL fan motors chose to crap out. I expect another 10-15 RWHP on a cool motor. The converter was not locked. I would expect another 20HP to the wheels with it locked. The dyno runs were not for show, just a tool for tuning. Things I didn't like: 1. I was only able to dial in a pitiful 3* of overall timeing with the meth and 90 mm TB. I had some KR around 4-5krpms. Hope it is false, but the tune was left conservative on that note. Having 52 RWHP from a 90 TB radix mod is not the case in my application. I would like to see hard data from other's that do the 90 TB as well as I saw NO decrease in IAT's with it and I would say it is worth 10-15HP to the wheels. 2. The dyno had difficulty picking up spark so I would have occasional RPM logs with the dyno curve. 3. I cut my thumb pretty bad removing my front drive shaft and had to get a half dozen stitches Click on the picture to zoom in. EDIT: The ambient temp was 80* and was in the 50's RH.

Pull the plug on the knock sensors and reconnect. Maybe some compressed air to blow out any moisture in the connection. Make sure they are plugged in TIGHT as well. Follow the wires all the way to the bottom of the blower and make sure they are not pinched and are not frayed/ kinked / bent anywhere. Hate to say this but if the wires look good, it may be in good intrest to pull off the blower head unit and inspect the the sensors themselves under the lifter valley. There may be a way to check the current with a volt meter but I do not know where to start on that one nor what to look for.

Very nice comparo. I enjoy seeing real world comparisons with performance mods. You can only take label claims so far.

I traveled quite regularly in the past. Never been to Japan. Mostly to the UK. make sure you have a FF card so you don't miss out on the miles. Good luck and have a saft trip. BTW, I have used the INDY airport MANY times. I visited a plant (Baxter) in Bloomington on a weekly basis.

...Don't want to take sides here but I see a noticeable difference at the track as well as the dyno with heat soak. I see as much as .3 in the 1/4 mile and 15 peak HP on the dyno doing "hot laps" A nice cool down between runs does help. One thing I will agree on though is that if the intercooler is left on while after a run along with your fans, the recoup time is much shorter (20 mins). make sure you have a battery charger though Found that one out the hard way ;)

That wraps up the wheel and tire package nicely! Let us know how you like the SS lines. I was strongly considering that MOD.

I have had my front drive shaft out numerous times to dyno and always just bolted it back up the german method "Gud-en-tite" (or the German Virgin nickname ). Anyway, does anyone know the exact specs on the 4 U joint connecting bolts? Would be nice to know it was done correctly

O.K. If anyone is curious I figured out what the issue is here. I used an 04 PCM to flash my latest tune into. Apparently switching years makes some minor things a little funny. I have an 03 truck. Just an FYI Joe, I am going to Island Dragway tomorrow provided the rain holds out! Took off the bed cover and dropped 90lbs. Should prove for some good times See if you can make it. A little short notice I know...

I dialed in an 11.9 flat as can be all the way through 6500RPMs. I will scan the dyno sheet and post it this weekend. No fueling issues here! 485/535.

I did it, no real gain on the rollers. Deleted my rear O2 sensors and they show "ready mode" for inspection. Should walk righ through. Side note, I will be putting cats back on when the funds replenish. The exhaust note is just plain crazy.

Just one more thing...did you look at your Intake Air Temps via the Scan Gauge? If for some reason your intake temps shoot up real high (like 200 ) that may be a cause. BTW, your scan gauge will record for you so you don't have to watch the numbers bounce. Then just play them back. When I use the scan gauge, I usually log RPMs and another parameter (O2s, IAT's, KR etc.). The gauge is just a neat tool. Real logging software is night and day difference.

Good luck with the install!

That may be a little lean for me. I like to plan for the worst...i.e. meth pump failure. I expect the 50% Meth mix to alter the AFR by .5. If the meth pump fails, I would be running 12.7+ Might be interesting to see where the power levels sit between an 11.5 and a 12.0 though (and how much of a difference). How long would a blown 6.0 last with a 12.5 - 13.0 AFR? I suspect KR would be an issue that may help in this situation.

My $0.02 I had line pressure cranked with a STOCK tranny and 3000 stall. The shifts under any throttle were Very hard. Now I have stock pressure, a HD2 shift kit (built 65E) and a 2600 stall and the truck is VERY tame under light throttle. WOT shifts are as hard as my stock tranny with cranked line pressure. I kind of like it this way...

All they (PA) do is the safety check (lights, seatbelts, windshield, the presence of cats etc.) and they then plug in the OBDII scanner and look for codes. The PCM must be in "ready mode" with the emmissions parameters (you are allowed 2 or less not in ready). I am not sure if the scanner can see if the rear O2s are functioning or not. With them disabled there will NOT be a DTC thrown however the "cats by craftsman screwdriver" will not be doing anything to save the planet. A sniffer will fail it immediately. If the scanner physically shoots a signal to the O2s or tries to read a signal, I am SOL. I wonder if O2 simulators will work...hmmm... I will again play dumb if the OBDII scanner will not pass it, throw some new cats on, enable the O2s and go back to get my sticker.

Yes. As Dave stated, it was the cat efficiency code. Turns out I have some burnt out pixles in my scan gauge making a "0" look like a "J'. Rear o2 sensors are disabled now, no more codes.