Jordan836

I agree save your money and do it all at once. Dont cut corners, by putting a cam in that works good with a stock converter will be a waste of time for the most part because it wont be a very radical cam. Like Quick SSS said the best cam for a stock converter is a stock cam!

You can do the swap but its not going to hold up. Most of the people ive seen put T56s in silverados have taken them back out because they dont hold up behind a heavy truck. A friend of mine even had one in his regular cab 5.3 silverado and it broke then he pulled it our built it to viper specs and it still broke. The swap is more of a hassle than its worth. You might run into issues getting your speedo to work correctly youll need a custom drive shaft if you have the stock G80 rear diff youll have to take that out because youll grenade that real fast with a 6 speed manual,youll also need to re gear your rear end, youll need a crossmember out of a manual silverado and youll need a clutch pedal master cylinder slave cylinder out of a T56 car youll also need to trim your brake pedal or swap your brake pedal in order for the clutch pedal to fit. If you want my honest opinion dont even bother wasting your time with a 6 speed manual in a silverado especially a regular cab because it just wont hold up. And you still wont be able to shift a T56 in a truck like you can in a light car. I just wouldnt even bother. Ive said it before if anyone with a silverado plans on doing a trans swap just do an 80e swap then youll have no worries.

Ya I had a feeling nelson locked their tunes. I might just take the drive up to MA and have slowhawk street tune it for me.

Does anyone know of any good tuners in Connecticut that could street tune my SS? I was thinking of driving up to Slowhawk and have them do it since I have heard nothing but awesome things about them, but if I could find someone in the Connecticut area that would be perfect. I currently have a Nelson tune and I definitley think its holding my truck back and killing my fuel economy. I had basically the same tune on my regular silverado and it was awesome but I am not happy with this one at all, and I can never get a hold of anyone over there. I know alot of guys on here reccomend wheatley but I would much rather have a street tune specific for my truck that way I know its as good as it can be. Is there a chance my PCM is locked from nelson meaning that I would have to find another stock PCM because if the nelson PCM I have in there might be locked and wont be able to access it?

I say save your money and wait until you can afford a full new kit or a full used kit. Boost on an SS isnt something you want to cut corners on. Who are yo having tune your truck for boost? Have you built your tranny because you will definitley need that. I also wouldnt run it with out an intercooler that seems a little on the dangerous side. Keep in mind that once you start boosting you will most likley start breaking things, its not really just a bolt on and go deal and if the guy at STS tells you that its just a bolt on and go and you can drive 20 hours no problem with out an intercooler and only run 6 pounds of boost then its not going to be a very exciting set up and probably not worth spending that much money on a small starter kit. Buying a used set up isnt a bad idea you could also look into that. But once you start boosting you start spending alot of money, and you really dont want to cut corners on boosting an SS especially as far as tuning goes since the LQ9 is not a motor really too designed for boost unless the tuning is spot on, so pretty much if you cut corners and try to do it the cheap way your truck will be parked broken more than anything. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

I wouldnt spend money on a banks intake, im sure they work fine but for the power increase youll get its not worth the money. If I were you id get a cheaper intake and use the extra money towards other mods. As far as headers and cats, since your from CT youll need some sort of cats weather they are highflow cats or jus dummy cats, as long as it will pass inspection you will be all set, you will also need a tune which will also turn off your rear O2 sensors which will make it so you wont throw your check engine light so that wont come up on emissions testing either. As far as brand of headers Dynatech, American racing headers, Stainless works,and Kooks are the best ones you can buy but they get really pricey. I personally run Pacesetter ceramic coated longtubes, they are really good since they are ceramic coated so they dont discolor or rust, but the fitment could definitley be better. If you spend good money on longtubes you wont run into any fitment problems!

Id get it. Its just like an AEM with a different filter. I wouldnt run the filter it comes with though just swap the filter it comes with out for a real K&N filter and youll be good to go. No need to spend tons of money on an intake. They basically all do the samething. The volant ones are nice though but expensive!

Where abouts in CT are you from? And dont waste your money on any hand held programmers they dont do anything at all. Get a custom tune. As far as an intake if your thinking an AEM dont waste your money on the AEM get a spectre from Summit its the same exact thing just with a different filter. I paid $140 for mine and just put on a K&N filter and it works perfect.

Thats good to know! But this morning I erased the codes again because I cant stand having that light on in the dash it drives me crazy and the light hasnt come back on all day? Im not sure why because I erased it twice yesterday and it came right back after about 30min of driving. But I did the same driving today that I do everyday and the light didnt come back on.

Ya from what ive been reading it sounds like a common issue. Im definitley going to have it taken care of probably sometime next week when I have a little more time. I just wanted to make sure it wont mess up the truck if I drive it until then? But I definitley plan on getting it fixed thats for sure.

This morning when I started my truck I noticed my check engine light was on and it wasnt on yesterday so I hooked up my code reader and it showed I was throwing code P0449 for the EVAP emisson control system valve/solenoid malfunction I wasnt really sure what it was so I just erased the code hoping it was just a random thing and once I got to work I did a little research on it and then when I started it again It came back. My questions are what is the proper way to fix whatevers wrong, how much of a pain is it to fix, and will it hurt anything by driving the truck when its throwing that code. I think I read somewhere you can turn off the monitor in the tune so I cant really see it being that big of a deal? But the reason why I ask that is because its my daily driver and work is super busy and I wont really have time until sometime next week to get it taken care of. What exactly causes that solenoid or whatever it is to fail? When I read it quick this morning I thought at first I might have a bad O2 sensor I knew it couldnt be my cats because I have LTs with a catless Y pipe along with a tune to turn off the rear O2 sensors. But if anyone has any info that would be cool. Its an 03 SS with LTs catless Y pipe nelson tune and other little things. Basically I want to know if its bad to drive the truck while its throwing the code. I was thinking It might start to guzzle gas but I havent really noticed it doing that.

Well if they said you needed $900 of suspension work a year ago and nothing has happend yet id assume they didnt know what they were talking about. But as far as oil changes theres an economy oil in vernon that I know some people go to, you could always go to a chevy dealer to do it to. Im not to sure of places out that way to reccomend to change oil since I do it myself. But as far as performance shops theres J&M motorsports on broad street in manchester their good. But I personally use a shop called Altered Image Customs in Plainfield CT for any work I cant do myself. He does a great job as exhaust work to I had him fab me up a custom stainless exhaust hes pretty much good at anything so Im sure if you brought it there hed be able to tell you if you need $900 of suspension work. Does your truck ride like crap? $900 is alot of suspension work Id think if it really needed that it would feel like it was falling apart!

It may be just me but I dont think I would ever tow with my SS. The trannys have enough trouble staying alive with nothing attatch to them I cant imagine towing much of anything makes them last any longer especially a 30 foot camper. Not saying the SS cant tow I just personally would never do it. But if you plan on it the helper bags would be a good investment and everything everyone else has said so far are good suggestions as well a good tune will help too. And get a nice big tranny cooler to keep the tranny cool. I see your from VA im not sure where but if you plan on towing that camper up alot of hills that tranny cooler will help big time. I still personally never plan on towing anything with my SS, if the funds are available id personally just get a duramax for towing. I may be over cautious by not towing anything but up here in new england there is plenty of hills and I just couldnt put my SS through any brutal towing, but if its your ownly vehicle and you really want a camper that big then Id imagine you would be ok for a little while.

That Y pipe wont fit your SS!! You can kind of cut it up and make it work but If I were you I would just fab up another one. Thats what I did. Plus that pacesetter Y pipe is just uncoated steel so it will rust unless you have it coated! If you want to keep it cheap use the stock Y pipe just cut the cats out that piping is plenty big enough. On my set up I went to a single magnaflow kind of like it would be if you used the pacesetter Y pipe but I had a custom on made that pacesetter one wont fit without some work!

That would make sense. I was planning on replacing the bulbs soon anyway so I guess now is a good time to do it.

Today on my way to work I noticed when I turn on my right blinker the green arrow blinks really fast and so do the blinkers themselves. At first I thought maybe I hd a blinker out or something but they all seem to be working, so any ideas why my right blinker is blinking faster than the left all of a sudden? Am I missing something?

I never thought Id see that question asked!!!!! But like everyone says NO! Youd be better off putting a blowdryer in there and running it with a generator in your bed.

Another Texas Speed FTW. Awesome people to deal with!

What bolts did you break off? You might be able to get them out without pulling the heads. Like said above theres no point in spending money and dealing with the fuel system by upgrading the intake manifold just to run a bigger throttle body on a stock truck. If you want to mess with your throttle body port your stock one or just leave it alone, either way the stock intake and throttle body are just fine. Save that money and get a good tune! Youll notice the tune big time.

Like oil changes and stuff?? Or what kind of work are you looking for??

I ported a stock throttle body. I havent gotten around to putting it on yet but ive heard some good things about people porting them and noticing better throttle response. I dont really see anything wrong with porting them as long as you do it right and dont touch where the blade seals. Whatever you do dont waste money on that BBK 80mm throttle body they sell but the 3 bolt truck intake. Port your stock one instead. But a good tune will help that as well.

Alright so the SS just turned over 88k and from what I can see the previous owner never replaced the shocks so needless to say they are over due for replacements. I drove from florida to connecticut the other day and it was the most bouncy bone jarring ride I think ive ever had. i was cringing the whole way. But ive been leaning towards the Bilsteins or possibly the Edlebrock IAS's I want the best ride possible because the ride is miserable now so if anyone out there likes another brand shock besides the Bilsteins and Edlebrocks dont be afraid to chime in! Also just another note I have DJM drop shackles in the back and the torsion bars cranked down a little bit in the front with the front bump stops trimmed and the rear ones trimmed and mounted to the frame. Im assuming I would still use a stock length shock with that set up?

I personally think any manual transmisson in a silverado is a waste of time even more so using one out of an HD since those arent made to be slamming gears so its pretty much be like driving a train. Or like a diesel truck with a manual. Id just stick with the auto tranny. If you had money set aside to swap in a manual you could always use that to build your auto tranny.

Everyone ive ever heard of trying to put a T56 manual has had problems. A friend of mine had one in his regular cab silverado with a pretty stout 5,3 and he grenaded it, and that was in a RCSB so I cant imagine you would get good results by putting on in a ECSB SS unless you drive it like a granny. Once he blew the first T56 he had it rebuilt to viper spec and still broke it those 6 speed manuals just arent built to be behind a heavy truck. Not to mention all the work you have to do to get it to work. Youll need a crossmember, entire clutch pedal assembly youll have to either cut the brake pedal or replace it with one out of a 5speed im pretty sure to fit the cluth pedal down there youll beed a custom drive shaft then youll for sure have to get rid of the stock G80 rear diff because youll grenade that with only a couple hard shifts, youll also probably wanna swap gears too, and then im pretty sure its kind of a pain to get the speedo to work right with the T56. If I remember correctly my friend and his tuner spent quite a long time trying to get his speedo to work right. And then after all that work you still wont have a strong transmisson. He recently ditched the T56 and swaped in a 4l80e. The only way youll really get a T56 to last in a silverado is if you drive it like an old lady which would defeat the purpose of having a 6speed. Everyone Ive seen swap in the T56 has taken them back out and replaced them with the auto again because the manuals just dont hold up in a silverado. Keep in mind too just by putting a 6speed manual from a comaro in your SS wont make it shift and drive like a comaro.

Hmmm thats all really good info thanks alot. It for sure gives me something to think about. The thing that caught my eye is the bang for the buck factor. Now is the easiest way to get one just by looking for rebuilt ones on ebay? Or go to a junkyard and try to find one? Or just wait until one pops up on here of over on pt.net? Anything special I should really look for when buying one? I know its the one out of the I6 but wasnt sure if I should look for anything else!