2003_SuperSport

Blahaha you got me beat... Free is always better!!!

As long as you wash them regularily you wont have a problem, which in the winter every time its sloppy wash them which is weekly here in MN with each snow fall lol... I dont drive my truck in the winter so I dont have a problem with them, but If I were to drive my truck in the winter (which is all theoreticle cause I would never do it lol) I'd use a good paint sealer or as much as plasti-dip is hated on this site, it is a great way to prtect them if you do enough coats... I have some chrome rims on my colorado that I will try to plasti-dip for the winter just to try it... I have never done it but I have seen it done and it looks to hold up well for the price...

That paint job on your cover was hideous... I cant beleive they would mess it up so bad... I'd be so pissed ... The other parts they painted looked so good I just don't understand why it would of passed especially if they knew it was going on the truck they already painted once before so beautifully... Being picky is out of the question when it comes to that awesome paint before, they should have known it should have been next to perfect, why do it half-ass and risk wasting their time and money redoing a paint job that should have been done right the first time... I feel for ya Randy... I was a victim of a less than perfect paint job on my hood and I was a dumbass at the time and never had it redone... I spent $500 dollars for a local paint shop to do my hood that also did my dads 1970 chevelle which they did a bang up awesome job and when I got my hood they were supposed to do a complete coat and clear of the underside of the hood and it turned out to be half-assed with overspray and piss poor coverage on the bottom... I was so pissed I didnt even want them to touch it again because I already had my hood put back on and I didnt want my truck sitting at a shop out of my direct supervision... I love my truck like a second child and I pamper it like its worth a million dollars, anyways after a few days of having it I noticed on a sunny day that I had a couple small buff burns that further outraged me but then again i am very anal about my truck and the slightest flaw that the normal joe would never notice bothers me... I know every little minute scratch and flaw on my truck, mostly because my truck is damn near flawless LOL...

I will never EVER EVER again buy a phone case from the apple store or AT&T or Verizon or any other phone store ever.... Simple fact that they are way overpriced for nothing... I bought a simple case and cover when I bought my Iphone 5S and it cost me $40 for a stupid backing and front plastic cover that was thin and always had air bubbles in it... I found my I-Blason cover for $10 on Amazon and it has just as much if not more protection than an otter box and they are made from rubber and harden plastic just like an $80 name brand... FYI if anyone ever needs a cover go here... http://www.i-blason.com/ Awesome covers for pennies and they are a two piece protection and have awesome little stands built in the hip clip and case itself... The only problem is they are not as much water protection but then again I dont go swimming with my phone and some of these new phones are water resistant anyways... PLEASE check out the site if you ever want a cool functional cover... I work in a production facility and have dropped my phone occasional on the concrete and even once from a decent high drop and nothing went wrong... Very cool cases for nothing almost LOL... I have the PRIME DUAL LAYER HOLSTER CASE and I'd give it a 9.8 out of 10 being its not 100% water proof hahah This is the one I have for the 5S http://www.i-blason.com/transformer-dual-layer-case-for-iphone-5.html Only $9.99 on Amazon Plus I highly doubt the Iphone plus will bend in this case LOL... If your going to spend bookoo dollars on a phone at least get a case to protect it... I'd put my $10 I-blason case up against those $35 Spigen or $20 Zero Lemon cases or even the $80 Otterbox any day and pay way less

For the size I kind of prefered the apple because it was smaller... If I wanted to carry a larger phone Id take my laptop everywhere lol... I phone 5s IMO is the perfect size and fits in my pocket with case perfect...

That is a beautiful truck... I myself don't tow a bunch just dump runs and my 16.5 foot boat and I have a 2007 colorado right now with the 3.7L I5 and its more than fine for me... I want a little more hp just in case in the future... With that in mind you need to check out the new 2015 Canyons... I think they are nice looking and perfect for me as a mid-size is all I want.. Plus the 2016 Canyon will have the first EVER 2.8L turbo diesel in a mid sized truck ahhhhhhh.... Here is the 2015 model... http://www.gmc.com/canyon-small-pickup-truck.html?seo=goo_|_GMC_Retention_|_GMNA%7CUS%7CGMC%7CGOOG%7CS%7CBP%7CA%7CEX%7CRTN%7CCYN%7CMPU%7C%28null%29%7C%28null%29%7C2015-Canyon_|_2015+General_|_2015%20gmc%20canyon

I went from a 3G to a 5s and I was blown away by the difference in speed and well, everything LOL... I wouldn't mind going to galaxy or Android but I have already spent many hours learning the Apple and its familiar so I will stick with it... The 5s is awesome and I dont see the 6 being all that better besides the camera and size... I'll wait for the 6s plus or 7 lol...

I know the feeling on the surging brother LOL... Sorry for the late response... I have that exact same cam and it was a b*tch to tune for me too... It used to surge alot in open loop especially at first startup it would die 2-3 times before holding steady. Then it would surge again in gear trying to back up and then in closed loop it would surge again if I came to stops to fast after a little liberal gas aplication lol... I got it to mostly clear by adjusting the idle up in the areas it liked to surge by 50 rpms each time until the surging went away..

You dont have any scan configurations to use???? The general default imperical is all you really need for standard MAF and idle air tuning.... I can PM you some scan configurations I use... For my truck I use a 2bar with wideband pids, but I always use a modified default imperical with wideband pid and a maf hz setup instead of grams of air... Let me know

I would have kept the 454 in her... Stock they put out like 405ftlbs of TQ but a mere 255hp... With just some bolt ands and a simple top end build with cam, heads, and intake it would be more than a burn out queen like they were

I never had to say anything to a girl to ask them out back when I was single... All I had to do was make eye contact and lick my eyebrow and she was all mine.. LOL

Nice pics... Since I wasn't lucky enough to have a SSS when I graduated, when I turn 65-67 I am going to do some senior pics too hehe... Still have 30+ years to go lol

Wifes key chain... Can be good or bad I guess LMAO

When I was shopping around I originally went with Motive front and rear 4:56 and went about 100-200miles before I started noticing alot of excessive front end whine... Got it back to my Dad's shop and tore into it and found the front to be a factory defected and had excessive wear even with the proper spacing and alignment :.( With that it mind I took a chance and order some Richmonds even though I wanted the same gear company for the front and rear but the rear was perfectly quite so I figured why bother replacing the rear... Got the richmonds in the front which is a B%tch and set to proper tolerances and viola after initial break in period they work and sound great... IMO Go with Richmonds if you go different gears... They are a little more expensive and expect to pay $180-200 or $400 total for both sets just ring and pinnion.... I love my 4:56's but expect 1-3miles less per gallon... AND BTW- $200 in labor sounds fantastic, as long as he knows what he is doing and sounds like he has done a few... Normally since its tough to get the tolerences just right and the front is hard to do I was quoted $600-$800 dollars at other shops ( My Dad's shop was booked in the early fall so I had to wait for spring to get my gears in lol)...

Boost is measured as restriction the better flowing system you have such as headers etc. the lower boost you'll have but the more efficient you will run and allowing just as much HP as something more restrictive with higher boost... Thats why Turbos and centri chargers produce more power at lower boost and alow more boost to be safely added without octane problems... Most people think the more boost you have the more HP you get which is right and wrong... It's all about efficiency... My radix may be able to produce 10psi boost max but be less hp because it has to work harder therefor creating more heat to creat the same boost as a turbo which doesnt have to work nearly as hard to produce the same boost level... Hope that makes sense....

Agreed ^^^^ Besides the SAFE system... They offer 2 systems one of which is for boosted apps and the other which you can use and I beleive the one I mentioned is a 12PSI adjustable max system so it would work perfect... IF boosted it all depends on which FI system you have... If it is a roots blower and boost builds at the intake a simple 12psi SAFE system is perfect... If it is a turbo or a centri style supercharger like a procharger or vortech then the boost is pressurized through the whole intake system then the pump will need to be higher than the 12psi system... (This is what NX EXPRESS told me)

I too live in MN and have a family business in performance motorsports... Do the formentioned above, make sure your coolant is atleast 50/50 mix so it wont freeze and crack you block and coolant system 50/50 is a good year round mix but no more than that because it will gel up if to much anti-freeze is used with water... Do not start up in the winter, you can buy a motorcycle cover for under $50, DO NOT USE STA-BIL unless its going to sit 3 months or less... in MN it will sit 6 months or longer and STA-BIL will Gel up and cause nightmares for you if it sits longer than 3 months... I have seen it hundreds of times in marine engines and motorsports like fourwheelers, motorcycles, and snowmobiles... Sta-bil is a decent product for short term storage but thats it... It may not cause problems everytime but when it does it will plug up the carbs and fuel system... run your gas down to less then 1/4 tank and add seafoam and run for 5-10mins to alow it cycle through and then you wont have to drain the carbs or fuel system... I'd recommend seafoam for a stabilizer, any part store will have it... You can drain the oil and replace with new stuff if you want... heated storage is best but if it must be outside make sure the tires are off the dirt or grass and at minnimum put it up on wood or tarp to prevent weatherchecking of the tires and freezing to the ground...

Just a weekend toy I'd go with a NX safe system, MSD window switch, and a 10lbs nitrous system with purge... This is what you need minnimum... Nitrous system- http://www.nitrousexpress.com/20934-10-ls-90mm-plate-system-w-10lb-bottle.html $720 Purge- http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15603-nitrous-purge-system-for-lightningiceman-solenoids.html $143 Bottle blanket and pressure gauge- http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15939-10-15lb-heavy-duty-fully-automatic-bottle-heater-d-4-w-gauge-14amps.html $289 NX SAFE- http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15003-safe-stand-alone-fuel-enrichment-system-external-pump-5-12psi-adjustable-regulator-gasoline.html $444 MSD Window- http://www.msdignition.com/Products/RPM/Timing_Controls/RPM_Controls/8969_-_Digital_RPM_Window_Switch.aspx about $150 -These are just what I have and would recommend solely based on opinion, but I am the kind of guy i dont want to take chances so I always want more than 1 safety measure... You can get away with most of that with a single 150 wet shot but why not safe than sorry...

With labor is not bad... These tranny's are a pain to take out... Thats over half the cost right there... If you were to do all the labor yourself it would be $300-$600... A good built performance transmission alone with no install labor will run 2-4K plus core charge... So all in all it's not that bad... I built my transmission for around $1500 and I did all the labor myself and I still could have added more stuff...

Under 50k you'll be looking to pay between $17000-$22000... When looking you want to make sure it has been taken care off and not beat to death as the tranny's are the weak point if any major Mods have been done... If it is a Stock vehicle with minor bolt ons the stock tranny will last a long time... Make sure it has the proper maintenence routine done... Common problems besides tranny if beaten on, would be steering wheel clunk which is more of an annoyance than a problem, Gauge cluster have been known to go out between 60-75k miles which is a easy fix and there are guys that can fix it up cheap on this site... tears in the seat if they are not conditioned enough, heated seat elements have been known to go out, besides that no major problems until major mods are done... The stock block is good for tons of HP and will get you in the 11's without doing any internal engine mods, transfer case is said to be good up to 1000hp and life of the vehicle... All in all it is a very good reliable truck if taken care of... Good Luck with the hnut and you won't regret getting one if you can find one... These trucks are getting harder and harder to find as they only made them from 2003-2007 around 27,000 made total.... AWD were made from 2003-2005 and I beleive all 2006-2007 are rear wheel drive... The ISSS was made in 2006 and is RWD and very rare only in black... blue being pretty rare and finding one under 50k is getting impossible... Just check this site as alot of very nice SSS's go up for sale ocassionally... You may have to travel to find the right one...

What tonnue cover is that?? And how much does it weigh??? I really want to get rid of my heavy fiberglass one and get a low profile one just like that!!!

Oh Lordy Lord you CAUGHT ME!!!! ....

If you are towing alot or hauling big loads then a big stall isn't really for you... The truck will seem kinda sluggish until the stall speed is met but when it is met it is a rocket for me anyways... My 3000 stall starts pulling real hard at 2800-3000 under steady state acceleration... Under WOT it wont move until it hits 3400 making one hell of a launch and banging your head off the headrest.. LOL But for you and your everyday driving and work loads I still think a stall would be fun and more than workable for you... You already kind of answered your own question on which stall to get.... If your boost starts to come on at 2500 then a stall of 2400-2800 like a TB TQ converter would be perfect for you and your driving habits... If it were just your toy and you didnt do work with it then Id say go with a 3000-3400.... Good luck with whichever you do...

A pulley change is a world of difference going from 4-5lbs to 9-9.5lbs of boost LOL... What you really need that will put a huge smile on your face and get that pig out of the whole is a nice 3000-3200 stall... It will be night and day difference and you would never regret it....

My duty cycle for the deka 60's are at 55-65% My fuel pressure at idle and cruising is about 52-55ish which is about right for stock fuel pumps... Under WOT it climbs up to around 65lbs... Keep in mind that with the deka's you will need fuel rail spacers about 1/2" as the siemen dekas are taller than stock