Tyson1972

Ok guys I have a problem I know y'all can help me with. I have had to bolts break off in my heads. One is on the driver side/left head and it's the one way in the back. Second is on the passenger side/right head and it's in the middle of the head. The one on the left side is broke off in the head about a 16th or 8th inch inside. The one on the right side is broke off outside of the head which is about 1/2 inch outside just enough to get a nut on it. My idea for the left side is drill a small hole in the bolt and use a 7/64 inch easy-out to extract it out. My idea for the one on the right is to weld the nut to the bolt and use a wrench to back that one out. What do y'all use for anti-seize? I DO NOT want to have to pull the heads. Is it possible if I can't get them out to leave them in and fix later when I do a cam & head swap? Thanks for the help in advance.

Upgrade the stock trans cooler with a 40K Trucool unit, this is a must for our trucks for towing.

No they are different engines. Read what I wrote or google them. They have the same STYLE block, heads & stroke. Other then that I don't know the difference in the heads, TB & cams. But I'm sure they have the same stamped heads and TB. As for the cams there probably is a difference. Like you said they do have a different compression ratio.

No the LM7/5.3L and the LQ9/6.0L motors are different. Both have cast iron blocks, aluminum heads & a the same stroke (3.622). The LM7 which is what they used in the article has a 3.780 bore, they have a 9.5-1 compression ratio & are rated at 295HP/335TQ. The LQ9 has a 4.000 bore, a 10.0-1 compression ratio & are rated at 345HP/380TQ. The LQ9 will make more power over the LM7 with Longtube headers and a more free flowing exhaust setup. Which is why I"m 100% that with a good sized header with at least a 1 3/4" primary & a 2.5/3" collecter that the LQ9 in our trucks would make around 10-15 RWHP.

Yes I know they made about 9.8 with the headers on a 5.3L but with our 6.0L 10-15HP with just the headers alone with it being tuned for them which is the key there. The truck has to be tuned for the headers if not you will not see as much HQ/TQ increase.

Well if you actually look at the chart it says with the headers, cats & exhaust it gained somewhere around 17.5HP & 17.1TQ at the rear tires on a 5.3L so with our trucks being a 6.0L it moves more air which makes more power so I would assume at least 12-15HP & 12-15TQ at the rear tires. Thats with the headers and a good cat back like the corsa or a custom dual setup.

Those arent bad but I would look on Craigslist for some used High Flow Cats. Kooks, Magnaflow, & many others can be found on there just do a search. Hey Micheal besides what you have mentioned what else is done to your truck?

I have noticed about 2mph advantage plus it looses some weight while doing so. I do know guys pull the right front headlight lens and that helps with more cleaner & cooler air into the CAI, but I havent done that myself. My next time at the track will be with as much weight off of the truck as possible.

I just bought a set of Kooks stainless steel headers bolts from Jegs for $10 w/free shipping. I have heard of alot of F-Body guys and some others on PerformanceTruck use them and they worked great for them.

As of right now all I have done is a K&N CAI, Taylor 409 plug wires, NGK TR55's, 2 1/2" true dual exhaust with dual flowbastard 40's (they were on it when I bought it), MAS screen removed, RPM of Garner NC tune & Texas Speed and Performance 1 7/8" F-Body LT's with Kooks High Flow cats sourced from a 2000 F-Body. Other then these mods it is completely stock. I have ran a best of 14.89@91MPH in the 1/4. Now mind you my weight is 350lbs, my truck is over 5250 pounds w/ everything in it (I mean jumper cable bag with tools, tow ropes, small air compressor, buster seat for my son, carseat for my daughter, spare tire, tailgate not removed, rumber bed mat, full tank of gas & countless other weight factors. I wanted to know what it would run in full street weight. I didn't change wheels and tire, I still run the stock style Goodyear tires. So with me driving it at the track it's weight is around if not over 5600lbs. I last ran the truck at the track on July, 19th 2013 GI.06SS (Steve) was there while I ran my truck. I couldnt get it to do better then a 2.21 60ft time no matter what I tried. I did trying dropping the tire pressure to around 17-20 PSI with no help at all in my 60ft. My third pass was different then all the other 10+ passes I made that night I had ran in the right lane all night and it was working great for me. I came out of the hole at around 800-900 RPM's and floored it off of a foot brake. It spun like crazy and I couldnt peddle it for anything. I tried to replacate that pass but it wouldnt do it after that, I really dont know what happened there on that pass. I do plan on building a L92 for the truck in the next year or two. From there I'm going to install a Porcharger onto the L92. The next mod will be to finish the 3" true dual exhaust with Pro Street 6000 Spintech mufflers all the way out back to keep down on the drone if not eliminating it. I'm also installing a 40K trucool trans cooler in the very near future. From there I will be having a 4L65 level 5-6 built w/ a 3200 stall triple disk converter.

Well I know our trucks don't have true 2.5" duals it's more like 2.75" piping (I have measured it). As far as cats I'm using Kooks High Flow cats sourced from a F-Body LS car which work great for me.

This thread was over 4 years ago bro, they are now located in Statesville, North Carolina and have been making Silverado Headers for some time now.

I look at it this way if your planning on future mods then the 1 7/8 headers are a no brainer if not then the 1 3/4 headers are more than enough. I have plans for my truck and I know the 1 7/8 headers will be needed. Im planning on a L92/LS3 6.2 replacement for my LQ9 6.0 when I have the extra $$$ to buy a good used one. Im going to do a very well built build, then adding a Procharger down the road. I AM NOT into doing something more than once. Im building mine for the future because my truck isnt going anywhere.

I ran the Pacesetter Coated 1 3/4" LT headers with used Kooks cats off of a F-Body. I had a friend weld them up with 3 bolt flanges on them (bad idea). The headers worked great and so did the cats. They problem was the flanges leaking around the gasket area, which I could never fix. I sold the headers and cats to a guy on here from Texas. I told him to cut off the flanges and just weld the cats to the back of the headers. He and I are 2WD so there isnt the problem with the front driveshaft. I just bought a new pair of Texas Speed & Performance's 1 7/8 Stainless F-Body headers because they fit fine on the 2WD trucks. They are around $600 shipped, but I dont know if they would work on the AWD trucks but its worth doing some research. $600 vs $1000-$1500 is a bargin.

JC is in Colorado and was asking $350 for everything from the cats all the way out back including mounting rubber & O2 sensors. I dont know what he was asking for the whole thing shipped though. Like it was said above he is over on Silverado SS's facebook page.

Correction they have a thicker frame yes, but NOT a taller frame. They have a factory BODY LIFT. I know this because my best friend has a 2006 2500 HD and I've seen them with my own eyes, his truck has not been lifted at all it's still factory in that aspect. It has a lot of performance stuff but no lift at all.

Wicked can you PM me a price on the CF radiator cover price also. Damn thing looks bitch on your truck!!!

I prefer Spin Tech Pro Street 6000 or Super Pro Street 9000 mufflers. They are a street muffler but they work awesome at the track. I have had the Super Pro Street 9000 3" mufflers on my 1980 Malibu street racecar and it only lost .2 in the 1/4 mile through 3" exhaust dumped before the axle. This was a 468 BBC w/250 shot of N2O. I will be running the Pro Street 6000 w/custom 3" pipes all the way out the back. My trucks on ramps right now in my driveway waiting on the TSP 1 7/8 F-Body Stainless headers I'm ordering next week.

The 2500/3500 trucks have a body lift from the factory because of the Allison is a taller transmission.

Nice truck with really low milage. Congrats and welcome to the forum!!!

For what the headers, cats & mid pipes have all been sold. All that's left is the two Flowmaster 40's and the dual tailpipes.

They were actually on a 2002 F-Body Camaro and the car was lowered 2 inches I believe. I have sold the headers, cats & mid pipes but the mufflers are true dual tailpipes are still for sale. As to your question about Headers scrapping the ground on your truck because it's lowered. You would have to be bagged and completely laying in the ground and I still don't think they would scrap. The driveline in our trucks sits so high on the chassis I don't see how that would happen.

SOLD

I know what a new set of headers costs, with that being said these are used and 1 year old. I live in the south so they don't see snow or salt. If someone is interested in new headers then buy them. These headers are not for you. These are for someone who wants to get a fair deal on a good set of headers. If your interested, cool pm me. If not, don't make comments about what something I own and am trying the sell. If your not interested just move on.

I don't think a $140 difference is close in price. Plus you have to either weld your own stuff up along with buying different cats or have a exhaust shop do it for you which is even more $. But to each their own, I'm going to wait and see if anyone else is interested. Considering $140 is more then 1/3 of the price of the new 1 3/4 headers which are $380. If you want the 1 7/8 headers they are $490.