Jordan836

What other mods do you have on your truck? If your stock and just want to replace your stock cats with Highflow cats I dont think youd really notice a power increase maybe a sound increase but most people say the stock GM cats flow ok. If you have/or getting longtube headers and are making a custom exhaust after a headers and are asking if its better to run high flow cats or no cats then thats pretty much personal preference. I dont run any cats with my longtubes but Im thinking about putting some in. But regardless dont gut your cats in any situation itll sound like crap if you dont want cats then cut them out and weld in pipe in their place but then youll have to get a tune to turn off your rear 02 sensors because not having cats will throw the check engine light high flow cats might even cause a check engine light with out having a tune. But basically give us a little more info on your truck and what mods you have and what your looking to do.

I think you might have better luck either dropping the price quite a bit or selling the muffler and tip seperate and putting the rest to the side. I say that just because basically thats paying $300 plus shipping for the muffler since most likley they already have everything else in that set up. And someone can buy a muffler for around $100 bucks maybe cheaper and have an exhaust shop weld it up for probably $80. Im not trying to inhibit your sale I just think youd have better luck selling it differently.

Ive heard they fit good. They are basically the old style dynatechs. I dont think you can use that Y pipe they have pictures unless you modify it but the headers will bolt right up

I just got my aeroforce interceptor and I wan to mount it in the cubby to the left of the steering wheel just like this http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3157/1981/7890990064_large.jpg But unlike this picture I dont want the gauge to be sitting behind the dash like that I want to cut out around it so it looks nice and clean. I think some people on here have some gauges mounted just like the picture but they look alot better. My main question is how would I go about making room behind the dash for the gauge to fit in the cubby it self is too narrow so I either have to cut it where the gauge is going to go or just take the cubby out all together which is kind of what I was thinking about doing. I have access to a full machine shop so I was thinking about making a custom place to take place of that cubby to hold the gauge either out of aluminum or black plastic and then just bore a hole for the gauge in it, but im just not sure how I would exactly secure the plate. Another thing im trying to figure out is where the cubby clips into the plastic frame that olds the air vent and light buttons I think ill have to cut away some of the frame itself to make the gauge fit. Basically if anyone out there who has gauges mounted in the cubby to the left of the steering wheel has pictures of how they mounted the gauge that would be perfect!

There the same headers they are the Pacesetter ceramic coated quick trip long tube headers. And yes the fit the 6.0 the only thing that wont fit on the 6.0 is the Y pipe they offer that you can buy with the headers thats for the 4.8's and 5.3's so if you order the headers order just the headers the $374.99 ones. I ran them on my 5.3 and I run them on my SS too so theres no question about them fitting. They are really a good header for the money. I noticed your from CA. I always hear they have really strict emissons laws over there and I dont think with longtubes youll be able to pass emissons which is why some guys in CA run short tube headers. But short tube headers are a waste of money. But before you buy the long tubes check into the emissons laws and ask how the CA. guys on here get around emissons or are able to pass emissions with long tubes!

Thats also good to know. So pretty much it might be a good idea to run the TR5's or TR5ix's since they are set to the GM reccomended gap? Rather than run the TR55's or TR55ix's.

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=654&catid=20 Heres a link to the headers on Texas speed. So far its the cheapest Ive found them for. Make sure you dont buy the Y pipe with the headers just get the headers the Y pipe they sell is for the 4.8 and 5.3 truck and wont work on the SS. Youll either have to find a way to connect the headers to your stock Y pipe which Im pretty sure youll have to remove your cats to do so, or get a custom Y pipe made to connect to the headers and connect to your exhaust then youll have to get a tune as well to make sure you have no check engine lights and the tune will make you get the most power out of the truck with the headers. And make sure you get a good mail order tune or dyno tune and dont buy any hand held programmers. Hope this helps! Ive had 2 sets of these headers both from Texas speed and ive had good luck with them they seem to last just fine even in the winter. The only problems ive had is on the passanger side one of the pipes hits the frame and rattles.

Check out Texas speed and performance for the headers. there cheaper. I think I paid $426 shipped for mine from them.

The truck just has LTs exhaust intake tune and a shift kit and servos. I dont plan on doing anything to crazy right away but like you said changing plugs isnt that big of a deal so I dont really mind changing them if I have to due to certain mods. As of right now Id like to do it on the cheap side if I can since im taking my trip to FL which isnt a cheap trip

Hmm that actually gives me something to think about. Not that gapping plugs is a big deal but I would must rather not spend the time to gap them and if the iridiums last almost double the time thats good too. Maybe ill just go with the iridiums. But do you have any idea what the plugs should be gapped too if I decide to go with the non iridiums?

Ya thats exactly what I was thinking theres for sure a big difference in price and im making the long trip from CT to FL in 2 weeks to ride dirt bikes for the winter so every bit of coin I can save right now is good in my book!

Ok so my new taylor plug wires should be here in the next couple days and I have to go pick up some plugs and Im a big NGK fan so I want to run NGKs my question is do I have to run the NGK tr55ix plugs or can I run the regular NGK tr55 plugs. I ran the non iridium ones (tr55's) in my 5.3 silverado and had good luck but wasnt sure if this motor required the iridium plugs thus meaning I should run the tr55ix plugs. Is there any real benifit between one or the other?

Thats embarrassing. Those ford 5.4s are gutless even a supercharger cant make them fast. Theres a video on youtube of car and driver or one of those car mags testing the roush f150 that you spend like an extra 16 grand ontop of the price of the truck and its supercharged and it only runs like a 14.9 second 1/4 mile and 6.9 second 0-60. Thats redicilous. And now all the ford guys are talking all big about the 6.2 and even that truck is embarrassing ford should just stop making vehicles, or find new engineers!

All those numbers seem good to me. Hell id be happy getting even 50 bucks for them there just sitting around at my house so any money is good money. Im going to try and get rid of them today.

Thats good to know all the ones I have are good so hopefully I can get a little more. Did you bring them to a scrap yard? Or a junk/salvage yard?

I have 1 or 2 sets of stock cats laying around my house from my silverados and I was thinking about bringing them to a scrap yard and seeing how much theyll give me for them. Anyone have an idea on what a stock cat in good condition might be worth to a scrap yard? Anyone here ever scrap their stock cats? If so how much did you get for them?

That thing is junk any "chip" is junk/ Chips belong in bags!! The only thing that should touch your computer is a a real tune done by a tuner who uses program such as HP tuners, EFI live etc. You would me more likley to get more horsepower from a window sticker than you would that Gforce chip

Ya I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. I"ll just keep and eye on it and see if it does anything strange again. Thanks for the help!

For the servos check out www.oregonperformancetransmisson.com thats where I got mine its very easy to order from that way youll always know your getting the right thing rather than buying on ebay when on ebay you might not be quite as sure of what your getting. I have the corvette 1-2 servo and the sonnax billet 4th servo and the billet accumulator piston the prices were the cheapest I found and I knew I was buying the right parts. If your looking for a transgo hd-2 look on summit thats where I got mine and it was much cheaper there than other places I looked!

Alright so this weekend I cleaned the MAF to see if that would help and it seemd to help for a little while it idled fine but then it seemed once I drove it for about 15min it seemd to go back to idling around 500-550 rpms. I got home and when I was in the drive way when I had it in gear I was just playing around with some things and with the windows up all the way when I pull up on the window switches the headlights dim and the rpms go down even lower and I can actually hear the engine change rpms then you let go of the window switches and the headlights are normal brightness but the idle still goes back to 550rpms which I think is low but correct me if Im wrong. But after all that I thought maybe it had to do with the little stero system I put in because it started idling low a few days after I put it in. The stero system consists of a Pioneer AVH4100dvd a rockford fosgate t-400 amp a 12in sub and 4 gauge power wire that goes through the firewall over to the battery with an inline fuse and fuse holder before it attaches to the battery its pretty simple. But I thought that since my the truck started to idle low not long after I hooked the system up maybe that was the issue so I disconnted the power wire for the amp from the battery and started the truck up while it was still warm but it didnt make a difference it still did the same thing when I pulled up on the window switches and still idled low. So could this possibly mean my battery is bad and just doesnt have enough juice to power everything it has to power and that might be what is making my truck idle low? Having the heat on all the time wouldnt really make a difference would it? Its gotten cold here in CT and ive always got the heat on and right around the same time I started using theheat more is right around when it started idling low but I dont really see how that could make a diference. And I had this same stero system set up the same exact way in my old 5.3 Silverado excepet I had put a brand new optima yellow top in it and I have no problems at all so I dont see how it could be something with the way I have my stero set up its gotta be the battery itself Id think. But just for good measure what should is the ideal idle RPM for these truck? As of now once the truck it warmed up it idles around 700-750rpms in park then in reverse of drive it goes down to around 500-550rpms. I appreciate any thoughts on what might be going on I really need to figure this out ASAP because im making the drive from Connecticut to Florida in a couple weeks to ride dirtbikes down there for the winter so Id really like to get this figured out before I leave that way I dont have to deal with it down there! And if its something I can fix easily myself id much rather do that than bring it to the dealer and have them figure it out!!

Oh man so thats your truck. Ive been drooling over that truck on ebay for a while If I had the money for a second SS that would be the one I want. Awesome truck free BUMP!

Yaaa that all makes sense now

I had my passenger front wheel off this afternoon and I noticed the brake rotor had sid to side play not really any up and down but I could pull the rotor towards me and push it back I just wasnt sure if this was normal or not?? Im not to familiar with brakes so I figured Id ask. Ive been having a vibration latley at around 72ish mph but then also at other speeds at random times so If this isnt normal I was almost thinking it could be the vibration im feeling?

Ya exactly either way its good for future reference! I cleaned the MAF today and that seemed to help the idle but I havent driven it yet but it seemed to idle a little smoother and it seemed to rev a little smoother too. But when I drive it ill know for sure

Ya Im going to check all those things before I mess with the fuel pump but ive just been kind of wondering about it the past week that if I do have to replace the pump I just figured it would be easier to replace it with a walbro instead of just putting a stock one in when I have to replace it again down the road. But thanks for the help!