2003_SuperSport

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/ATM-5763/2-1-16-Autometer-Phantom-Fuel-Pressure-Gauge?utm_source=google-shopping&utm_medium=comparison-shopping&utm_campaign=google-shopping-v2&gclid=CKCqnLG6uL8CFQOSaQodukUAnw I got this gauge and love it... It reads really accurate and is electric so all you need to do is screw the receiver onto the schrader valve and run the wires to the cab... I wanted this because I didnt want fuel running through my firewall and inside my cab... I got the same model for my boost gauge too to match way cheaper for mechanical but with boost its not raw fuel flowing so i was ok with it... http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/ATM-5701/2-1-16-Autometer-Phantom-Vacuum-Boost-Gauge

Well if you are for sure under 600hp and dont ever seeing yourself more than 600, then dont bother spending the extra money on 1 7/8 just to potentionally lose low end TQ... You may not feel it as it may lose only 5-10hp/TQ maybe more IDK every truck is different... But like Fireman said it is overkill like putting twin walboro 416 pumps in a stock civic... But if, that is if you are near the 500hp range now and there is the slightest chance you could go forced induction or nitrous then go for it... (Once again anyone have experience with PACESETTERS new 1 7/8s) My truck is a garage queen never sees rain or snow so a good set of functioning headers is what I want and I know pacesetters work just as well as other expensive brands but just dont last due to the cheaper steel and lack of coating plus they are only 400-500$)...

I just saw this on craigslist the other day... You are not selling it already are you? or did the original owner not take the posting down? Anyways nice ride and I will be in Duluth a few more times this summer and hopefully Garfield Ave street drags if the registery doesn't fill up like it did last year when I tried signing up...

IMO I would say if your goal is under 600Hp 1 3/4 will do you just fine... If you are planning big hp's above 600 I would go 1 7/8... There are plenty of motors doing well over 600hp with 1 3/4 but from what I read 1 7/8 above 600hp is worth the upgrade... On the reverse side of things if you go too big of headers at lower hp's it wont help...

I hope you got your answer from above before I highjack this thread with another header question ( no point in opening up another thread LOL) Anyone have any complaints with fitment issues with the pacesetter 1 7/8 longtubes on AWD SSS's?...

Another quick reply like above... stock bottom, milled heads 10.5:1, 9.5PSI radix, Meth injection, Comp Cam- See for yourself---- https://www.facebook.com/james.forbord?ref=tn_tnmn#!/photo.php?v=764007193630800&set=vb.100000645801109&type=2&theater

To spin your AWD tires you would have to be stalling at 3000+ RPMS and pushing over 500HP lol... Unless it is wet outside and you are turning a corner haha.....

My wife has the same Impala SS LOL... They are pretty quick for stock cars... You know he was racing you cause the only way to get the impala SS to burn out like that is to take the traction control off because of the FWD and you have to be going straight... LOL.... Nice kill.... Stock vs stock that impala would have had our trucks by a couple car lengths...

Back in the day the 2003 review did say it was the corvette of pickup trucks LOL... Why not make it look so

Like the title says. How much TQ/HPdo you guys think our trucks must have to break the tires loose on a AWD SSS running on 275/55/20 tires. I'm just curious because I'm kinda lacking on the AWD dynos where I live lol. I'm kinda afraid to hit it with a 75shot of NO2 now out of the hole since I'm already spinning tires. Unless I get bigger shoes. Mods in my sig and truck is stalling around 3200-3400 because of the radix and other mods I'm assuming with my 3000 bought stall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Build looks awesome Randy!!!! I need numbers if you get an AWD dyno setup LOL... Also with the stall and TVS can you break the front tires loose at launch???? One more thing I noticed about your setup that would help out tremendously and only set you back $300-$400... Get a true 90mm LS3 throttle body and x-link... That puny 78mm is way too small for that monster TVS, like drinking a milk shake through a bar straw. The TBSS 87mm or LS3 90mm minimum and you won't regret it, much crisper throttle response... Also watch your IAT's I know the TVS in way more efficient than my old mp112 but if you are constantly over ambiant I would consider Meth for two reasons. 1.) I have first hand experience with data ogs showing a average drop and constantly lower IAT's while spraying under boost... I talking 40-50* with a 2.8" pulley... Plus the IAT's climb at a much lower rate... #2.) The added octane at 50/50 or 75/25 is a awesome barrier for extra knock protection and will allow a few more degrees of timing under boost rpm levels... For every degree of advance is said to be 1-2%HP increase... So on a 500HP motor running 5 degrees advanced which is an example only...you will pick up 10-50HP's which is the reason meth in itself is not a power adder just allowing you to run a higher advance and at the same time the engine is not pulling as much timing in return due to lower IAT's On a 80* day running IAT's of 180* and higher your engine will be pulling timing taking the horspower you already have as much as 50HP's... (This is an example only so dont bust it up) Think of it this way you build a motor and add up an educated estimate on what each mod gives you... Like a stock motor 345hp plus TVS 130hp plus efans freeing up 5hp, full exhaust with headers 30hp you get 510hp's... Now you loose 50hp's of it due to high 180* IAT's and timming being pulled so your 510hp capable motor is only pushing 460hp... NOW Add Meth IATS go down to 130-150* IAT's you get 3* timing back for cooler IAT's which is 6.9 or 7hp per degree so now we are back up to 481hp... Ok now we are using a heavier meth to water ratio or full 100% meth for extra octane and the ability to add more timing BAM 3,4,5 more degrees... lets say 5* 7X5=35 481+35= 516HP... Yea only 6 more HP's more than what your engine is already capable of but you are able to use all of it instead of only 460HPs So what you're used to feeling at launching or going WOT is 460hp driving around now feels better at WOT pulls but you now can feel the extra 56hp's. Where the misconception comes is METH doesnt gain you much if anything for HP. This is True, you won't see very much added HP using meth as thats not what it does.. On the otherhand, you now have access to all of your engines potential... The hard part of testing this in a controled dyno enviroment is the weather and road load factor... If your running an engine that operates at or around ambiant tempatures then meth wont do much beside the 5-15hps you may get with adjusting a degree of timing or two... But when you get on the road and sucking up all that heat from the road and crusing around at above ambiant IAT's on a hot day you will then see the difference... The key factor in deciding METH is how bad are you IAT's past 6lbs of boost If your reaching anywhere 40 or more degrees past ambiant temps at WOT then METH will do its work for you... But remember METH generally only works on WOT pulls with a boost switch unless you go progressive but I dont think METH is worth that much more coin for what it does to rate a fancy meth controller... but $300 for a basic devils own kit with boost pressure switch, HELL YEA! Any thing more than that I'd save up for nitrous and get the actuall hp increase bang for your buck and 10X better intercooling effects... But $300 plus 1.99 -20winshield washer fluid and 2-3 bottles of heat at 1.99 is hard to beat to get your hp's back.... Not sure if this is for you Randy but run some data logs and check your IAT's I hear the TVS does awesome in the heat efficiency department... END OF RANT LOL

You can start small and work your way up... If you set the shift rpms and speed up for a 6200 shift in the tune you should be shifting in real time around 6300-6400... just remeber that there is a slight lag when setting shift points because 2 parameters must be met before it will shift RPM + MPH... Anything past 7000RPM on stock bolts will be advisable to replace with ARP...

Why not have the badass sound of a supercharger whine LOL... Or if he does the work himself he can easily be in the 4K mark with a supercharger, cam and trans mods... Just because the cam sounds badass doesnt mean it will perform as good as a supercharger plus a supercharger will have just as good of if not better drivability but then again its all in the tune...

That would be awesome with a twin turbo setup LOL

Yes Sir, All numbers matching 1970 Chevelle SS 454 with the m-22 4-speed rock crusher tranny and the highly sought after LS6 engine with only 56K miles on the car... It books for $139,000 (http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1970/Chevrolet/Chevelle-Super-Sport/2-Door-Hardtop-454/Values ) .... It's my fathers retirement car and only gets driven once or twice a year LOL... He takes it out and waxes it and puts it back in the garage haha... He only paid $900 for it in 1984, so it turned out to be a good investment lol

Some random picture dump of my SSS, Daughter, and Bike... Enjoy

I hate the solid front rim but the bike as a whole is badass... I personally love my bike as well nice 40' fork and big back tire... Snappy 1300CC motor belt drive fuel injection with programmer... And after I debaffled and gutted the exhaust she sounds awesome too....

Arggg... And I am over just starting to get comfortable in saying my truck can beat just about any stock vehicle that books under 150K LOL and GM goes ahead and makes another monster... I am going to need to be able to put down closer to 800-850HP's instead of 700-750 now in order to beat the RB's of the world with my heavy SSS that I have done all the work too myself to be fast LOL....

I have a barely used Nikon Bushmaster 3X9 with BDC for quick target aquisition. In mint condition, I used it 2 deer Hunting seasons and 2 perfect kills out of a field stand, first one from about 125yds second one from close to 200yds, so no tree scrapes or anything... Dead on if mounted correctly... I had the BDC sighted in at 100, 200, and 300yds with 1" groups on my Rem.308... I went higher power scope with mildots and illuminating reticles so I can shoot out past 500yds with ease... 9X is a little to low for anything past 300yds for me...

You can also convert your standard mp112 J-tube to 90mm fairly easily if your somewhat redneck mechanicaly inclined. And get a 90mm TB.. This will help it have quite a bit more air flow over the stock 78MM inlet... Then pulley it down to 2.8 and spray some meth to keep the IATS down at WOT...

If your keeping it as a daily driver and are worried about saving gas or maybe even adding a MPG or two to your truck (if you can go easy on her LOL) I'd go with a used mp112 or Mp122 Radix... Easy bolt on and 120-140HP's with the push of the pedal... A cam and heads are GENERALLY going to demand more fuel due to longer durations the valves stay open over stock... If you dont plan on towing anything too heavy I'd go with a 2800-3000 stall on top of the radix for that extra grab the seat of your pants acceleration haha... I have a 3000 stall in my truck and my TC is locking up between 3000-3500... Tough to tell on the scanner because my scanner goes by 1/5ths of a second and within 2 tenths of a second my truck went from 2500-3500rpms and 2mph-16mph with lots of front wheel spin... LOL.... If I were to ever have my truck just as a daily I would only supercharge it and do the necessary tranny work... Me on the other hand my SSS is not my daily so I went with the cam, head work, boost, meth, NO2 etc... blahaha... Gas MPG still averages 10-12 so I am happy with it

I just used a relay from my efans to the PCM and reprogramed my PCM to run the efans... Real cheap and easy to do... I think I spent less than $100 on my efan and relay setup... Went to the Junk yard and found some dual fans out of a TA or Grand Prix and they work flawlessly. Engine temp never goes above 195' sitting in hot traffic and never goes above 185 normal driving on really hot days...