someotherguy

And finally the LED DRL's. Generally I think you're not supposed to use them as DRL's but I think that assumes a lowered or pulsed voltage to the DRL socket, but I don't believe that is the case in this application. Some LED assemblies may not hold up to potential hours of continuous operation, too. These are fairly low power pieces though so I don't think they'll get too hot, but time will tell if they crap out or hold up. They were pretty cheap though so it's not a big concern. Richard

Since there's no cap over the end of the bulb, this design relies on the original halogen capsule having a black painted tip. I didn't want to use any of the "projector" type LED's that have forward-facing elements that would glare right in people's faces. I went with a side-mount like the ones DDM sells for $16/ea but found them on Amazon under a generic brand (NINEO) for $24/pair Truth is in an application like this they're more for looks than actually any useful light pattern on the road. I have noticed however they seem to be aimed higher than I'd like and I'm thinking about moving the metal bracket to under the plastic housing bracket instead of on top, try to get some more room in the adjustment. As they sit now you can't adjust down too far because the center of the housing is lower than the center of the brake duct, so you'd start cutting off a lot of the light. Richard

And now with some LED bulbs in the fogs to match the HID's a little better I picked up some simple LED's for the DRL's figured I'd put the relay back in for them but it was too dark for me to be sure I had them plugged in the right way, and my LED flashlight wouldn't fool the sensor on the dash...lol...little project for tomorrow. Richard

At this point in the game you'd have to be pretty lucky to find one that doesn't need some work. 10+ years ain't kind to bumpers especially plastic ones. Cover can still be had new from GM (if they're actually in stock) for around $350-$375 and sometimes plus a ridiculous amount of shipping depending on which dealer it comes from; some are fair and others are clearly padding their lower prices with insane shipping. Then of course gotta paint it. Upper and lower step pads add more expense too (about $300 for both.) Don't forget the correct smooth tag light housings (can be had from LMC cheap) and the spare tire access cover. As far as I know the brackets are not available new anywhere. You probably already know this but the actual metal bumper underneath the cover is just a regular Silverado bumper, can be found anywhere. I've got a cover that needs some work, also good upper/lower step pads...and I wanna say the small metal brackets from the corners maybe. Houston TX area. Have had some people try to buy it but they play too many games so it's just sitting in my storage unit. Richard

If they're 20's they will almost surely be lighter than your stock SS wheels. The ones on the wife's truck definitely are. 22's on the other hand...even Centerlines are pretty heavy; no way around it. Richard

If you google image search "centerline tomcat" there's a whole bunch of pics of them on Silverados/Sierras. They're not a bad looking wheel, just be sure they're not bent anywhere (check the edges closely) or show signs of repair from cracks. If they were run with low pros at any point in their life it's really easy to bend them; I've passed up a bunch of used Centerlines because of this. You might see a couple variations on the design as Centerline did that sometimes. Like I've got 22" Stingrays on my truck, and 20" Stingrays on the wife's truck...the triangle cutouts are way smaller on hers, though I've seen other sets of 20's in that design with larger cutouts that match my 22's. Richard

Thanks, pretty happy with it so far. Also considering Plasti-Dip to mask the lens as it would let me cover the sides of the lens way easier than vinyl. Figure I can mock 'em back in there and easily mask off the area to not coat and then get to it. Richard

Had a set of nice OEM housings and the switch from 1Fastbrick sitting around here forever; finally got around to doing mine today, used the bracket info given in this post -> http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/86458-how-to-install-your-fog-light-wiring-to-factory-switch/ - my truck being an '06 the factory wiring is already in place so I just needed to make brackets and add the parts. I used plain 1 x 1/8" steel flat bar to make the brackets. Thought about using aluminum and it probably would have been fine at that thickness, but I wanted to be sure they wouldn't flex at all. Used cutoff wheel to zip off some 5" sections then drilled the holes 1/4" with one end a little offset as shown in that thread, then cleaned up all the edges with the die grinder. Even with the 1/8" thickness I was able to attach them without issue using the studs poking up from the bumper cover brackets above the brake ducts. I used stainless fasteners since they sit right above the lens, didn't want moisture causing any rust to drip down on them. Mocking up the bracket using a piece of cardboard just to be sure First set made, checking the fit and operation Side view behind the brake duct, I think I want to cut out some vinyl to cover up the excess lens area and prevent light bleed-through around the duct Other set made, both lights in place and operating Popped 'em back apart to paint the brackets to prevent rust, now that I know they fit how I want them to Easy job...next up I'll order either some high power LED's or maybe HID's to go in them; probably go with LED as HID seem to be obnoxiously bright in this application. Richard

Cruising craigslist and saw this -> https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d/2004-chevy-silverado-vho-60/6757761266.html 2004 VHO for $5200, high miles at 220K but truck looks great for the miles, and unmolested. Says new trans (GM, not rebuilt), new heads, new radiator.. Richard

Arrival Blue was dropped for 2005 and replaced with Silver Birch Metallic. Richard

There's another member here but can't remember his name, he's got a red SS lifted. If I spot him I'll post back. Richard

LOL...that's Louisiana for ya baby! Richard

It's a complicated and boring story but in short, my regular truck was down over the weekend so I used a truck that is normally for a driver that works during the week. When I was done I had to drop it off where he usually picks it up, which meant towing my SS over there so I could go home afterwards. Richard

If you ordered 39-4175 and they sent you a regular Silverado grille, then they screwed up filling the order. According to a couple dealer parts sites, the GM part # for the 2003-2005 SS grille is 19168630 but you should call them up and be sure before laying out the bucks. The site says it comes primed, not painted. 1Fastbrick knows a million times more about SS stuff than I do though so the site may be wrong as they sometimes can be; however if I look up a grille for my 2006 which is different, they do show them in the different available colors and the 2006-2007 grille was the one he mentioned coming already painted.

Oh yeah, it's been a great truck for the last 20K I've owned it, just crossed 100K miles. Only times it's ever let me down was the previous battery crapped out and leaked down through the negative cable corroding it, and a few weeks ago the starter gave up. New AC Delco cable, new (not rebuilt) AC Delco starter, and a Odyssey AGM battery have things back in shape. I have to tow it every now and then and I hate doing it because I figure people see it going down the road like that and think it's broke down. ? Richard

The one in the second pic, ya. Nothing wrong with it...just had to drop the work truck off and head home. One of our trucks was down so we did some swapping around. Richard

Well these are things I wonder and worry about Mine can be towed that way since it's RWD...and the lights go up on the roof so any tiny scratches they might make aren't right there on the hood. Good lord my truck is filthy. But I drive it every day through a literal shitbath of dirt/dust/mud because there's a huge construction site right by where I work and there's no road I can go around on, so I gotta drive right through it. Richard

It's a scam ad. Been seeing them all over. Note the unreal low price and full address listed in the title. The vehicles vary but those two things are consistent give-aways Richard

Just barely caught this one being towed out from a Shell station at Lockwood and Navigation. Had to zoom in real fast and remember to turn the flash off, so it almost got away on me. Sure hope it was a RWD model, and also hope they didn't scratch the hood with the mickey mouse tow lights. Dunno...I've never tried towing an AWD SS with wheels on the ground so I don't know how they act but I would guess it's a bad thing. Tow lights belong on the roof. Didn't look wrecked and that's not the kind of truck anybody really does tow-aways or repos with, so it was either broke down...or driver went to jail possibly. Richard

Just an FYI you can spend $500+ just on emblems for the truck, and that's if you can find the slightly smaller one for the tailgate - took me a while. I replaced all 6 emblems when I had the bodywork/paintjob done on mine. And believe me, I hunted for the best price I could get, because I struggled with the idea of paying so much for emblems. I even considered leaving the "Intimidator" scripts off and just putting the SS emblems on. The price sounds a little high but the miles are relatively low. If the truck is really sharp, particularly the paint, then it may well be worth near that. Definitely negotiate down for needing tires and emblems; there's a couple grand out the door right off the bat. Richard

Welcome, I think we have more SS's in Texas than anywhere else has You can get a new reproduction grille for about $150 or less depending on where you look; LMC has it for $150 so you can bet somewhere else has the exact same grille cheaper. A real OEM one will run you about $375+ prices vary a lot depending on source. It lists for a hell of a lot more. Then of course you gotta pay to get it painted but shouldn't cost too much any decent shop; it's just basic GM black WA8555 not anything fancy or uncommon. Richard

I've seen that same statement and I think it's just poorly worded. 933 Intimidators made for 2006, and the remaining 100 sold as 2007 classics.. does not mean all 2007 SS are that same group of 100 trucks. Richard

I know this is an ancient post but still a current product, don't think I've seen his site linked here so after hunting it down it's https://www.atomicfabandperformance.com Richard

Uh.. replace that plug wire bro you're running a V7 right now. Richard

Try looking at the Walker 21576 - I'm not certain but this may be the OEM muffler. http://www.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/walker-exhaust-systems/e-catalog-lookup/21576 25" (28" overall) x 11.75" x 8.5", dual 3" inlets that are offset; single 3" outlet. About $160 through Rockauto. Once my wife gets home I could try climbing under our silver '06 and see if any of the OEM part numbers are visible. Her truck has the factory exhaust that was off my '06 Intimidator. Richard