kisthisSS

I was just throwing the meth kit in as kind of a bonus but make me an offer. It's a snow performance stageII kit.

Well just blew my motor up a few weeks ago and I've been doing some thinking. I honestly just want to get it back on the road and just be able to drive it. Once I get my new motor I'm going to run n/a for a while, put some money away, and eventually go with a completely new set up. So that's why I'm selling the supercharger. It's a Vortech S-trim upgraded to an Si-trim. I just recently had it upgraded back in March of this year. I have the documentation to prove it. It only has 4500 miles on the upgrade and 35000 on the whole kit. It has new bearings, seals, new impeller, and housing. The only things left alone were the gears and gear case which were still good when it was inspected by Vorctech. It flows 1200cfm and makes 11-12psi on a 6.0L with a 3.12 pulley at my elevation(6500ft). I also have a 3.33 pulley that I will include and depending on elevation it should make around 9-10psi. The kit includes, blower, inlet pluming, discharge pipe, bypass valve, 42# injectors, s/c bracket, oil drain hose, oil feed hose, and a custom Volant cold air box. A custom tune will be needed. I'm running an s/d 2 bar tune and I can give you the IAT sensor and 2 bar MAP sensor if you like. And I'm also including my Snow performance meth kit as well. I'm asking $2200 without shipping. I'll get some pics up as soon as I can.

Well I think it has to do with the altitude. I'm at 6500 ft. My injector duty cycle is 78%. Not sure how it would be at sea level, they might not be enough

Well this weekend was not a good one for me. Went to jump on the interstate Saturday, gave it the gas to get me out in front of traffic, let off after I got ahead of traffic and boom! Looked in the rearview mirror only to see an oil filter and a cloud of oil following me. I shut it down right away and coasted over to the shoulder. I climbed under to take a peak and saw a hole the size of a fist in the side of my block. Laying in the front crossmember was 2 wrist pins, top and mid section of a connecting rod and chunks of my block. The starter is blown clean off the side of the motor, the oil filter and the section where the oil filter screwed into the pan are gone The block and rotating assembley is completely trashed. I knew this would eventually happen but didn't expect to be this soon. I guess 550hp on a stock bottom end=no bueno! Anyway I started looking into shortblocks. I found Texas Speed to have a LQ9 with stock LS crank, ARP hardware, Eagle H-beam rods, Diamond forged pistons, and Cleavite bearings. It's only like $2800. I guess my questions is do they put out a good product. Is thier quality pretty good and is the reliability good as well? Has anyone use any of their products? This couldn't have happened at a worse time. It's going to have to be a budget build for sure. But I don't want to put money into something that wont last. I'm not really looking to go all out on a stroker or make more power, just something that will handle the horsepower I already have and be reliable. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appriciated. Thanx Bryan

Glad to help man, good luck with the build

Ya you can purchase the tru-track yourself and have a shop install it (it will probably be cheaper cause if the shop orders it they will want to mark up the price of it to make a little money ). You can purchase it just about anywhere really, but I really like Randy's Ring and Pinion (www.ringpinion.com or call them 866-631-0196) they usually have the best prices and great customer service. You can get gear sets, bearings, seals, and everything else you need from them. Keep in mind if you're truck is a 4x4 and you want to change from your existing gear ratio you have to get a gear set for front and rear diffs. The front and rear ratio's must match or bad things happen when you go to put it in 4wd. Depending on how many miles you have on your existing rear end you might want to look into getting a master install kit along with the tru-track. The kit comes with pinion shims, carrier shims, pinion bearings, pinion seal, crush sleave, carrier bearings, axle seals, diff cover gasket, and new ring gear bolts. Everything will have to be taken appart so you might as well put new parts back in. I'm not sure what the problems the guys on LS1truck.com were having with thier 60's but if your only looking to be in the 400-450hp range a nicely built 60 will do just fine.

First off are you going to be installing the posi yourself? I'm just asking because it's not as simple as just pulling out your open carrier and dropping in a new LSD, locker, or posi unit. There is quite a bit involved. You have pinion preload settings controlled via a crush sleave, a pinion depth setting thats changed by adding or removing different shim thicknesses between the pinion bearing and pinion gear head, and back lash setting also controlled by different size shims on both sides of the carrier to move the ring gear towards or away from the pinion gear. You also have to use a gear markning compound on the ring gear to make sure the spot where the pinion and ring gear mesh is centered on both drive and coast side of the ring gear. If it's not then you have to take it all back apart and make adjustments, reinstall and recheck. All of these settings have to be set right for the differential to opperate smoothly, not make noise, and run cool. If you want to do most of the work yourself it would be easier to just by a used rearend that has the standard Eaton G80 (gov-lock as most refer to it as) in it already and just swap the whole assembley over or take it to a professional to have a posi installed. If I were you I would get a Detroit Tru-Track. It's a limited slip but uses worm gears that torque against eachother to distribute power to both wheels. Other limited slips use clutches that can wear out over time. On the Tru-Track there is nothing to wear out. Have it installed with a set of 4.10 gears new bearings and seals and call it good. A locker is not very street friendly. It locks both tires together solid so when you go around corners it bucks the vehicle and sqwaks your tires. It will also wear your tires faster and sometimes makes popping and clunking noises when it inguages and disinguages. That tends to scare people when it happens even though nothing is wrong that's just the nature of lockers. As far as a 4l80 IMO that is a little beefy for your application. You will have to change mounts crossmember and drive shaft lengths for front and rear if its a 4x4. It could wind up being more of a hastle than it's worth. You can have your 4l60 built or buy a built one that will fit nice with no problems. Save the money for other mods. Hope that helps you

I graduated from the Phoenix campus in 2001. I loved it thought it was an excelant program. They start you from the ground up as if you never touched a car. The good thing is that it's quick depending on what programs you take. I went for auto/diesel/hot rod and was done in 16months. It is pricey but I thought is was money well spent. If you want to become a tech then it's a great way to get started. Good luck to you.

Awsome man thanks again

Thanx dozer, I have a much better idea of whats going on now. I have an appointment to take it back in a week to get this fixed hopefully all goes well. Thanx to everyone who helped me out on this one

Hey chpspecial thanks for the info man, much appriciated Should the table be increased by 50% and left alone or do you have to play around with the numbers and fine tune it?

Well my MAF is not even on the truck anymore the wires are cut, taped, and tucked back into the harness. I'm just using the IAT wires hooked to a sensor in the manifold. So I dont' know how everything is setup in the PCM. Sorry if I sound dumb, but is setting MAF codes normal for SD conversions or can you eleminate the MAF and all it's tables completely?

Yea it does set MAF codes but my tuner said it would cause the MAF is no longer there. However it does not turn on the service engine light. I don't know if the PCM still thinks there is a MAF or not. I would think that if it was eliminated from the PCM it wouldn't set MAF codes, but I don't know if you can completely eliminate that from the PCM?

Well it kinda depends on your driving habbits. But anytime you increase the efficiency of your engine you have potential to gain mpg. I wouldn't hope for a whole lot but you might see a little increase under normal driving. Of course once you get into the boost you will definently suck down the fuel. It would also depend on how well the tune is done. I'm willing to bet you will loose a few miles per gallon at first cause it's going to be really hard to keep your foot out of it ha ha!

I'm with Fireman31 use anti-seize. The header bolts don't get into the water jackets they are dry holes.

Excuse my lack of knowledge but is "P1514/P0068 Error" the name of the table that needs to be changed? What should I tell my tuner to look at if he doesn't already know what's going on? Using EFI Live software. Again I'm no tuner but if I could lead him straight to the problem that would be great. Thanx

Yeah it's over my head. I'm a pretty good wrench but havent really messed around with tuning. I have an appointment to take it back to my tuner. He said these things can sometimes happen especially when doing a completed custom opperating system like on mine. He said if I had any problems he would take care of them which is cool. I hope he figures it out.

Well checked the grounds all of them are tight, wish it was something that easy, but unfortunately I have the worst luck. Thanx for the help anyway man, it was worth a shot

Under boost I believe it's in the neighborhood of 12.0 it fluctuates a little but stays pretty close to that.

Started out with shift points set to 6000 and rev limiter at 6200. I was kinda thinking that by the time the PCM comanded the shift and the shift event happened it was already on the rev limiter and causing the problem, but we turned the rev limiter up to 6500 and it still does it. It also surges for a second before the 2-3 shift then bam "reduced engine power"! If I back out of the throttle to let it shift early and then get back into it it's fine. I still have 15% TM programmed in don't know if that has anything to do with it? Using EFI Live software if that helps any.

Well thought I was finally finished with my truck, took it to the track to make a few passes and it kept dropping into "reduced power" on the 2-3 shift. Totally embarassed! And one time it did it on the 1-2 shift. It never did this before we messed with the trans tune. I don't know if it's because I have the WOT shift ponts set too high and the PCM doesn't like it or what. WOT shift points are set to 6000 I don't know if that is too high or if the 2bar setup (no MAF) has anything to do with it? Is there something else that needs to be changed in the tune so the PCM doesn't freak out? It just seems like it's one thing after the next Thanx in advance for any help Bryan

Just wanted to know how well the Volant CAI with the ram air tube works. Would it provide enough airflow to a supercharged engine or would it be a restriction? I'm running a Vortech supercharger and 12psi boost and just an open cone filter located up in the right front corner of the engine bay. It's free take in as much air as it needs but it is subjected to underhood temps. The Volant is sealed off from underhood temps but is the supercharger still able to breath. Just worried I'm trading one for the other (a lot of hot air vs. limited amounts of cold air). I like the sealed box and the ram air tube sounds like it would be an improvement over what I'm currently running. Just wanted to know what some of you thought?

Ya I looked on there and saw the same thing you did. I don't see why they would advertise that and be telling you any differently. Makes no sense to me. I would contact the technical department at Vortech to find out for sure. I think they would have a little more info than the sales side...or maybe not. It's worth a shot I guess.