BenKey

I guess you can't hide money Nice gift! What did you do?

It's not a separate part from the pump.

Really...if you didn't like the Flo~pro, there aren't many things out there that you'll be happy with. My Flo~pro is about what my stock muffler was. It got quieter the more miles I put on it and is now perfect, although I never felt it was loud at the install.

The ARP are great bolts, but personally I would get some kind of locking. Either Stage 8, or Breslin. I know the Breslin's are part # 608-026 and can be found on the Summit Racing website. ARP also has a locking bolt I thought. Whichever brand you choose get ones that you know will not back out on you. The size you want is 8mm - 1.25.

I look at those as "nice to have" and if you don't mind spending the extra money and it's important to you to get the best possible situation, go for it. I would have to have some serious fueling issues for me to go for them and would not consider the injectors to be the first thing at fault. The SVO injectors have been referred to as the industry standard in Pensacola where I was when I got mine. You will see many f-body or LS1tech guys that have them. Given the population of them in the racing world, I think their straight off of the shelf would be considerably more in tolerance than most injectors out there. Many tuners have stated they are some of the easiest to tune also. A lot of it opinion, but also a lot of it experience as well. I would consider it on a set of Delphi, Motoron, Accel, etc.. Overkill IMO on the SVOs.

F-type is a very good fluid to get the clutches to grab and shift. I read a thread a while back on LS1tech and many people went into how much better fluid it was over the GM fluids. Some even referred to it as a shift kit in a bottle. I think of the other fluids I mentioned as taking yet another step further. If I didn't want to go ahead with the more expensive ones, F-type fluid would be going on over the GM fluid.

Are those the Fredericos?

A new pump is around $230, +/- $25. I would go to SDPC2000.com to buy.

Tbyrne has group purchases from time to time on Hotchkis sway bars. They're arguably the best out there. I would wait for the next one.

I would look into the 80E setup supposedly now working on our truck. A little on the expensive side, but if you never had to worry about it again, may be worth it.

I think the billet servos are way too hard on the tranny with a Radix. I'm in no way an expert, but most of the broken shafts on NA trucks moderately modded on here, have had them. Your power/tq level obviously exceeds those. The weakest part that I saw going into my truck as I watched it get built was the input shaft and drum. Even though mine was aftermarket and had quite a bit beefier collar where the shaft entered the drum, you could tell it was just not made for high power/tq levels. Especially not that combined with a banging shift from a billet servo. That's just my opinion. There are a lot of proponents to that piece on here. I'd be willing to bet money your tranny would last longer without them. I would also go away from synthetic fluid. As much as synthetic fluid dissaptes heat, it still causes more slip in the clutches. I would look to the fluids that cause the clutches to grip better. Fluids like Raptor Blood, BTE Super shift, or Amsoil Trick shift. The Amsoil is synthetic but it is formulated for the clutches to grab. All three are specially designed for high hp/tq motors. Royal purple is a good product, but not designed for your application. Unless of course they have a trick shift type version - I don't look at their fluids much.

A PCM tune, assuming you are doing for performance, can also adjust your transmission settings keeping your truck in the power band longer. There are a couple of ways to get it on your truck. You can buy the stuff to do yourself after you've learned a little bit about what you are doing. The other way is to order the tune, the PCM will be sent to you, you will install it, then send the stock one back to your tuner. There could be some slight variances to this, but that is how most do it.

So it is just when you are flashing it?

I just think the guys w/ stock 6.0's and Radix's runnin 12's are gettin off a lot easier than you... with the stroker and turbo... ya know?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> fix your ****ing quotes!!! yeah if i get any ideas of where to look ill mention that, but i like to go off of justin as well, he ran 12.3 with 15#s on his 6.0, im running 10#s....so we'll see... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Who ran 15lbs boost on a stock 6.0L? Assuming that is what you meant. Sounds like some serious parallex error on the gauge to me. I'll put it this way, I have no power adder, but when and if I get to the track I expect to be below 13 somewhere very close to your time. With your setup it is kind of hard to say where you "should" be, but I would think low 11s would be easily attainable with a 408 and turbo. Maybe high 11s with only 10lbs of boost. It would be easier to say if there was another combo like yours that had been to the track to compare. Right now, there isn't. So just speculation.

Must have been a big curb?

i think he is planning on a 454 small block , doesent speed engeneering already have the 4l80 kit? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That was why I was asking. If he was using them or not. Can a small block go to 454? Never heard of that. Maybe I need to google that. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It's a new thing. Not sure if it was posted here or on PT.net, but it popped up a few months back. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I read that - I was wanting to know if that is the route he was taking or not.

They also use 93 octane, but that is in fine print on the sticker.

Especially if it is half your weight <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You referring to yourself Ben? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Uhhh...maybe. Does it weigh 89lbs?

i think he is planning on a 454 small block , doesent speed engeneering already have the 4l80 kit? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That was why I was asking. If he was using them or not. Can a small block go to 454? Never heard of that. Maybe I need to google that.

uh Do you not get out much??? or get out during the day. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What is that supposed to mean? What's wrong with liking to be out on the water?? I am a Sailor. Aren't you due to go to Alaska again soon?? You were a lot quiter there. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> well you do live around the water just making sure you realize that. OH i will be coming thru this coming saturday and next saturday <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Not Bass waters. I have a tournament this Saturday - they moved the date up a week at our last meeting. Other members had regional tournaments to make. What time? I should be home about 6pm or so. Next week is cool.

Especially if it is half your weight

Even slight wheel spin could mean .1-.2 in a 1/4. My 5.3L 2WD could break them loose really easy. It would be super close with the advantage to the 2WD.

The 50s wouldn't have worked for you? 454? Enjoy that 8-9mpg. I'd do a 427 C5R long before a big block. I don't get trying to be the first....when it's all over who really cares? I just want to hear what you plan to do with your drivetrain to get the 80E in there. Also, how you plan to get the PCM swap to work out? What shop would be doing the work? Hope you don't use Makani's. Nothing against those guys but he is not even close to his potential.

uh Do you not get out much??? or get out during the day. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What is that supposed to mean? What's wrong with liking to be out on the water?? I am a Sailor. Aren't you due to go to Alaska again soon?? You were a lot quiter there.

Like I said, Sport Truck magazine did it with the dyno result on a NA truck. I looked at it this way,.....it didn't cost me anything.