kisthisSS

Ya I hear you some ot the the sales guys I've talked to don't know too much. I always try to talk to a technical support rep. You might have better luck contacting one of them. The only thing I can think of being different would be the bolt holes on the v3 blower not matching up to the silverado mounting bracket but I couldn't say for sure. You could try looking into the ATI Procharger if you like centrifugal blowers. No oil lines on their kits.

It would greatly reduce the time of installation. I think it would be worth it if you could order the kit with the v3. That is if it's not too much more expensive. The oil lines are the hardest part of the install IMO.

Great info Mr. P thank you!

Thanks for the infor Mr. P I have installed a boost valve in the pump. I'm not sure what the number on is but it came with the Transgo shift kit. Not too sure if I want to mess with the EPC valve. Is it very hard to get to? If I leave it alone will it hurt anything? Is there any other paramaters I should change? And one more quick question what should I do about shift times? THANX Bryan

Well I got the truck tune finished last week and I'm going back to get the trans set up. The max power to the wheels was 509hp and 536tq. I have the Transgo Shift Kit with Corvette servo, and aluminum accumulator pistons. My tuner uses EFI live. I just had a few questions and wanted some suggestions on how it should be set it up. 1. Does torque management reduce torque all the time or just during shifts? 2. How much TM should I remove? 3. Does the Transgo kit raise pressure enough or at all? 4. Should I increase the line pressure on top of the shift kit if so how much? Are there any other paramaters I need to change as well? I appriciate any suggestions and help THANKS

I wouldn't worry about the miles. You can install it yourself the hardest part is tapping the oil pan for the supercharger oil return line, other that that is all nuts and bolts. I don't know how set you are on the Vortech but you might consider a Procharger kit it's a self contained unit meaning self lubricated no oil lines. The install would be much quicker and easier. Don't forget to upgrade the trans.

Good point I forgot to mention that small detail

I agree it looks like the shim is in backwards, I also have 2" lowering shackles and no shims, no problems.

I like to use throttle body cleaner and a old tooth brush, just push the throttle plate open with your finder and hold it open then spray around the bore of the throttle body and let is soak for a minute then soak the tooth brush with cleaner and scrub the throttle body then spray down the trottle body to rinse away all the crap. Usually you clean it every 15k to 20k depending on what type of filter you use. It's a good idea to spray off the little coils in your Mass Air Flow sensor too while you at it.

I would like to run the off road pipe from dyna (we don't have emission here so it's not a big issue) but I'm just not sure how it's going to sound. I've heard a truck that had gutted cats and a Corsa cat back, it sounded great wide open but the low rpm and part throttle was a little on the raspy side. The AFR's are a little on the rich side but we only did a few pulls and stopped tuning after we saw the headers getting hot like that. I'm kind of at a cross road, should I just finish the tune with what I got or change the cat set up and go back for a re-tune. I don't want to hurt the motor that is if I actually have a problem here.

I've never checked backpressure under load what should you normally see with F/I engines. What's acceptable and what's not?

I installed the back pressure guage in front of the cats on each side and they both had about 9psi when it started making good boost (6 all the way up to 12psi)

No I was on a 2wd Dyno Dynamics I have a selectable t-case and rear driveshaft I installed for the dyno runs

The blue color is not what really bothers me. Is it normal for these to turn that color under normal conditions or was it too much heat that caused it? I'm not really sure if we tested the back pressure properly either. We tested it under load so I'm not sure what the reading should actually be. I think normally you test for backpressure at idle and high rpm in park or nuetral. It could be normal to see that much backpressure under load I don't know.

Ok so I just got my new set of Dynatech headers with thier so called high flow cats. IMO they look like Catco converters. Anyway I took it to my tuner to get it dialed in for the new headers and the recently upgraded blower set up with 12psi. After 5 or so pulls the headers turned blue, the cats turned blue and about 5 inches of pipe after the cats turned blue. Now usually this means the motor is lean but the AFR was fine 11.5 to 12.0 accross the board. Engine temp and IAT's were all good too. We were confused as hell. We thought maybe the cats were creating too much back pressure and holding in a bunch of heat. So we put in a backpressure guage before the cats and sure enough 9psi of backpressure when it started making good boost. That's pretty high IMO! I was wondering if anyone is running these cats with big hp? I put down 455hp to the wheels with barely any timing advance. It has a lot more potential in it, but we stopped tuning in fear that we could hurt my motor if we continued. I'm sure if I get rid of most of that backpressure I'll gain even more power due to pumping loss and all that heat in the exhaust. I have the Corsa sport cat back as well but I'm sure that's not the issue. I'm so mad cause those headers were not cheap and now I might have to get different cats that are truely high flow. Any comments or suggestions?

Thank you guys, much appreciated!

I've been looking to upgrade the stock plastic accumulator pistons to aluminum ones, but I'm not having much luck finding them. I'd really just like to go with ones that are similar to the stock looking ones only aluminum of course. Not too interested in billet or anything like that. I have a Transgo shift kit so I need them to be compatable. Also wondering if there are 3 pistons or just 2? I know of the 2nd and 4th, but I've seen one in the valve body in some pics. Do you replace that too? Any info as to where I can get these and any other info would be much appriciated.

SOLD!

Sale pending... Sorry if I didn't get back to all of you guys who PM'd me. There was a lot of offers being thrown in and it was a little much to keep up with. I just took the first one who gave me what I was asking for them. Again I appologize if I didn't get back to all of you. If the sale doesn't go through for any reason I'll let you know and keep you posted. Thanx

Ok, I have got quite a few PM's with offers on these heads. I really don't want to turn this into an ebay auction. Tell me what your willing to pay and I'll take the best offer.

Here's a few pics

I have a set of L92 heads complete with rocker arms and valve covers. They came off an 07 Escalade with 26000 miles on it. It came into work with a check engine light and a cam phaser problem. After tearing into the front of the motor and removing the cam phaser I found an oil change sticker blocking off the oil galley to the cam so it ended up trashing the phaser, cam, and cam bearings. Looks like somone didn't check to see if anything was in the filter before they screwed it on the motor. OOOPS! So the previous shop paid for a new motor and I ended up keeping the old motor and heads. A new set from GMperformance is around $800 I believe. I was thinking about letting them go for $400 obo. I would like to keep them but right now i need the money for a set of longtubes and a converter so... Let me know if anyone is interested and I'll get some pics up.

Do the new style Dyna's still have that little EGR tube sticking out of the passenger side header?

Ok so I guess I should have done a little more reading before I posted this. I found a lot of info related to this topic. So I feel like a dumb ass. If I could erase this I would but I don't know how ha ha:) Anyway if you have anymore info feel free to chime in. If not excuse me for posting another OBX LT thread. Sorry