Cramer
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Posts posted by Cramer
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I am running Kumho Ecsta STX in 275/45r20 and love them.
I only have about 1500 miles on them so far but they handle great and have no road noise. The only down fall is they are a directional tire. they look good too.
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Yes but its my own fault for the most part. Its mounted under the cab with side exit before the rear wheel.
I had a Magnaflow for a few years. Loved the way it sounded with the stock tail pipe but the packing blew out in less than a year. Then dumped it and it was obnoxious
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I was going to go but can't get off of work now. I know of about 20 people who go every year and the love it
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Borla FTW!
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I was a test engineer for hub assemblies. I saw the good and bad and what made them good and bad. If you got a good set of USA made bearings I don't doubt that they are quality. Most of the cheaper timkens are foreign made and of less quality than US made. I would still say that the timkens are better quality and have a better warranty.
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The Timkens are better for quality if they are USA made by far. SKF is the best but a little more expensive. Both should have a 3yr warranty. The Moogs are mostly rebranded foreign made bearings with poor quality materials. I would stay away from any hub assembly not made here.
Spend a little more on quality now or replace them sooner than you wanted.
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I get mine from here
http://www.freedomammunition.com/?product_cat=ammunition
Awesome prices for bulk ammo and a bonus is that his shop is 15min from my house and on my way to work. I have put 2500 rounds of his through 4 different handguns of 4 diff calibers with only one FTF.
I have another 5k rounds of his in my case.
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This along with getting the motor to operating temp right before you are doing the removal. Take a drift punch and a hammer and give the bolt a quick blow to the head.Soak them in PB Blaster. Do this a couple days in advance, several times. Prob be your best bet.
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The gasket ( if it is a MLS) can be reused. If the gasket has the rubber coating still on it your good to go. I would spray some copper seal on them for good measure, but the crush part of the gasket won't be an issue. Do replace the head bolts if they are factory torque to yield type bolts though. And be sure the head gaskets are installed correctly.
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Are you sure you didn't leave a rag or two in the cylinder? I have seen that done and have the same problem.
You can put about 300lbft of torque to the bolt but if it takes that much to rotate it over then you have a problem for sure.
Try and put the truck in 3rd gear, block the wheels about 2ft before and after the wheels. Have you and a buddy roll the truck to the blocks. Make sure you have a reference on the dampener like tape to see if and how much it moves going forward. If the truck won't budge just take the heads off and inspect everything. If you find nothing after removing the heads try to turn the short block over. If it rotates put it back together and see again. I am wondering if a lifter is stuck in the tray and wedging the cam.
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Now that is bad ass right there! Very unique and since it has a deeper meaning to you it makes it even better.
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Check the idler and pit an arms. When worn they will make the steering wheel feel sloppy and ride the course of the road.
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Nah no problems finishing anything. Just built my garage so I could build the truck at home. And I built it myself so it took time away from hearing nonsense and shit talk on here. I believe your truck is faster than a vette on a 200 pill and can run a 12 in the 1/4 as it sits. Yeah sarcasm there too.
And hell man man dude bro haven't you called out every truck here?
I will run you! My new setup to yours. Bring big boy shoes....
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I have done it both ways and never had a problem with either way. You just have to make sure all the air is out of the system.
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That is a great price but the quality of the materials are a concern. Quality paint and prep materials aren't cheap. The majority of body shops will use the economy line of paints, primers, sealers and clears. The heart of the paint is the prep, but a quality paint system will last and as you know from the hood and roof that can cost another few grand down the road.
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Got mine in the mail a month ago. Wish they would have taken better pics of her. She's still a beautiful piece of iron!
Btw Chris will you autograph my mag? Has to be the cover cause the pages are stuck together! Haha
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This^^^^True that the SS trucks getting older might have something to do with this site being so slow. And the fact that some of the "older" members have sold off their SS's does not help either.
I think there are a few other things going on. There are lots of members that still have their SS's but they just stopped coming on to this site because of pointless bickering, un-knowledgeable people giving out advice, moderators banning people, and locking threads, as well as some other issues.
I have stuck around even after I sold my SS, but I check this site less and less, and I have not found too many reasons to be super active when the site is so slow.
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In all honesty the slicks are hurting more than helping. Wheel speed will help more than a hook and shoot with the slicks. Slight spin at launch on some drag radials and it will help your 60'. Not terrible times but do yourself a favor and get it tuned before you try to get a pb.
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Are you bleeding the pump after install? And are you sure your hydro boost pump is connected correct?
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He is a part of the reason why I haven't been to this site for months. His bandwagon is the infamous V2. He doesn't run the cam, never installed one and checked PTV clearance on a LQ9 or measured pushrod length with it. Then gives out what is needed. Then gives a 400rpm difference in a converter stall.Yeap lil DB. Guy knows it all. Just like all kids lol. He just likes to spew crap when he don't know what the hell he's talking about. Kids like him are the ones that have ruined the site.
Over the past year he has minipulated his setup and praised his edge converter that's supposedly about done for and led a poor guy to bad advice on a converter. And his bad ass cam is so bad ass he chooses a shelf cam to sell to everyone.
The cam is decent for a truck. In a car its a torquer. I would pick 20 other shelf cams before that for a truck. Get a custom grind and be done.
Btw Mr burns I have a unique setup and another unique setup coming up. And its speced and built by me.
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Zach you beat me to it. I have been trying to help revive this site for the past year, and some others have as well. Like Brian, Danny, Jake etc. Butt hurt crybabies that know jack about what they are talking about get a free pass cause they are newbies??? I am done with this site as well, and ADMIN, please pm me on how to cancel my Supporting Membership.
Have a good one guys, and to those who I have made friends with and talk to off the site feel free to get ahold of me. You all have my #.
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Actually most of the reason people don't post on the site is because they use the search button and find most of the info they need like that. Then when they read that someone is suggesting off the wall stuff they shake their head and leave.
BTW anyone been to OHIO? Weez has itz haad yo!
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Doug, if he doesn't get it I will.
For sure
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lol , yeah and mine was a junk yard unit cost me $350 bucks and cam with a 4x4 transfer case that i sold for $250 so yeah got my trans for $100 plus shift kit . had my trans guy go through it to make sure it was ok and put my shift kit in, thing has never skipped a beat.if you get all your parts together swap shouldnt take longer then a day or two.
I was waiting for you to chime in on this. You forgot to add that you did the harness and trans cross member yourself too. And that was before you got comfortable wrenching on the truck.
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tall injectors vs short?
in Engine Tech And Modification
Posted
I might have another set of spacers and bolts laying around. I will try to find them this week if your interested.