2003_SuperSport

Servos are cheap and easy to do, I'd do that at least...

NAAAAAAAWWWWWSSSS 150shot LOL

I'll look at it when I get home tonight... I have hptuners so I will need to download the EFI Live Beta to look at it...

Or I can hook up my Hptuners and laptop and find how far they are off and calculate the difference to find actuall LOL...

Just curious... Whats wrong witht he factory oil pressure gauge and trans temp gauge... Are they not accurate? I know nothings pefect but they should be close... I am all about getting the necessary gauges but if I already have them I don't see the need to get new ones just to look cool and they do look cool LOL ...

Now to jack this thread LOL... Just a quick question... I am going to be shooting a small 50-75 shot spray down the tube of my Maggie but obviously not all the time but often if I have a full bottle ... I already have BR6EF's gapped at .032... Looking at my MODS and running NO2 would any of you recommend me going to a BR7EF or do you think the 6's will still be fine???? BTW Randy- Since your going to be throwing that TVS on your truck you will need to go a step colder on the plugs... The BR6EF's that I run are non-projected tips better suited for boost and NO2 IMO...

Sounds about right... Either injectors are maxed out or fuel pump not keeping up... check the duty cycle of your injectors on a WOT pull... Anything over 80% is not good... Then if you have a fuel pressure gauge make sure that it stays steady between 53-60psi at WOT... If it drops below 50 your running out of pump... Also its a good idea to log and check your knock sensors as well to make sure there is not any detonation going on, if your running out of fuel at 5k you probably are seeing higher knock numbers there as well...

I am a little late on the post but what the heck. LOL... We can definatley do some Fishin just not fishing as I no longer have a hitch on my truck or bumper just the BSER roll pan... Heck I dont even have my Spare or spare winch on my truck anymore LOL...

The top 3 must haves for forced induction IMO- 1.) Boost is a must on a forced induction to determine any leaks and actual PSI. 2.) fuel pressure gauge to determine if your running out of pump or stressing the current one, or if its getting weak. 3.) AFR Wideband so you can monitor any lean conditions or rich conditions to optimize performance, fuel economy, and to avoid catostrophic engine failure... For N/A- I would still get a wideband and fuel pressure.

I only get 9-11MPG 12MPG if I am easy and average of 10-11mpg ... All my fault though I just want to go fast when I step on the skinny pedal...

Maybe slow but have worlds of potential with a few well place mods... It already has the TQ curve just need to boost its hp's... Some nice heads, intake, and cam should make that badboy move...

That Reaper is UGLY in the front.... Looks like they took a nice looking front end and Micheal Jacksonized it LOL... Tried way to hard to make it look like something its not...

Maybe red isn't your flavor so how about this one LOL... Would look sick for black or blue trucks that don't want flashy red on them at the same time look better on them than on Red trucks (Sorry Red color SSS's LMAO)... http://www.amazon.co... corvette flags This is definatley going on my SSS...

Double post

^^^^^ This first and then when your ready for more start exploring other means such as nitrous

With a blower I would say anything under a 100shot would be fine... I would never recommend using a dry shot with a blower in the first place due to the fuel system already being strained as it is and you have to rely on your injectors as well to be able to support the extra oxygen intake... A wet system will take the injectors out of the question but still relys on fuel pump pressure to keep up with the amount of nitrous, thus a stand alone tank is the best option... Seperate tank with your choice of fuel, (preferably highest octane you can get for its detonation resistance), shark nozzle placed a couple inches before throttlebody, purge solenoid, fuel solenoid, nitrous solenoid, WOT switch, Window switch, fuel pressure switch, single stage will be just fine... Plus a few other parts... The main reason for stand alone tank is your factory fuel system wont be affected no matter how much spray you have since the fuel is being supplied by the pump in the stand alone... Won't even need to mess with timing except adding a few degrees because of the cooler intake charge, but it is always good to have a small buffer anyways and not to run it to tight... Start with a 25-35 shot and work your way up to 100

Ray, Thats sweet, I may be in the market... Once you check out my ride this spring maybe you can help me get the most out of my Radix/Nitrous/Meth/Cam setup LOL... I have Hptuners pro so we can maybe throw the SSS on your dyno and see what numbers we can put down, if you feel comfortable pulling the front driveshaft? BTW I sent you a question on your facebook page about filling nitrous bottles, and haven't heard back yet... The names James Forbord...

I am intersted in 1 7/8ths but not the y or cats...

Yes sir... Once this spring rolls around I'll pull her out of storage and take a trip down... PM me your shop address and what times you are open or after hours too... I have family down there so I can spend the night...I also have a 2" beltech lowering shackles and some 2500 HD keys for the front I'd like to install, but need a shop with a lift LOL..

Agreed!!! I said gut them but it would be the wiser to remove them and replace with a straight pipe or aftermarket cat replica

Leave 3rd??? There is basically only 3 gears needed for racing with the fourth being an OD for fuel economy savings... 3rd gear will get you well over 100mph and our trucks should be able to handle up to 7000 rpms before needing ARP rod bolts

Go to chat room

Me too I have been here for 8 years and cant figure out how to show my First name LOL... and welcome Alex would love to see some truck pics in the member introduction threads Pm me on what you need and ill try to help you out

Old post but I just read it LOL... Yea I knew this was possible and thats why when you buy deer tags in MN it is for antler or antlerless deer and it does not specify the sex... So when you buy your permit it is for one antler deer and if you qualify for a second tag or doe tag it doesnt say doe it says one antlerless deer...