matt 2k12

It was totally one or both of the O2 sensors. I only have the front 2 sensors and my truck is on a 2/4 drop. Not to mention I dont know if they were in the stock locations since I have headers. But they were caked inmud and had surely been nearly submerged in water at some point.... Thanks for the lead. I have a feeling this may be a recurring problem diue to my street and the height of the truck... Thanks again Blown 346

Hey did yall miss me? Yall can say I dont know shit while you keep wondering why your trucks are blowing up, thats a fair deal. I have nothing to prove to you guys. I have never blown up one of my boosted motors for some reason. And to anyone questioning the capabilities of my twin turbo car, I had it all posted on this site in the garage area or whatever but thats gone now. Plus my car is a GT car I dont do drag strip racing. I ran the supercharged Ls7 on the street from a 30 roll. Take it or leave it. As far as the T28 comment which I made offhandedly there are obviously other turbos that could fit on the application my point was using something used or refurbished and widely available including gt30s and larger turbos. Doesnt really matter cuz it would be a backyard project anyways, you know? But no, I mentioned I have an import, so everything I say automatically gets the presumption of wrongness, ignorance, etc rather than the presumption of someone equally sharing information about boosted applicaitons.

I am only going to say this one last time, cuz when I feel like I'm repeating myself over and over I am obviously wasting my time. I am not posting for my own entertainment but to clarify for future readers. Rhetorical question: Even if you were "only" running 8 PSI when the motor blew, was that not too much boost for the overall motor in its current state? Obviously the bad tune was not providing enough fuel, timing, etc, SOMETHING for the current boost level, and it caused problems. Of course you ran 13 lbs, safely, on a proper tune, some other time. It is only logical to say that 8PSI was too much for your current tune at this current time. That is a fact, no? I am not saying that 8PSI was too much for the motor, or your components, etc. I am saying that the boost level was improper for your current tune. Because you wouldnt have had any damage (disclaimer: generally speaking) if you didnt have any boost at all. You can have all the right injectors, internals, breathers, etc but if your tune is bad then when you cross a certain boost threshold, things fall apart cuz timing is off, fuel is off, etc. for that particular boost level. I know this is obvious but its worth saying: to run at a particular boost level you need to make sure your fuel, timing, etc can meet the needs of that boost level, whether it is 3 psi or 30 psi. If you truck was not under boost most likely you would still have the piston/motor. Sure, we can say overall "the tune" is to blame but controlling and knowing proper boost level I would say is the most critical part of the tune. Thats what the entire tune is for, boost. Thats the purpose, boost. The entire point of the tune is to meet the personal desire of boosting the vehicle. So how can you say boost did not cause the problem? I am really tired of getting misunderstood and mischaracterized by an overzealos community here so I will probably take a hiatus from this thread/site especially considering I got some leads in my thread and don't need to be here until I need to fix/modify something else on my truck. I know I know, "good riddance" you say. Regards.

Wow. Youre a ****ing loser bro. The 97 Vette was released in 96. I was *technically* off by one year on your chassis that I dont even care about. And youre going to nitpick me on all this little bullshit. Trust me I am not trying to compare my car to your car in any way except to show you that just how you think my Z is shitty I think your Z is shitty. Nothing more. The last thing I care to do is compare my car to Mr. Joe Dirt's Vette. I cant believe I am even arguing with some loser in a C5 Vette on the SSS forums who doesnt even own an SSS or VHO, and who made his big first post responding to me, cussing out me and my car. Bravo! I am just going to quit responding to your loser ass because you cant stop putting words and thoughts in my head and mouth that never existed. You can just pretend that your boosted C5 is faster than my car and leave it at that. I'm sure your ego needs it. Please stop responding to my posts, loser. To all other members I know it may seem fun to pile on just cuz I happened to mention that I own a TT import and this is a domestic forum but I assure you I am quite knowledgable in boosted applications and yes they are all fundamentally the same. Nothing changes that. I think a lot of communication can get misunderstood online do to the causal nature of the conversations and the fact that I dont have time to put every single instance, exception, clarification, and elaboration in every post I make.

Thanks for the reply. Wish you would have posted sooner! Probably could have saved me some money........ Sounds like its new O2 time. Thanks again for the lead.

I am NOT spreading misinformation. Did the OP not say he blew his motor cuz of the tune? The only way it happened is because of BOOST. He even said, a bad tune. Stock motors dont blow up. Most NA race motors dont even blow up when built correctly. Boosted motors WILL blow up under too much boost or low quality fuel, as well as other factors, regardless of build quality or magical PCMs, as demonstrated by this very thread! Which was my entire original point, "How much boost were you running when it blew" or whatever I originally asked, because obviously, IT WAS A FACTOR. BTW You would be happy to know that my weak 300zx you alluded to just took a shit on a supercharged LS7 C6 Vette within the last month. I dont care about your played out C5 Vette, and you dont care about my old shitty 300ZX. So why did you take it there in the first place? Your car is from the same year my car is from. They were both made in 96 and even had the same base HP. Look, I dont come here to make enemies and that was never my intent with this thread. I come hear to share information from my background and gain information from this site pertaining to my LQ9 truck which is my DD. Nothing more. If yall want to make a mountain out of a molehill, be my guest. I dont have the time.

You dont know anything about my character buddy. What I can tell from context clues is that you have some problem with PlastiDip, obviously from improper use and possibly a catastrophic failure of some kind? Do tell...

Apparently, according to Serb. Old cars besides his 12 year old Vette are shitty. Or maybe thats just imports. Yall keep in mind that I was courteous in this thread until yall started attacking me and now I really dont give a shit at this point. I am NOT the one making this any sort of import vs domestic low brow caveman flame war. Thats on yall, I assume to deflect criticism and attack me in other areas.

LOL I've used it before but it fades. Best to just buy replacement pieces.

Oh yeah? What imports did you tune? BTW the Yugo doesnt count. Lets hear some more about your 12 year old vette and how shitty it is cuz its from the 90s.

Let me break your points down ok? First I am not saying to put ONE, regular, old, "T28" on the truck. I am saying to put something like TWIN GTX2873s (or larger) on both exhaust banks. 3" in/out. Single or twin intercooled. Zero turbo lag and at least 200 extra horses. Next, I think we all know this PCM is NOT as sophisticated as you are giving it credit for. Funny you reference my POS jap car from the 90s while youre driving a C5 Vette. When did that body style debut again? 96? LOL. And not to mention a Silverado SS (also outdated). I accept that my LQ9 is my truck not some magical race vehicle to be put up on a pedistal. Anyone that really thinks their C5 Vette or SSS are greater than anything else is laughable. Its also laughable that you turn to google to quickly "research" a product (you obviously knew nothing about before) and thus declare victory over some little argument. The light is a tool that shows detonation, period. Often the XS sensor(s) are more sensetive than factory sensors and thus provide benefit over OEM sensors. But I'm sure your 5 minutes of googling have much more credibility than the hundreds of thousands of people (tuners) running the knock lite worldwide. My advice to YOU is, to sit back and realize you have a car from the 90s a truck barely from from the 00s and its now 2013 and you are still walking around like your shit doesnt stink. I was courteous in my original postings in this thread until others started to attack my knowledge of boosted applications which are all fundamentally the same, despite whatever orgasms you have over your 18 year old PCM and LS motor.

Honestly I dont care enough about you to read your signature. Anyone that thinks boost level is a mere afterthought on a BOOSTED TRUCK, is an idiot, who obviously has other people do his work for him (zippy). You can run whatever boost you want to all day on E85. And you still get the shitty efficiency and fuel mileage that goes along with E85 so thats your trade off. Congrats.

Thats too funny man. So yall are controlling your boost levels on the fly, just by how you feel that day huh? No wonder your trucks are blowing up. Might be time to invest in a $100 TurboXS Knocklite, no? Even if you cant hear detonation, it can still be occurring. Most likely you would never hear the detonation that is causing permanent damage cuz the trucks are so loud anyways. Boost is boost and if your boosted car/truck is not tuned according to boost levels then you are doing it wrong. Boost can be your best friend or your worst enemy. All it takes is one bad spike or one bad fuel setting and goodbye. Sounds like yall are doing a bunch of backwoods tuning and to be honest I dont have the time or throw away money to keep rebuilding a motor every year like yall apparently do. Why not get a professional tune, you know, done by a tuner, on a dyno, so you dont have to mess with your knobs everyday? What you dont understand is that even if your AFRs are allegedly "in spec" that your fuel map is not designed for when that turbo spools. You should really have custom fuel maps for each boost level you desire to run, low boost maps and high boost maps, etc. Tuning by the AFR is risky and doesnt account for all the necessary data throughout each RPM point in the power-band... I would love to hear more about this stock motor pushing 20 PSI, daily, because I know that even with the biggest injectors in the world, you need higher quality fuel to be running higher boost levels, period. So if you are running c16 on a daily basis thats fine. Like I said I would love to see it. Also if you are shredding belts go with a kevlar. I challenge any of you people here with a boosted truck to buy the TurboXS knocklite (for your own protection!) and tell me at what boost level that light starts going off. Im guessing you will see detonation at under 10PSI on pump gas.

Ok yall. Well last week I ran a few tests with diagnostic. First, there was no code for the MAF. Second, there were 2 codes for each bank running lean. "Bank 1 lean" "Bank 2 lean" or whatever. Which is odd because really it seems the truck is running very rich. I can smell the fuel that seems to be passing thru unspent. So I replaced my spark plugs, they were totally fouled, and that didnt fix the problem. Then yesterday I replaced my MAF thinking surely that would fix the problem even though it wasnt throwing a code. It didnt fix the problem. So now I am stuck wondering what part or parts could cause both banks to throw a lean condition code and also cause the misfiring that I am currently experiencing. I thought the MAF would be the culprit since its the one part that dictates to both banks but obviously that didnt fix anything. My last resort is either my coils or my O2 sensors but I have a hard time imagining the O2s causing the misfire. From my experience with bad O2s they cause a lean or rich condition but the car is still drivable overall with no mis fires. Just bogged down. This is a misfire issue. I think I just solved my problem by process of elimination which leads me to the coils. Since my truck is a little lower than normal I think some dirty water splashed onto my coil packs, (I can see the dirty dried up water droplets all over the coils). Have you guys ever had a problem with water splashing up into the engine bay and onto the coils requiring their cleaning or replacement? Would the water cause a short in the coils? I was under the impression that all the sensetive electronics in the coils were under the plates and required some work to access so it would be very hard for water to damage anything but of course any fluid can find a way into the smallest of openings so it is definitely a possibility. So it looks like I will be removing all my coils and spraying them down with CRC electronics cleaner at the very least. Should I take the time to do a proper diagnostic and check that the voltages are within tolerance on each spark plug coil? Do you guys have any other pointers for me in this process? Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any responses.

Ahh, interesting.... well I'm fixing to go buy some electronics cleaner and give it a whirl. How much is a new MAF just in case? Or would used be ok? Thanks again yall.

The MAF seems fine but maybe it could have some gutter water residue on it? I will definitely make a weekend project out of cleaning the MAF and all my connectors.

Do I clean the 3 little wires on the MAF directly or the MAF connector plug or what? Should I go ahead and clean all the connectors to my spark plugs as well? Also I did another test and it does misfire while sitting still but much less noticable cuz its not hanging out at those RPMs.... Is there a Throttle Position Sensor or throttle connector I can check? Anything wrong with drenching everything with electronics cleaner? Thanks for the responses.

Wanted to follow up: Seems like when sitting still I can rev it up and it revs fine thruout the powerband without misfiring. But once driving it misfires to the point where the truck is lurching sometimes. It really only happens from 1500 - 3500 RPM, the lower load RPMs, when cruising around in city traffic. Once on the highway it kind of irons itself out. Thanks again in advance

Hey yall, 2 nights ago we had a large rain and I had to drive my truck around in it, not that it matters (I thought) but during the drive the truck developed a nasty mis-fire and it is now burning thru gas like crazy. The rain left 2 days ago but the truck is still driving like shit. I thought I had a wet filter or something but I pulled it apart and it is dry. I have a TBSS intake with a cone filter in the stock location with no water or splash shield. Sometimes it drives fine, sometimes it has this misfire problem. Its enough for me to park it and drive my race car until it is fixed. I cant afford 3 MPG. Any idea on what I should check? The electrical connections on the intake look fine, and they never had a problem before. What do you guys think it is? Has this ever happened to yall? TIA

Maybe I can find the dyno slips. Not really a big deal to me if yall dont believe me. I did a direct TBSS intake swap as my wifes car is the TBSS.

I just wish Pacesetter would have made some sort of true dual option instead of this Y pipe cuz it can clearly fit thru the space over the frame cross member right behind the DS collector... Is there any kind of bolt up option for this? Last time I checked it sounded like a custom job.

Did anyone here run true duals off of their pacesetters? I too went with the Y pipe and cant help but think that if I tucked my DS pipe over that frame cross member that I would be home free for an X pipe and dumps under the bed. True duals with an X pipe is always better than a Y pipe because the X pipe evens out the off beat exhaust pulses and increases mid and top end power.

My results pretty much followed this: http://www.hotrod.co...es_small_block/ And yes I have the Dr. X adaptor harness. The only thing that changed is I went from my stock intake setup to my current intake setup and lost the same 10HP they lost in the article doing the same mod. I went from LQ9 to TBSS intake. Period.

LOL apparently you think I'm some sort of idiot just cuz you threw a turbo on your truck one time, lol. Unless youre running an MBC, the boost is the tune, and even with an MBC, the boost is still a part of the tune. Period. I dont know what planet you could possibly be living on where boost levels are not considered part of the engine tune. I wouldnt want to push it any more than 7 because knowing a motor is stout doesnt mean its can handle 9 PSI daily, obviously, when it wasnt designed with this intention. As far as putting T28s on the truck having zero lag is the point. T28 style/size are great for 400hp turbos on 3.0L applications and are perfect for 3" intake and 3" exhaust piping. I see nothing wrong with 2 T28's, intercooled, with dual 3" exhaust in a true twin turbo setup. I could care less for some huge snail to take 10 seconds to spool. I currently own my 4th twin turbo race car so I have plenty of knowledge and experience in pressurized applications.

Keep in mind my truck lost 10 HP/TQ when going to the TBSS intake. Something about the stock runner length is optimized for the truck application. I think a FAST por FAST replica is best bet... whats the cheap version of FAST intake? I forget