Krambo

Looking forward to seeing what that new pulley and tune will do for you Mark! Remember, the colder the blower the better!

If your truck was running fine with your "tune" and then all of a sudden it is running like crap, then more than likely it has nothing to do with the tune. Were you able to have the truck logged by some type of diagnostic software? Being able to read exactly what is going on while the truck is running is really the only way to figure this out without randomly changing parts.

Just my opinion...TVS2300.

...more power now than with your procharger? I would have that discussion with another tuner IMHO. Your oiling or lack there of is going to kill your newly refreshed motor (if it hasn't already)! Like mentioned above, the O-ring is a common install problem. Quite honestly, a ported and shimmed LS6 oil pump is an inexpensive upgrade that will deliver much improved oiling.

Chase, I have 3 girls and wouldn't have it any other way!

Hey old timer! Good to see you around. Congrats on the great news.

"Custom Tune" Was this a mail order? You have a pretty heavily modded truck, tune is everything.

*moving topic*

Some questions: 1. Are all the plugs "black as coal" on the driver's side? 2. Do you have any means of scanning your fuel trims (LTFT and STFT's)? 3. Did you take that new O2 sensor and swap it out on the PASSENGER side? Honestly, it sounds like a header leak. This can be isloated by looking at your fuel trims. Your O2 sensor is seeing a "lean condition" and dumping fuel to correct it. I'll bet your LTFT's are crazy positive.

Yes, a heat range 6 will be ideal for you on the juice (up to 100 shot). Many spray the TR6 NGK plugs however there are much better and safer plugs to run. Like mentioned above, BR6EF would be best for your situation. Don't forget to pull a little bit of timing at WOT to prevent detonation. Run good fuel as well.

I would choose a standard copper electrode plug, with a recessed tip. I would not spray an iridium or platinum tipped plug. What modifications dou have? If you are relatively stock, I would suggest a NGK BR6EF up to a 100 shot.

I really haven't done fine tuning on the NA times yet with the new converter. I am only pushing 25* of advance however did dial in the fueling right where I need it. I didn't experiment with converter locking and shift points yet either. Best I could muster was mid 12's at roughly 104 at full weight. For those that know me, I usually hold off on posting times until I feel it ran its best. I am sure with some tweeks, good weather, low 12's is a very reasonable ET. I did do small shots and believe it or not, it ran the same times. Basically, a 50 dry shot only managed to assist in blowing off the tires at launch, causing a sub par 60ft. The MAF didn't like measuring the N2O either and fattened up the fueling which hurt the ET. I have since dialed in the 75 dry shot however did not get it to the track to see the results. Looking at logs, it cut roughly .5 off the ET however only the track can be proof. I ran 150 through the DP system and it got me into the mid / lower 11's. Very typical of N2O fed 408's in an AWD SS (check the track time sticky). Once I gather all my slips and do some final track shots, I will post a comprehensive comparison. Most likely in the fall. For now, it is approaching cruise season so I will most likely clean it up, slap the 20's on it and do the shows rather than go to the track. We'll see...

Just my opinion, take it for whatever it is worth however you may be just as well going with a light, short summer radial with a soft compound if you are AWD. I run M&H drag radials and if they do not have good heat in them, they are no better than (may be worse) than a street tire. Being AWD, you will NOT be able to get even heat in all 4 tires unless you have signifgant power and true posi in BOTH the front and rear. I 60ft no better with a burn-out than just rolling on cold tires. My suggestion will be to look for a shorter street tire (roughly 28-29" tall), to improve your gearing, and to find the lightest one. Tirerack will list the weight of each tire...good place to compare. Of course if you are 2WD, go with a full slick or DR because you can do the propper burn-out. For reference, I ran a 29" street tire on 1999 16 inch Al Silverado wheels and also ran a 28" Drag Radial on the same wheels. I initially thought I saw an improvement, however after careful review of logs over a years worth of track times, there really wasn't an improvement. That being said, paying $110 a tire for the street tires over $170 a tire for the DR's is a factor. Also having the confidence to drive to the track with the street tires is a little less stressful. My 16" M&H Drag Radials: Quick video of AWD squeeling the DR's at launch (my old Radix set-up):

LOL! ONLY 671RWHP and running 9's. Come on, that is just awesome! Congrats on hitting the 9's...that is quite an acomplishment. Just my recommendation however have your tuner do a detailed 3bar COS Speed Density Tune. It will have all around better control of the fueling IMO. If done right, the car should have fairly good street manners and of course be an animal at the track.

Many. Mostly F-bodies and vettes. I know these guys have done MANY 800+RWHP MAF tunes: My link I see guys from this place quite often at the track: My link I went over one guy's tune (cammed, bolted C5 with a procharger - 15lbs of boost) and he was running a MAF tune. It appeared to be properly scaled to keep the MAF from being pegged. Going off his times, the car made some nice power. He claimed upper 800's on the dyno (which I question) however surely a beast. I know I am not blown or been on a dyno with my new set-up however I run MAF and feel pretty confident I put down 750+ to the wheels (based on weight and 1/4 mile times). If you search the HP Tuners forum you can find 900-1K RWHP set-ups running a MAF. At that level, most choose to go to a COS 2/3bar set-up because it has some additional tables that prove very helpful when fueling a big boosted set-up. Now the newer LS3's MAF cal and PCM support 1024gr/s (vs the 512 limit) which is great for the boosted guys. Most don't even need to scale if they choose to run the MAF. This guy appears to be tuning a 900 RWHP vette with a MAF: My link

There are several tuners that have taken a MAF tune to those power levels. Simple linear scaling of about 30 or so tables in your tune file will keep you from "maxing" the MAF limits. Of course you lots of resolution but it is an option.

LOL Brad. let me break it down: 1. I am using a Nitrous Outlet TPAS and window switch (for this run) which delays the shot to whenever you wish (setpoint). I had it dump all at once at 5300RPMs. 2. I am not sure if the nitrous hit before the 60ft or not however if I had to guess, I would say yes. The 60 ft times are lackluster for sure for a 10.8 however when the nitrous hit, the truck squirmed horribly which I am sure didn't help. With the current suspension set-up there is no way I can dump a 200 shot off the line...progressive, then yes. That will be the next step. The converter flashes anywhere between 43-4500 in NA form. When I hit a 100 shot last year, the converter flashed to close to 5k! Way too high for a big shot off the line. My intention was to spray after the converter "engages" for this run. 3. Converter was not locked in the top of the run. I considered it however, I'll admit it, I was scared that something would let loose. I would bet a good amount of money that if I locked the converter in 3rd, my trap MPH would be much higher. I just wasn't interested in getting towed home this early in the driving season. 4. RPM through the traps is a mystery. My laptop slammed shut at roughly half track and the damn log stopped a few seconds after that. Must have triggered the space bar and stopped the log. I have my rev limiter at 7200 and my window switch at 6900. I hit neither on this run. I have no issues running the 408 to 7k and beyond however the poor 65E surely won't like it. Chase, I am VERY happy with the 1/8 mile time and it correlates to having short tires (28"). My 1/4 trap will suffer with the shorter tires however. A taller tire would give me more up top while hurting my low end. What size DR's are you running? I highly doubt I will be at the track anytime soon. Island is fairly local to me so that is why I went. The family went to church and I went to the track. I should have been able to post a 10 sec pass last year but I was lazy. Island closed on their scheduled opener however the weekend I went, the weather was absolutely perfect. High 40's, High pressure, low moisture lots of sun to keep heat in the track. It was crowded. I was set to go again last weekend however they closed "due to weather".

Welcome to the supercharged club Jim! All in all it went well and you have new found power at your right foot. Enjoy!

Well, I have been messing around with the nitrous systems for over a year so I figured I would post up what she does. I have been chasing issues with my system for what seems like forever and finally nailed it. I was having some varying fuel pressures coming off of the dedicated system (+/- 10psi) and a clogged nitrous filter. The FPR on the dedicated system had a poorly seated low pressure spring and my in-line filter nitrous filter was so clogged, it restricted flow enough to make the hit feel like nothing. I was using a FPSS which would trigger everytime the pressure swing would occur. So a 200 hit using C-16 fuel was the ticket. I sprayed at roughly 5300RPM in 1st gear and through the shifts, hence the lower 60' (I would eat the wall dumping it off the line - if the drivetrain holds). It all held together for a nice run however a few small spikes of KR and 2 small backfires / misfires didn't add to the time. I was running NGK B8EFS plugs with roughly 15* of advance. Spraying 150, the BR7EF and 19* was solid so I took an educated guess at the 200 shot. Didn't get time to read the plugs. So: 10.862 @ 128.22 with a 1.763 60' Didn't get any video however the slip is attached: Only "weight reduction" was my drag radials. I am thinking that a 250 shot (staged), some weight reduction (hard bed cover and mounting hardware, one of the nitrous bottles, less fuel etc.), tuning and on a perfect day, mid 10's isn't out of the question. Since it ran 10's with the 200 shot, the 150 times are bunk however very low 11's was the best I could muster.

My FLT Level 7 65E has taken a regular beating and has gone 10.86 @ 128. Their product is comes highly rated Tell Andy that Kevin sent ya and ask for the Kevin Rambo 65E special

Well here is my opinion as I am going to buy another "AR". I personally (this is my opinion) would look no where else than Colt if you are shopping the "big name brands". I am going to pick up a LE 6920 M4 Carbine shortly. Here is a comparison between the Bushmaster and the Colt 6920 both in the 5.56 NATO / 223 chamber: Bushmaster uses the rifle front sight base instead of the F-marked front sight base. Practical difference: You may need a taller front sight post with the Bushmaster using some sights. Bushmaster does not parkerize under the front sight base. Practical difference: You'll get a little rust there; but not much. Bushmaster does not magnetic particle test or proof test its bolts. Colt does. Practical difference: Not much. The Colt has higher QC to prevent bolt breakage but it still happens with both models. Bushmaster uses standard carbine handguards instead of double-shield M4 handguards. These circulate air around the barrel better; but also make the rifle hotter to hold and are narrower. Bushmaster uses a standard rifle front sling. Colt uses a side-mounted front sling. Practical difference: The Bushmaster will roll using some tactical slings, the Colt won't. Bushmaster uses standard AR15 feed ramps. Colt uses the extended M4 feed ramps. Practical difference - the Colt feeds hollowpoints, long OAL rounds better and is more reliable in high cyclic rate situations (full-auto, suppressor use). Bushmaster uses a 1/9 twist barrel. Colt uses a 1/7 twist barrel. Practical difference: The Colt will stabilize heavier, longer rounds better than the 1/9. With the Bushmaster, you may be limited to 69gr or less rounds (some Bushmaster barrels can handle up to 75gr, some cannot - kind of a crap shoot, look into it as this sold me). Bushmaster comes with a standard carbine buffer. Colt comes with an H-Buffer. Practical difference: Colt buffer is 1oz heavier which comes in handy with suppressors but otherwise does nothing beyond aiding reliability just a tiny bit. Bushmaster comes with a blue extractor insert and normal AR15 extractor spring. Colt comes with a black extractor insert and heavy duty extractor spring. Practical difference: The Colt extracts more reliably; but the Bushmaster is easy enough to upgrade to the same standard for about $25. Finally, Colt has much, much better QC than Bushmaster; but if something does go wrong, then good luck getting it fixed. Bushmaster on the other hand commonly has issues such as improperly staked gas keys, gas keys too loose, overtorqued barrels and various other minor issues; but they are very good about fixing their problems. The Colt DOES cost about $300 more than the bushmaster so YOU will need to determine if the above perks are worth it. Its all about what the shooter is looking for. I have a Sig Handgun and if that rifle posted above (post 3) is of the same quality, that is surely a nice piece. Not sure what the cost is but I would venture a bit on the expensive side.

Will the corn muffins be arriving the same time?

Yea, I "won" the game a while ago and am waiting for level 14 on "Ham 'Em High" to be released. I played this mostly during flight time when traveling for work. My girls love the game as well but it eats up battery pretty bad.

Garage is cleaned up, heater is available (looks to be a little cold) and the laptop is charged! Should be a good time.

The ignition switch wire commonly breaks which could cause your issues. Here are a couple pictures of my brother's truck that had this issue. The broken wire was the root cause. A 1 minute splice and heat shrink fixed her up.