matt 2k12

Sorry double posted for some reason

that's kinda what I was thinking since it was "after the sensor" but it is actually in close proximity, about 2 or 3 inches. I still think its enough to cause the lean reading in that nearby sensor. That being said, which intake parts specifically should I check? It has to be something that only affects bank 2 right? Can't be my MAF or throttle body, can it? Because that would affect both banks... right? Thanks for the responses and thanks in advance.

See attached photo. Not too long ago I went thru a long drawn out ordeal with stuttering and misfiring and it turned out to be bad O2s from water. Well I got this Bank 2 lean code throwing again after a little off roading and when I went to replace the sensor I saw this exhaust leak. Obviously I need to fix the leak but I have some questions for those of you here more knowledgeable with the platform: 1- Is this leak causing the lean condition in the adjacent O2 sensor? Seems logical. 2- Is this lean condition going to affect my tune and foul my plugs? In other words, is my PCM going to incorrectly adjust for this "lean condition" and foul my bank 2 plugs? 3- Would it be best to pull the sensor until I can get the leak fixed to keep the PCM from adding fuel or otherwise compensating? 4- Would pulling the sensor and driving till the weekend be worse than leaving the sensor with the exhaust leak? I have new O2 sensors and new plugs so I dont want to foul them or have one side with more wear than the other. Thanks in advance.

Well last weekend I tackled this job and first thing noticed that the rear right brakes were shot, the rotor was bad. After I took the wheel off and took the caliper off I realized the capiler was also bad. Looked like the right rear wheel was just on constant braking while the other 3 were fine. The rotor was worn thru on the back side, thats why I never saw it from the front. The caliper was completely destroyed. I went ahead and replaced the vehicle speed sensor in the transmission and the shudder is gone.

OK I ran the code that was thrown when the brake pads disintegrated onto the driveway and the only code thrown was "System Too Lean (Bank 2)"

Thanks yall. Where is the best place to buy these parts?

So VSS is #1 in that diagram?

Ok that is great info about the VSS. Are there any diagrams or PDF manuals available online? Im a big time DIYer. Is the VSS easy to access and change without removing other parts or is it like inside the transmission case? Also, my transmission was rebuilt about 20 or 30k miles ago and my fluid is all still nice and bright red. I think the transmission itself is still running strong. But I'm sure the VSS has close to 180k or 200k miles on it. The bell housing / tranny actually came from a different truck with more miles than mine. Either way, the stock sensor has well over 100k miles on it, wether it came from my truck or the donor truck.

Its definitely lighter and dare I say faster in stock form. I like to think that my VHO is even faster with the stock body panels and everything else being the same (motor, tranny) as the 2WD SS. A lot of the time the Firebird Formulas were faster than TAs or WS6 because of the heavier trim packages.

Well I might have "burnt thru" or flat out nuked my ABS module today as well. Something broke and clunked when my CEL came on. Hopefully it is just for a warning and not a damaged module. Im gonna try to run codes this evening. EDIT - when you were doing this diagnosis, was the ABS doing this on the front or rear wheel(s)? Is the speed sensor on all 4 wheels?

Well after my lunch break I was headed back to work and I decided to crawl under the rear of the truck and try and pull these wires. I was hesitant as I couldn't really see anything that looked "wirey".... I for sure saw the E brake and the brake fluid lines coming to the knuckle, but couldn't locate the speed sensor in that moment. So I decided to leave and while backing out I heard a loud clunk from the rear of the truck and got a CEL on the dash. I went forward, braked, no clunk, I went reverse again, it clunked and shit out some brake material all over the driveway. For some reason only in reverse, but my brakes are going bad in the rear. I need new pads at least. The rotors still look fine. I wonder if it is due to the speed sensors? The fronts dont seem to be having the same problem. There is a lot of mud and dirt caked onto the underside of the truck and I also had to replace O2s recently because the truck is lowered and I drove it in the rain. Doubtful that would harm anything though as wheels are meant to be more exposed to water typically than exhaust pipes. Also the truck probably has 130-150 k on it right now... Maybe these are just parts that go bad over time. But how could the speedo be going bad, and the *rear* brakes, at the same time? I know its not unheard of but usually two things happening at the same time are related.

YES, there is a mechanical, almost electrical, buzzing sound (when I push the brakes). Only now, I am also hearing a mechanical, rubbing sound like actual brakes rubbing (not the high pitched squeel but the low pitched braking sound like from a train or bus) when first starting to come to a stop from a ways out. I am worried that now I am damaging other parts. What could this noise be? What other parts am I potentially damaging? The shudder started about a week ago I thougt it was due to oil, like I said. I never considered that my speed sensors were going bad. I thought it was a problem with the dash and speedo itself. It first started when I came to a hard stop about 3 or 4 weeks ago. When I came to a full stop my speedo still read 45. But the truck ran fine. No shuddering, no weird noises. FFWD to 2 weeks ago and i start noticing a slight shudder when just coming to a stop. at first it was very slight, coinciding with my oil life counting down to zero. Over the past 2 weeks it has gotten worse and worse. Now, that problem with the speedo has been returning more and more and not on any intense driving, just DD duties. Sometimes it reads 120 sitting still in front of my garage. Right now the speedo is "fine" but still the truck is shuddering. The shudder goes thru the entire body of the truck. I can feel it start from the front or back, and it moves thru the cabin like a soundwave passing by. I think it is my stall getting bad readings and responding incorrectly to the situation. It almost seems like I have 1 wheel or some offset number of wheels that are doing different things, maybe with the braking system, and so now some of my brake pads or rotors are maybe off centerline(?). They all look fine on the visual inspection and the rotors are still smooth, but while driving, it almost seems like I have a rear wheel wobbling now. Do I need speed sensors? Can I unplug them until I can purchase new ones and keep driving until then? Can anyone more knowledgable please give me a rundown of how realistic any of this stuff is that I laid out here? I am pointing towards the speed sensors and now I just want to destroy them. I hope the truck can run OK without them.

OK y'all I verified that its not my brakes (edit) transmission. I think it could be my speed sensor throwing off my stall. Is there any chances of damage and would the damage occur to the stall, tyranny, or both? Can someone please tell me how to unplug the speed sensor? I am positive this is the issue as lately my speedometer has been way off like showing 120 while sitting still.

Guys just drop in an alumarad radiator and forget about it.

OK guys I have this shuddering taking place when I come up to a stop, right when I get there or right before the stop the car gives a shudder for about 1 second. Since I was due for an oil change I thought this was the culprit but after a change the problem still persists. I noticed a small leak under the engine that may have lost up to a quart of oil since the last oil change. Hopefully I didn't cause any permenant damage to engine harmonics. I have also had a brake booster message popping up since buying the truck, most likely due to the particular camshaft I'm running. Haven't had any real brake problems but maybe this shuddering is entirely brake related? Somebody help me out here! Thanks in advance

Yeah really... cmon guys. Free Shipping.

Hey yall I have some spare parts I need to get rid of. When I was trying to fix my misfiring I bought these parts but ended up not needing them. They are all OEM, Delphi, AC Delco, whatever.New in Box. I want $110 for the Mass Air and $60 for each of the rear O2 sensors. I will take $210 for all, shipped Fedex with tracking. Please call me or text me. I accept paypal. 432-2one2-9654 [email protected]

Just remembered the name of this thread is: Broke Another Piston With Boost.

Thanks for the help!

Yeah I got adaptor/spacers. I like the smaller, lighter wheel.

I think your tires would be shorter than the ones im looking at - how wide are stock SS wheels?

Well I went ahead and swapped it out last night. What should I ask for this new MAF with only a couple hundred miles on it? I think it cost me like $130 brand new...

So in trying to diagnose my misfiring I replaced a few things and one of them was my old MAF which didn't have a screen with a new one that did have a screen. Apparently the MAF wasnt the problem so I think my old one was still good. I must say I think there is a difference in the two. Small but slightly noticable difference and I think I prefer the one without the screen. Just wondering what the conventional wisdom was regarding this mod and if it actually provided any benefit over the screened version cuz it seems like something is just a little different now. Thanks in advance.

Hey yall, I have these Toyo Proxes St IIs that I have really enjoyed. They havent ever went flat on the dirt roads or the jobsites or the highways. So I want another set. I want to go wider and maybe taller than my current tire which is a 275/45/20 on (4x)8" TBSS wheels. Toyo makes a 285/50/20 and I want to know if yall think that would be too big? Also do you think I would have any problems with rubbing? I like to hop curbs occasionally and like I said drive it offroad like a truck is meant to be. I would hate to start tearing up my tires by rubbing them on the wheel well. Anyone have input for me I should know before hand. In the attached picture it looks like I have plenty of room.... TIA EDIT - For reference the 285/50/20 would be around 31.25" tall... Also, the wheel spacers I'm running are 1.25".