2003_SuperSport

I don't know your future mods but I stuck with my factory rockers and timing chain and only went with behive springs and some Hardened pushrods... Not sure if the titanium keepers or timing chain is necessary for just a cam or even like my setup... It certainly wont hurt and maybe good insurance as all vehicles respond to mods differently...

I think you should be fine with the 3600 as long as you stay NA... Cause under boost my 3000 stalls at 3400 so your 3600 would probably be 4000+... Tranny I would do a shift kit and servos minnimum... But if your doing the converter you might as well build the tranny up a little... I would check out PATC... I would do a transgo reprogramming kit, PATC raptor servos (the ones one step above the vette ones), Beast reaction shell, billet imput output shafts, Alto red eagle clutch packs, possible a new reverse drum and new kevelar bands... All new fluid and some Lube Guard ATF protectant/friction modifier... FYI- It will be a B*tch to get the tranny out... Those top bolts suck to get in and out...

I would agree with canadianVR with this to an extent... I have 4:56 and I absolutly love them... The hole shot is amazing and your 1/8th times will be better... BUT I am to the point with my mods that anything lower than these would be no bueno... (As I already have some front wheel spin from launch and a 3000stall) Anymore mods that increase low end TQ and I'll just be an AWD burnout Monster hahaha... If you were 2WD I wouldn't even consider that high or even 4:10's for that matter... Your sig states you have a 2004 SSS which I don't think they made so if you do a gear change you need to do the front too and it is fairly expensive if you don't do it yourself and the tolerences have to be right or you will have alot of whining which is also no bueno... You will hear a little more whine than now but shouldnt be able to hear it at highway speed... Also keep in mind you will be running about 2100-2400 cruising RPM's which will affect gas mileage.... If its not your daily than go for it if it is I'd only consider it.... I don't drive my truck alot if at all LOL and I would do it again if I had a choice.... This is with Radix/Cam/3000stall/Meth/ etc...... and 4:56 Gear ratio... If you listen closely through the insanley beautifully loud and blissfully wonderfuly maggie you can hear the tires breaking loose.... https://www.facebook.com/james.forbord?ref=tn_tnmn#!/photo.php?v=764007193630800&set=vb.100000645801109&type=2&theater

That is indeed alot of cam for a stock block LQ9 and your current mods... I really like my cam in my sig ( there are better blower cams but this one sounds nice and runs very well) TSP makes good cams you may want to check out Something in the 580's-590's and a LSA of 113 or more will be a great cam... I think it was the 228R but don't quote me on that and I think Zippy recommended that cam to me as well if I ever decided I had extra money in my pocket burning a hole as the gains would be minimal like 10-15hp from what I run now which is more of a N/A cam... Still alot better than stock... Also make sure you have the supporting fuel mods!!! I run meth as a saftey precaution and to help with octane... Also I'd recommend 60lbs injectors or more as the 42's may run close to 80%. My 60's run about 55-65% duty cycle... I will also fore warn you that you may want to check into a bigger fuel pump especially going to 2.8"... Also with the 2.8" pulley you will be getting diminishing returns unless you run something to combat IAT's... I'd recommend METH 50/50 mix which will help 20-30' decrease in IAT on boost and a much slower rise as well as help run pump gas better with the octane increase... Also a bigger supercharger coolant resovoir would help as the factory one only holds a quart, (I've added a 1Gallon)... The Top 2 would be NO2 50-75shot (which would net very substantial gains in performance as well as cooling the intake charge) or phenolic spacer from Ray which has reportedly been a must have for anyone running an older Radix ( This is due to the poor design of the headunit intercooler laying directly on the intake and heads/Block soaking up all engine heat, The spacer would be that must needed barrier preventing heat soak and reportedly letting you run that maggie at ambient temps when without it runs 20-50 degrees above and much higher under boost)... The bigger spacer also gives you tad more displacment too for a good 2-3more psi.. I know you had to put a new one in for your returnless fuel system, but for me the stock fuel pump and the inline fuel pump from Magnusen is on the verge of MAX as my pressure rises quite a bit on accel... I personally run the bigger resovoir, and meth... I have NO2 just not installed yet... With just those 2 Mods and a 2.8" pulley I have went from seeing 200+ degree IAT's on a 80' day reaching those temps in mere seconds to nothing more than 165' on a similar 80' day gradually reaching that temp in 10's of seconds.... Plus with the meth you can run it with NO2 and it will help add a small safety buffer as it adds octane.... These are my .02cents and 9-10 years experience with my truck.... FYI- I see about 9-9.5PSI of boost with a 2.8" but I have shorty gibsons. When i go 17/8" LT's I will probably see 8.5-9psi overall and hopefully pick up Rays spacer someday to get me back up to 10-11PSI overall LOL... Check this link out--- You can't say its a bad setup with wheel spin lol https://www.facebook.com/james.forbord?ref=tn_tnmn#!/photo.php?v=764007193630800&set=vb.100000645801109&type=2&theater

Ok a tranny flush is when you flush out all the old fluid and replace with new fluid which is about 12 quarts and would not be recommended at over 100k miles... A general maintenance fluid/filter change which only requires dropping the pan uses about 6-7 quarts... If you pulled 12 quarts out that may be your problem as the old fluid which has burnt and has all that tranny debris acting as a friction modifier... The only thing I'd recommend you try before dumping 1000's on a new tranny is try putting a friction modifier in your tranny to help the slip, like Lube Guard from Oreily's... http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-110/Transmission I used a bottle when I rebuilt my tranny on my SSS and it still works outstanding... I also put some in my wifes 2006 Impala SS because she had a little tranny slip from the start and it eliminated it after a few miles of driving....

Well, I ran a scan and did a very basic TQ management tune for now and recalibrate it for the correct tire size and corrected the speedo and I gained 4mpg's getting 16.5-17mpg mixed city and hwy driving from only 13 almost all hwy ... I am pleased so far, but am pretty sure some of it was because the tires were so big that it threw the odometer off a little... But with the TQM gone in the engine and 75% reduction in the tranny it has a night and day throttle response increase and the shifts respond a tad better and the hwy driving isnt downshifting back and forth anymore to keep up with crusie control set at 60mph lol... Now what to do with this bumblebee exhaust it has errrrr ... So annoying and I made it worse by sawzalling the rusty old exhaust back just after the muffler... The piping was shot with tons of holes and I could crush it with my hand in spots... Surprisingly the rest of the underneath is in outstanding shape still for a 7 year old vehicle....

I dont drive my truck much... Just a few times in the summer and it hybernates from Oct/Nov to Apr/May... But if you ever plan on comming up to Grand Rapids MN then PM me and I will get her out lol... And No I dont have a spec of rust anywhere... Undercarriage is still new haha Your truck looks BADA$$ with that tire/rim combo with the drop... I am still waiting to do my 2/2 drop still... Just no shop time to do it yet...

It's all going to depend on the size of shot you want and then whether you want a progressive control or just a WOT switch and window switch for safety... As far as the tune goes that also is a very vague question... That all depends on whether you are using your factory fuel system or are you using a completly different fuel cell and pump... To give you a real honest answer we need alot more info on what you are planning to do and mods you have or plan on having... I personally am going with a seperate fuel system just for my NO2 as to not strain my already straining fuel system... Since the nitrous will have its own fuel system and pump tuning will be primarily in the jetting of the pills rather than in the pcm itself ( I will be pulling some timing just to be safe and dial it back in once the system is up and operational) With the window switch and WOT switch both factors have to be met to start spraying the window switch will ensure NO2 won't spray until a certain RPM are met as well as the WOT switch not allowing spray until the skinny pedal is mashed to the floor... Just post your goals future goals, MODS, and shot size you are planning to do and we can give you a better answer...

I tried to do a data log on my 2007 colorado with the 3.7L using the basic default imperical configuration and another one that I use to convert to MAF HZ but I cant get the Knock to show on the data log while logging it just doesnt read... It shows reading 160 somthing parameters but the one I use alot (KNOCK) doesnt show... Wont show on the Histogram or any of the other moniters... Does anyone have a HPTuners Scan Configuration that they use to tune a stock 2007 colorado with the 3.7L that I can use to see if mine are setup right?. This truck eats the gas but with out the tune and 33" tires the MPH is off so will the estimated MPG... So once I tune the speedo it will read appropriately.... But the last time I checked I got only 13mpg driving fairly easy so probably 14 with the bigger uncalibrated tires... I'd be happy if I could tune out at 16mpg average but it may take some time to get there hence I need to see the knock burst LOL... Thanks a bunch Alright brothers... I posted this up in the colorado forums and it has been up 2 days now and not as much as a you are S.O.L... haha... So I figure some of you tuners out there or someone that has a colorado can hook me up with a scan config so I can read my Knock... I want to try it this way before I start digging into the mechanical part of it lol... I understand it may take a little longer here as its a different truck forum all together but it seems this forum is still more active...

Thats almost as much SS Silverados that were made between 2003-2007 lol

I love my maganaflow but they did have a slight drone with no cats and true dual.... X-Pipe fixed that and now makes me wonder if my exhaust is loud enough anymore when i drive it until I see a video of me driving.... Quiet at crusing and a good sounding loud at WOT... But then again I dont run OBX, so I'll shut up haha

I will find time to go down there and visit the shop before winter I swear lol.... I just hate racking up the miles on my truck as I already have 56k on her ... LOL

Damn you RB Randy.... I feel like a hillbilly hack with all my mods now lol... Most done in the front lawn, besides cam and charger lol.... If that obsession ever becomes generous send me some new shiney parts.... Some braided fuel line for my nitrous, some new slotted brakes, as my old ones are starting to get shaky lol... A phenolic spacer would be awesome too!!!! hahah... anyways- that truck is lookin' bada$$ and keep the pics comming lol

^ I wonder as well????? I am still running my factory 105 amp, and I have 900W sub amp and 2 kicker comps, plus a butt load of mods that draw juice to include E-fans.... I watch my voltage and it doesnt drop below 13-13.5 ever while idling or when the subs hit... I have only replaced the battery once 2 years ago as well...Lights dont dim either... Maybe, just maybe when i bought this truck back in 2005 the previous owner put a different one in at 20k miles but i doubt it, as it was a pure stock truck.... FYI- you can pick up a remanufactured 105amp one for like $90... I dont like remanufactured anything but if you need one they have them

Welcome from the north... Looks nice in the pics... Any questions feel free to look me up...

I just put on a AVS low pro bug deflector... I think it completes the front and looks real nice... I have never really liked the front ends to much on the colorado's or canyons much but it has grown on me and with the bug deflector it looks sharp now... I literally have nothing else I can ask for to complete this truck, it has all the mods I planned on putting on it... The previous owner IMO did a tasteful job setting it up right, even has a K&N CAI which is all the farther I'd go with engine mods besides a tune which I plan on hooking my hpt up soon enough to begin tweaking lol... Thanks for all the kudos guys... May not be for everyone but for a midsize truck and what I want it for hauling my 16.5' side console tracker boat its all i need and get decent gas milage 16-22mpgs... I may just may look into a small cheap rear mount turbo to help with fuel savings and the extra go when hauling the boat and a passing gear... But thats it I SWEAR!!! Side by side before and after bug shield lol

Well I finally got sick of driving my 88 chevy K1500 rust bucket around and bought a 2007 chevy colorado for what I think was a steal... I don't know much about colorados or canyons but for the most part good reviews and the year I got and the engine I got was the perfect year with the new 3.7L I5... Still not a rocket ship by any means but way better than the 175hp I4 they offer lol... Any ways its a 2007 crew cab witht he 3.7 I5... It came with a 4" skyjacker lift 33" M/T tires, color matched and vehicle specific topper, rhino lined bed, and not a spec of rust or corosion anywhere with only 56K miles for $13K... The interior is flawless and has new chevy floor mats, indash pioneer DVD player with backup camera... under the hood was flawless and very clean... I love this truck so far and can't wait to get my hands into the tune... The previous owner had a tunersport performance chip tapped into the MAF which I instantly clipped off lol... The only other thing I want to change is the dual exhaust that was put on... Sounds like a bumblebee ... No v-6 or inline gaser should have dual exhaust IMO... I am still not sure if I like the daytime running lights or not... I have the originals but they were peeling really bad so I cleaned, sanded, and polished those halo ones and the do look better than the old peeling stock ones... I also have the halo headlights but not sure if I want those on, I might ventshade them with a tint and see how they look over the stockers...

^ Bingo, I knew you had something up your sleeve to go so big- Thats the route I wanted to go with my injectors but my last E85 stationed up here in Grand Rapids closed... Because of the extra 30% E85 consumes I would be pushing my 60's to the recommended limit... Dont forget to get a e85 friendly pump... I would think the walboro 416 would be sufficient.

What do you have planned for your truck using 80#rs... Big turbo, TVS, F1 Procharger, Stroker, LOL... Im running 60#rs and only seeing 55-65 duty cycle tops running 9.5PSI, cam, etc...

Ok here is a far fetched idea or maybe its not IDK... I have been learning on my own through tons of research off and on for almost 1.5 years now and an idea came to me that may be out there already... So far in my trials and tribulations learning how to tune I have done hours of research, and when I am confident enough I would run a data log 15-20min or more, then compare tables and data log and make minor tweaks, wash and repeat... This costing money in gas, hours and hours of the day and week data logging and more.... The idea I have was or maybe its out there is a digital dyno demo software or something that does a computorized simulation data log from stock to any configuration of editor changes I may have done( allowing me to make far more drastic changes, cutting my tune time down to hours instead of days, without the potential of thousands of dollars in engine parts strewn about on the highway or track)... I understand how tough it may be to create a software with all these variables but if it has or can be done I would be able to sit at home and adjust timing and ve tables and fuel enrichment and so forth and plug in the changes to a preset vehicle configuration and have it show me what I did right or wrong in terms of knock and STFT/LTFT numbers... Obviously you would still have to know what each table does and what to change but for someone like myself that has done tons of research and have a good idea what to change and what not to change based on knock, trims, etc... this would prove to be very beneficial for learning multi vehicles without spending credits to unlock a new vehicle to tinker with and learn lol or messing with a current vehicle at baby baby baby steps to avoid grenading a motor at WOT!!!! Just a thought so dont be to hard on me and if theres something already out there just point me in the right direction besides flying out to vegas LOL... Unless you decide to do a tune class in MN then I am down haha...

Two model year unlocks for $650! Thats like 4 free credits given away... Someone with a 2004-2005 better jump on this LOL... GLWS.... If this deal was available when I bought my HPT I would of snagged it in a heartbeat...

105K miles... Based on the pics and under the hood and the new seat covers, she looks to have 10,500 miles LOL... Very clean and nice work

That sucks bro... To bad its not a black truck because I still have my stock hood in almost perfect shape still lol...

Not so much on advise but rather fitment for the 1 7/8 on a AWD SSS... I know the 1 3/4 fit well... And yes I beleive you can get them coated for like $100 more through pacesetter otherwise there a a couple DIY threads on what paint and so on you can do... I dont care what they will look like because I would like to get them wrapped... here are the ceramic ones but the standard black paint are quite a bit cheaper if you can DIY paint and wrap them- $772.95 http://pacesetterexhaust.com/99-06-silverado-sierra-suburban-yukon-tahoe-long-tube-coated-headers.aspx black painted ones- $519.95 http://pacesetterexhaust.com/99-06-silverado-sierra-suburban-yukon-tahoe-long-tube-headers.aspx EDIT- according to their fitment chart they should fit my 2003 SSS... Just wondering if anyone has tried them yet and had any problems...