TYMBOM

It is a Finish Line Transmission(brand) and it is their level 5 product.

Transmission will be the first to go if you don't.

I will jump in and stick my neck out here a little bit. I own an AV shop. Yes speciality cables ie. Monster for one are expensive. Generally there are huge differences in cables. HDMI is one that can be debated till forever so I won't. The biggest difference comes into play with analog cable and not digital cables like HDMI. The part most people do not realize, is that there is no money in TV's, period. In the industry we call it the race to zero. Truth be told, if we didn't have add on's like the cables, surge protectors, etc, there would be no store there to go to the products in person. Everybody loves getting paid on payday, we like getting one too. Using the average Monster HDMI at $120. Cost on that is approx. $60 for the store it is sitting in. It is the exact same idea as Oakley sunglasses and Burton snowboarding equipment. Yes, the store is trying to make a whopping $60 from you. Take into account all utilities, staff, rent, etc, etc. I know, most people don't care. I can rant about it all day. There is still a lot to be said about customer service or lack of if you buy online. Sorry for the rant but I deal with it every day. Anway, to touch on your actual question, for your CURRENT products, a cheapy HDMI will be fine. It will become more important when all of the new HDMI version's come online and how good your other AV gear is. Bottom line is that you will be fine with an inexpensive one, but just buy one from your local retailer ;)

It's funny because it has happened to all of us and it use to be us, lol. It's funny because it has happened to all of us and it use to be us, lol.

This was too funny not to pass on or too share. http://www.blip.tv/file/2027737

Nicely played, lol. Same idea with my 6 piston brakes, they have saved me twice now from harm.

I am no where near an expert but I can tell you that the shop that did my build just got all of the internals cryo treated and all seems fine to me so far.

I was saying that the cost isn't a big deal but day to day climbing over the bars getting in and out are a pain. I agree, that truck had one of the nicer setups and his rear window didn't look too bad either. I do have a bed cover and would really want to keep it. It locks and keeps punks from messing with my meth tank and ice box if I have it parked somewhere over night. I also agree withthe saftey but that is what I am weighing, if going to the track often and "legal" is worth it "to me". That's why I'm asking others thoughts, I'm still kinda on the fence. Thanks for the link, if I do end up doing it I will use that as my guideline for looks

Which transmission do you have? The highest level I had heard of from them was a level 5. Learn something everyday

I'm with you man. Let me know what you end up doing, lol.

I only got to the track once last season and did 11.47 then an 11.48 before they kicked me off. If all goes well, it'll see a 10.-- next year. There is still more in it. Even with that possibility, I still don't want to do a roll bar or worse, a cage. I have never seen one that appealed to me. Is anyone else going to do one or have one done?

I have noticed there are a few people here faster than 11.49 and some soon to be. Is there anyone here that has put in a roll bar? I am personally fighting this decision if I should do it or not. I just don't think it'd be worth it. Not cost wise, but even for looks on the street. After all, I didn't build a trailer queen, it is a street truck first. I think personally I will do my one trip a year, rip off a good time, then get kicked off of the track until next season when they forget about me. What are all of your thoughts?

That's awesome man, good job.

You guys are lucky. I'm at least 5 months away before I can even thing about driving mine again and even longer before the track is open. Damn snow.

The options are endless. Google RF universal remote and have your pick, lol. I have never had an issue with the Harmony personally.

This is actually what I do. I own a custom A/V business. The most inexpensive solution is one of the Logitech Harmony remotes or a Monster, etc, etc, that is RF and then converts back to IR at the rack to flash the gear. The solution that we do most of the time is Control 4. It is more money but it is the start of an entire home automation if you wanted or as simple as the best universal remote you could have. You would also have the option to use an iPhone or iTouch as your remote as well. http://control4.com/

Agreed. The only problem would be the shop. I did that as well but found out the hard and expensive way that he really couldn't make it stand up to my abuse, lol. No matter what he claimed up front

Quite a few people on here have gone through multiple 60's, including myself. Just from my personal experience and the thousands of wasted dollars, I wish I had done my FLT level 5 4L80 the first time. I guess it comes down to money too. There is a lot more to do the 80 swap than just doing a rebuild on your 60.

I will attempt to find it. I have it parked now but I for sure will look into it. Thanks a million.

Your's is nicer.

I'm sure this will get a lot of mixed and heated responses. I know what I would do if someone sexually abused my child. Terrible situation all in all.

Bump!!!! Sweet price

I honestly can't remember when it started. All I know is that it drives me crazy and that I know nothing about the mechanic's involved in the steering. That is one of the only things that is still stock on the truck and I'll look into improving it next summer I guess. Thanks for your response Anybody else have any info or experience on the issue?

Bump. Anyone...please, lol.

I can't really answer your question, but, I can tell you that every single one of my runs was in 4x4. It is still the stock transfer case but I did get the internals cryo treated.