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Posts posted by Cramer
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My laptop has it on it. Its slow but that's the laptops issue and not software. They do have a new version of efi live for download. Might want to try and uninstall the v7.5 and update the newer version.
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Although it's in a Mustang and powered by a RY motor, this is bad ass....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qanlirrRWs&feature=player_embedded
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Just keeping the intake and rails won't make any difference in what the tune is set up for. They have totally different ifr and pulse settings to name a few.I kept the intake and rails off of my 5.3 to put on the lq9. I thought of that too and that's why I asked him what year truck the tune was from. He told me 03 but maybe it was a late 03. I need to get him to check the IFR table to make sure, hes just always so busy and a duramax tuner mostly. first cammed ls motor hes tuned really. hes a smart guy and datalogged/tuned for a while, trying to give the benefit of the doubt lol.... that's why I want a zippy tune in the end though. It's damn cold here so the ambition to go outside is low but I'm gonna plug it and see if it helps. Might just have to wait for the new tune to see any progress.
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Well the major difference between the two years is that the 03 has a return style fuel system. The 04+ has a returnless. That could be the problem in itself.
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Hey thanks for the diagram of the oil path Ryan...too bad it's so damn small! And what happened to your other .01? Can't give a whole .02 to this topic?
OK OK! I'm sorry! I thought you were used to looking at little things so you'd have your magnifying glass with you.
No I will not give my other .01 cause I'm a cheap ass that may need it later on.
Here is a bigger pic for you. (tried on my phone last time.)
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Here is the oiling system passage diagram.
Pressure at the filter with gauge, no pressure with filter. Either the bypass on the cooler mount block is blocked (which was checked and isn't) or the filter is blocking it up with either the wrong filter, crap filter (fram) or the outlet between the filter and sensor is blocked. You have pressure at the filter, oil and pressure at the cooler lines, pressure to the sensor with the filter off and gauge installed. You also mentioned you had no lifter tick with the filter removed. This means the pump is pumping oil and not aerating the oil. The filter is about the only thing that can be the issue. I have had a bad o-ring and know that you will more than likely have pressure, but the flow of oil won't be there. If the system builds pressure its either oil pressure (won't have a ticking at the lifters), the oil pressure is aerated (has oil and air going through the system and not allowing the lifters to pump up and causes a tick and or knock) or its straight up air ( will have major damage and the ticking is just the warning. The culprit is prob the o-ring.
This is my .01 on this.
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[emoji8]The only thing that is stumping me is the fact that you have good oil pressure and flow when something is disconnected...whether it be the filter or a cooler line, whatever. But then when you close the system there is no pressure.
PS: Don't listen to Sinr, FRAM filters are by far the best you can buy...
Haha
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Fram filter? If so toss it in the trash and get a better quality filter.
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Are you looking for the actual pins that are from the wire that goes into the connector? Or are you looking for the actual pin placement for the fans to plug into?
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^^^ Same here
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More than likely its the tires rolling over itself on the sidewall. When I had the stock size tires on mine I would have the same thing happen. Went to a shorter sidewall and haven't had it since. It could also be ball joints or tie rods but since its recently been aligned they should have checked them at that time.
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I will have to wait till next year to get a good vid of how it runs now. And for his other boat it's a fun ride too. He wants me to buy his little 30' with the 502 and Procharger..... But the wife says no.
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Current set up sounds great. Are you changing other stuff as well as the cam?
Yes I will be changing the whole top end this winter, as well as fuel system(s) and front and rear suspension. It's going to be a big change!
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Its a TR224r its been in there for about 5yrs. Stepping it up on the next one.
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This is the same setup from the muffler back. Everything from the headers to it was redone. Same cam as before but she's a tiny one compared to my new cam that's going in.
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Got my exhaust done finally, and I'm loving it.
Details and more pics coming soon.
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Here is a vid I took of my buddys boat that I helped tune, and did some other work to. Got it to 86mph at 3/4 throttle and had some issues with the new distributors. Twin 572's with a good amount of work done to them. We ended up locking the timing after this and it runs even better now. This was his 5th time driving the boat so he was getting used to it. He has another boat with a 502 and Procharger that is faster.
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I am sending out the valve covers Monday. [emoji106]
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PM sentThe tooling/broaches to do the splines would be thousands of dollars, plus quite a bit of machine work on the rest of it. I had it quoted at several places and there isn't anywhere near the volume to get the prices down reasonable per gear.
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Oh yeah!
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Supposedly the trucks from the Mexico plant are not having this issue. The ones assembled in the US are. Also was told that some frames had the trans cross member bolts out of alignment and caused a bind in the trans and mount. Idk if its true or not.
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A guy I work with had the same problem. He still has a minor vibration at 30-45 but the vibration at higher speeds is gone. He had the rear end rebuilt to take care of the high speed vibration. I don't have an issue with mine yet but I only have 1200mi on it.
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I started mounting a set of factory fogs and couldn't do it. I didn't like the oversize of it compared to the ducts.
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6.2 before and after tune
in Video & Photography
Posted
Definitely can tell a difference in rpm drop. And it seems to shift more solid. Nice job!