detjoe

you ever see 'bring a trailer" they l;ove vintage race cars...if it had some 'history' it might be worth it

My Mom had a lift and it was great so she could still drive, that where I learned to use hand controls

I would guess that this would be considered 'overkill' for us...I am torn between a nice 408 (like Zippys Build) or FI (more suited for 6.0L and Bigger). Kind of a side note Shawn, but whats the last thing you did to the race car?? I was getting tired of the ups and downs of planning the next round of mods for the SSS and started to work on my other project more...allwoing me to get my hands dirty and still enjoy the SSS. It helps that my rat project is powered by a LQ9 so I am still able to get my LSx fix I wanted to make a pass yestersday...it was sunny and 36, dry...truck was super responsive with that cold air.

he will post up the details but right now he cannot. So lets not bust his balls yet

more pics and more details on the install pleasae...might have to drop my truck now

dude can I get an update too and I know of a few good trans guys local if you need some local help.

man that has alot of old names on there...

OC Autosports out of Anaheim Ca. 714-817-0000 talk to David or Odin. Please check that they are still in business...I did not check http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z06-discussion/2185399-opinions-wanted-centric-rotors-and-posi-quiet-pads-3.html theey talk about the rotors but you just need the pad set.

I will login over there and get the links...

the vette forums has a company out of cali that does the puckllets for like $100/set best price and they are not too dust like the hawks and not too expensive like theothers...I got two sets at the time b/c of how affordable they were. Got a year on them so far and so good.

I will see if I can get the pics off my phone, but they are of a motor plate that is in a race car. Epumps fail and if I wanted to run e85 I would be looking at multiples...Basically its driven at 60% of the crank speed, super relaible, rebuidable. If I bought two electric pumps I would be at a ver similar cost. A guy on tech mentioned he was running one on the top of a f-body bracket but did not have pics. Other guy mounted it in his ac compressor bracket. As for losses?? I dont know, I was reading an article about the gain/loses from an electric water pump and sure enought its not that big of a savings given you out more stress on the alternator. link for lstech thread http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/768709-belt-driven-fuel-pump-5.html there are some pics there too If/when I go turbo on the SSS I know I'll be shooting for 700hp (easy) and if I want to run e85 I will need a 1000hp fuel system?? I am hoping that if I plan to run e85 I can drive a little longer...but I will not be able to afford to upgrade my fuel system twice. I know our resident inventor(Supersub-Ray) might have some ideas on mounting this on a stockish acessory drive...

Just reading you have alot of the right parts execpt for the heads. I read alot about drilling the lifter trays and adding rear steam vents.

I dont know if anyone else here goes to the yellowbullet site but there is some good racing info there...Kurt from W2W posts there...and his stuff is cool, so I was talking with a guy who works with him and he was telling me about a mechanical fuel pump...and how good/simple and relaiable they are. And while the cost more than a electric pump they are better. So I get some pics and they are runnning the mechanical pump of a motor plate and a mandel off the balancer. My question is this: How could you run a mechanical pump off the OE acessory drive? My idea is a bracket that bolts near the alternator and has a small belt to run off the alternator or could I convet an idler to a cable drive pump? I am worried about going over to E85 and FI and not having the volume of fuel needed...

he has a nice build for a stroker that is worht checking out. it is in the build section.

sorry guys but this is cool for kids! My son had me make him some pipes when he was littler, I thought it was silly at first but all the kids wanted them! I am going to make my own...old water bottle, some hose clamps....

asking price please.

Bump this up to the top. required reading.

not exactly. its the heat that causes the pipe to break down, but his pipes are very thick and are not as bad as muffler pipe turbo kits.

Sup Oscar??? Hows the old truck running??

funny. you should start to figure it out, will make it a ton easier if something gives out.

p0036 heater circuit. p0054 heater resistance p0141 O2 sensor You might check for a lose connection between the PCM and the BCM, I can only guess that if either of those two dont get a signal the truck will not be happy. keep us posted.

and the OBX design is now the new dynatech design w/o the drivers side hump mess...I say get the complete set, can bolt to stock cat back or an after market one. I am runnning my OBX with the stock cat back four sound, the corsa sport was LOUD! I agree with brad and might add steam ports to the rear of the head. Will help with the 'honest' number 7 if your tuning is pusing it or not experenced or you are tuning WOT... been reaidn about some LS build failures that used stock parts and how #7 when heated can make the rings not happy. Kurt Urban posts on Yellowbullet and there are some other guys who have alot of experence with the LS motors...good reading.

I bet the changes are in Ray's build thread, he was running a 2300 on his truck.

very true. And there is more when you figure you need to fuel 1000hp...

just the head unit...maybe $1K, look at all the for guys with take off blowers. And I believe the lower on the new blowers allows for a bigger IC core. If you sold it as a complete-ish kit then you could get more toward the 2300.