porksoda

Yes I understand everything about the fuel rails and I know my options as I have both. My question was can I throw on the intake with TBSS fuel rails and drive fine or does it absolutely need a tune to run correctly? Because if it does need a tune just to drove I will modify my factory rails and call it done. I just think the factory look of TBSS rails looks better than welded on AN fittings on my SSS rail.

I just wanted to make sure it would run fine until I can afford another tune because I also have a 3200 stall to put in. I wasn't sure if the filter regulates to the same pressure as the factory regulator but if it will run fine after the swap I will just wait it out until I can afford the tune.

I've got a set of all 4 front headlights. I'll sale em for $80 shipped.

Obviously I know I need one to feel full on improvements. But my question lies in the regulator part of this. I have an 03 SSS and want to use the TBSS fuel rails with my stock injectors so I will need a Corvette fuel filter. Do I need a tune for it to run correctly this way until I can afford the tune or will it not run until I get it tuned? If I need to wait for a tune just to drive around I'll just use my factory rails with spacers and custom crossover tube.

Don't get me wrong because I know everyone drives different. One person may only run Mobil 1/Amsoil/Royal Purple and run the piss out of it and race all the time so maybe their light goes off at 3k compared to the conservative who drives Ms.Daisy and only runs Autozone brand oil but their light goes on at 5k. I truly am curious if these oils do as advertised hence why I asked for type of oil and filter. Guess I should of included driving habits as that would have a big play on the light coming on.

This is precisely why I made this thread. To see if person A that is paying $10 a quart for oil is less susceptible to any breakdown on the oil as Customer B that is paying $3 a quart. Obviously we all have seen the advertisements of oil that protect against this or that. So in theory the more expensive synthetic oil of a company should be less prone to engine wear and breakdown and should last longer according to the way the GM monitor tracks it correct?

I was just wanting to see if different oils made the monitor act any different. I usually never use synthetic in anything because to me oil is oil if you change it regularly. Like I said I am really wanting to see if the type of oil has any effect on the monitor or if they all last about 4k.

I am just curious about the intervals according to the oil life monitor on the dash. If you go by a general mileage or length of time I don't want to know. I am really wanting responses from the people that strictly go by the dash monitor just to see if different oil and filter combinations provide different intervals. Asking because I know oils all advertise their own mileage and the GM oil life monitor uses some equation with RPM and temperature to tell you the percentage of life left. Anyway here is mine 2003 SSS with bolt ons, cam, tune purolator classic filter with 5w30 valvoline maxlife oil 0% oil life comes on at about 4k miles

I have the exact setup plus a cam. I threw a Powerstick muffler in between the Y pipe and Corsa muffler. Straight through muffler with a true 3" flow path.

I've got a smoothed/primed TBSS intake, TBSS throttle body, and fuel rails I could sale. Was going to use it but ended up never throwing it on.

I installed a 3" powerstick in front of the Corsa. Sounds perfect with my longtubes and no cats. Plus it doesn't neck down as the powerstick has a true 3: flow path.

I love Sears Diehard Platinums!

How long were these used?

This will fit 99-07 GM trucks without the electric fan. Don't know what the difference is between electric vs non electric or if one fits the other but that's the description. I suppose I could try it on my SS and see if it fits with electric fans just for curiosity's sake.

Back to the top

Used but in good shape Banks cold air for sale. I also have original box and instructions if needed. I'll replace the one screw on top that is missing. $250 shipped

So for my own reference just to clear it all up. Correct me if I am wrong or feel free to add any vehicles I am missing. Rears-leave alone besides new pads and rotors to match whatever I put on the front Front-Any caliper, bracket, pad, and rotor combo from an 07+ GM truck or SUV Hydroboost and pedal-Any GM 2500 or 3500 truck, HD truck, or full size SUV

Quick question....the hydroboost and brake upgrade could be had off of any 07+ GM truck/SUV correct? Just so I know what to look for exactly.

So after tons of searching and reading, I think I understand what a lot of people are doing on the cheap. I do not want to spend thousands on a big brake kit so I have decided to go with the Tahoe upgrade in the front since I need pads and rotors anyway. Is anyone doing anything on the rear for an upgrade? From my reading I believe the rear is already a 13" rotor and I am not sure if the caliper is a single or dual piston? I plan on doing matching rotors and pads on the rear for application unless there is a cheap upgrade there also? Then later down the road I want to throw the hydroboost on. By doing some quick math it looks like I could have a hell of a braking system for around $500. That is unless there is anything better out there that I am missing. Any info or opinions would be awesome.

I've got a Banks 41800 I'd sale. I was actually going to post it today but haven't got pics yet.

Can you send me pics?

I'm not trying to cut in on anyones work but if you guys want emblems try emblem pro's. He has done badges for my SSS and my Trans Am and all have been perfect! He can pretty much make anything you want with any colors and they have inserts oe etching as an option as opposed to paint. Plus he is licensed to make the badges by GM. Just putting that info out there.

Is the plastic of the needle itself orange or does it have a layer of paint on it to make it orange?

How much for the gauge needles?

I'll get you pics of my stock ones if you are still interested.