JSTAL

if you want a good setup that you wont have to mess with i would contact rick at trick perfromance. Take it from me i built my twins from the ground up and it was a pain in the butt.

hey justin how you doin man havent seen you around in a while. I dont have the blower anymore, Niko does. my truck good power with the radix i just out grew it i guess. I desided on twins. Good to see you are still around.

niko i love your truck

ive yet to see a 5.3 rst. they are 5 speeds and have a mean sounding exhuast. i doubt they could take a ss. i like to mess with the mid life crisis old bastards that buy them thinkin they are fast. they seem to scratch their heads when you flying past them blowing your tires off.

nope the wont not for long time

ok try the search button this is a common post. btw go vols

hmmm that hood and paint scheme look familiar

skoggindicky ftw we just swaped one into my buddies wifes truck yesterday

hell im on aim jtlasalle454 add me

my sister is stationed at lackland in SA so say hello for me. He name is Julie LaSalle

no the oil was leaking and dripping out my breathers

13. install the new brass oiler plateand rubber gasket and place the anodized plate back on. Be sure the rubber gasket lays flat and fasten it on with the 4 bolts. 3/8 wrench 14. place the impeller back on the shaft and tighten them down aligning the markings you made like a good school boy. This assures the balance will be right. Dont get brody and over tighten them 15. replace the anodized plate back on the comp housing using a star pattern when tightening. remember your tightning a steel bolt in a aluminum housing so no need to get HULK on it and ruin you day. 16. install back on truck and be on your marry way. Ok i know some of my terminology is wrong so for all you perfectionist i appologize. i hope this helps some out and saves money. This isnt for if you turbo is damaged then you need to send it off to a professional.

Ok after i got my turbos running i had oil blowing out of both inlets so i knew it was rebuild time. I made a few phone calls and every one wanted 375 to rebuild them. I then decided to take it upon my self to tackle it. Honestly it isnt hard but there are a few very important things you have to do before taking them apart. 1. Mark your compressor side impeller, jam nut and shaft for alignment when putting them back together. The reason you do this is for proper balancing. These things spin at extreme rpm and the balance of the compressor impeller exhuast impeller and other parts are vital to the life of the turbo. They are machine balanced and thats why your jam nut and exhuast impeller nut have material taken from them. 2. The shafts are reverse thread so dont get all brody with them when loosening them cause your probably turning it the wrong way. Most your T3/T4 turbos are similar. Wether the are turbonetics or Garrets or what ever brand you choose. BUT you cant use a garret rebuild kit on a turbonetics. My turbos are a little older so when i called with a model number they were not sure of the rebuild kit. Not to worry you can figure what kit you need by measuring your shaft. there are 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch shafts. The 5/16 inch shafts are called the "big" shaft kit. I got my rebuild kits for my turbonetics 62mm turbos from Gspec performance and they were 145$ a piece. A little pricey but nessesary. Here is the tear down and rebuild step by step with pictures. The tear down begins after i have removed the compressor from the exhaust housing. 1. Remove the anodized plate from the comp housing. 1/2 inch wrench 2. Remove the jam nut from the shaft. Use a 5/8 and 7/16 to lossen. Remember they are left handed threads and remember to mark them using a sharpy or paint pen. 3. Remove the compressor impeller it pulls off but be gentle not to bend the blades or cut the hell out of yourself 4. remove the anodized plate be sure not to loose the oil bearing 5. Remove the brass piece and rubber seal and spacer. this will expose you bearing/bushing. 6. the shaft will come out after this is done. Be gentle when forcing it out so you dont bend the shaft 7. The bearings are held in with spiral clamps or C clips. mine were the spiral clips. you can remove these with a pick. once that is done the bearing will slide out. 8. do the same on the exhaust side. 9. put the new bushing bearings in and replace the clips with the new ones in your kits. 10. the exhaust shaft has a ring similar to a piston ring this seal is keeps the oil from blowing out the downpipes replace it at this time. use a pick to remove it. 11. place the shaft back in the housing push gently and it will click in. that the piston ring sliding in its place. 12. The anodized plate has a similar piston ring in the bearing. replace it as well. you can push the bearing out of the anodized plate.

it has restrictors already and yes the seals were wore out one had a fold in it. also the bearings look wore. It may be starting to make sense why all of the sudden the original owner sold it so fast. If any one does decide to tackle this project be sure to mark the shaft, jam nut, and compressor impeller so you can line it back up and save a trip to the balancer

well your cubes hurt that but its like sub said you cant spin that 122 fast enough unless you go jack shaft. the upgrade is like a grand i believe

well i got them apart called turbonectics it should be easy to do. I should start doin this fro people and would make good money at half the price of other lol. Thanks chris for the kick start i contacted greg at turboneticsparts.com and i am getting 2 rebuild kits for around 290 bucks sure beats the heck out of 800 to 900 dollars. These are basic and easy to rebuild

ohhhhhh reeee heeee heeelllay cool deal man thanks

Welp the joys of buying things used has poked its head out. Both my turbos are blowing oil out the intake and exhaust housing. Im pretty sure the seals are blown out or worn. I need to have them rebuilt i talked to majestic and honestly they must be extremely proud of their work because they want 400 a piece to rebuild them. Any recommendations would be helpful thanks

i agree with this. i used to run RP but its started to slug after 3k mobil 1 with a mobil 1 filter for the win

ahahahahahaha nice ok on a more serious note most REP have to do with you TB or engine grounds. check you tb plug. I had mine do it yester day but it was triggered from a vacuum leak.

this kind of crap needs to be posted in the nsfw members only section

bump for danny i have these and love them and they still look brand new

they actually squat under load thats why they sit lower in the rear when he comes to a stop it should level out

Ok well i took some pics today after getting it mostly buttoned up they are at night so it doesnt do it justice. Im pleased with the turnout ive busted my ass on this with little previous knowledge of turbos. I wanna say thanks to Danny, Kevin, Rick, Steve, Jon and Zach for all the help and support and many phone calls with newb ?s. We have alot of tunning to do but she runs good.

its just the opposite i have a wide band at ide its 13.9 14.1 dead nuts on here is the conclusion we have come up with the starting VE tables are not supplying it with enough fuel hense when i spray ether and it starts it goes into the running table and runs fine so we need to tweek the tune looking the plugs were not wet or discolored.