someotherguy

You sure it wasn't a Chevy SS they kinda look the same Richard

Belt and tool came in today (a day late, got $7.98 refund for one-day shipping from Amazon) pretty easy install. The tool doesn't work, flat out. Either I'm a dummy, or there's a difference in crank pulley between my 2006 and the 2010-up trucks. The tool sits over the pulley lip like it should but can't get the bolt installed to hold it; just hits the edge of the pulley flange or the front cover. So I did the zip tie trick and just tied the belt to the crank pulley, guided it around the A/C pulley, then turned the crank bolt until the belt routed on. Anybody have insight on why that tool didn't fit? If I don't need it I'm gonna get rid of it but it would have been nice if it worked. Richard

I've done it myself to a number of them, but GMT400 headlights that were many years old. Wetsand, polish with a cloth wheel and Novus #2 plastic polish, clean them thoroughly, and spray a little clearcoat. Those lenses though were faceted, not plain clear, so any little flaws didn't stand out at all. The 03-07 Silvy lights being straight up clear you have to do a top notch job or any flaw is gonna stick out like a sore thumb. Richard

Yeah, I'm used to the clear failing on the headlights, but this one isn't even a year old yet. Almost literally a brand new GM headlight. Of course the seller denied my return request because "return period expired" although they are a GM dealer and the part has a 12 month warranty. I know I can call them direct and battle it out but honestly I'm getting tired of this shit. Why pay extra for OEM when it's the same Chinese garbage you'd get otherwise...these parts are made in China now just like the other stuff. Looked at my wife's SS which the previous owner also cashed up for real GM headlights and although they're a couple years old now, still not THAT old and they're flaking like crazy. WTF garbage Richard

Any decent electronics supply place if there's one near you, like Fry's. Sometimes guitar shops will have it, too. Or failing either of those, easy to find on Amazon. The DeOxit D5 is what you want; black/red label spray can 5 oz about $15. Richard

Wiring's right there on my 2006, they tend to wrap them up into the area above them a little bit but should be very easy to find. I'd squirt some DeOxit cleaner in there since the connections have been sitting exposed to the elements for so many years, or you're gonna have problems especially if you run the stock type halogen capsules that draw a lot of power. DeOxit is good to have around anyway, stuff is practically magic for electrical connections. Found mine wrapped around the bumper support bracket... I popped in an OEM foglight switch I got from another member and tested it; sockets are hot and ready to use. Richard

Yeah generally you wanna run the stock tire pressures because that's what it's suited for based on weight of the vehicle, carrying capacity, etc. Too low and it will ride mushy with bad handling, too high and it will ride rough as hell...and either way it will shorten tire life due to uneven wear. Richard

I just looked up the belt for a 2010 2500hd with the 6.0; compared to the belt for my truck it's a little bit shorter which makes sense without the tensioner. Hope it's the right one...Gates K040355SF Edit - more details: 2006 Silverado SS 6.0 A/C belt = Gates K040378 978mm / 38.5" 2010 Silvy 2500HD 6.0 A/C belt = Gates K040355SF 916mm / 36" Richard

Thanks, that's second time I've read that solution and it sounds pretty good. That's from the 2010-up application right? And, did you do this due to problems with the old setup? Richard

A/C was cooling great and no funny noises until this morning. Had a noise tough to describe, then a thunk as the A/C belt popped off. It didn't break, just came off. I'm thinking the tensioner may have crapped out, but I won't have any time to check it until maybe Tuesday; working anywhere from 12 to 14 hour shifts right now. Are the tensioners a sore spot? Seems like I recall reading something about them a while back but can't remember if it was all LS's, or just LS1's (used to have one swapped into a 'burb so I had done some reading), etc. Thanks, Richard

Wow; I forgot to update this topic with the outcome. That seller, OEM-GM did actually end up covering me on the warranty. I sent them the old headlight along with a copy of the invoice from the new one I bought (from another seller) and they submitted it back to GM, and did eventually issue me a check for what I paid for the replacement - so that was very cool. Now to the current news: the replacement headlight I got...in November just last year...is already turning to crap. Keep in mind this is a real GM headlight that I paid $136 for. The clearcoat is peeling; got a patch about the size of a quarter coming off, towards the lower inside corner. There's actually another patch a little over towards the middle but it's impossible to make it show up in the pic. Guess I get to try that warranty process out again, with another dealer. Richard

Yeah they do have a good look, IMO better than the ones that mix the styles of "open" LED's (brake function) with the "pyro tube" frosted line area for the bracket-shaped taillight function. I did like them on the truck but after a while I decided I'd switch back to my smoked OEM style. I'm even kind of considering getting a set of straight-up OEM lenses, but will continue running LED bulb replacements in them. Thanks Johnny! Enjoy them. Richard

Sold! Thanks, Richard

My '06 Intimidator SS has dual fans, OEM. I don't see any RPO codes in my breakdown that indicate that it's a special equipment option. I'm about 99% sure my wife's '06 SS also has them but it's not here for me to look at right now. Richard

*** SOLD *** Got these LED taillights that the running light function lights up in a bracket shape similar to the newer Tahoes, brake light the whole panel lights up. Very bright and work great, fit great too. No problems at all with them. Just went back to stock style lights on my truck. These are plug-and-play on any 2003-2006 fleetside, can also work on 1999-2002 if you use the 2003-2006 taillight harnesses. $100 located in NW Houston TX (Katy/Cypress area) Richard

Can't beat that return policy

There's a lot more grounds than just that one, I would highly recommend you go over all of them before throwing parts at it. To you, that code makes you think a part is bad. To me, adding yet another code to a growing list tells me you have ground problems. A little research will show you that people have thrown a lot of throttle bodies and pedals at this problem and not solved it. Richard

With all those codes I would suspect a flaky ground issue somewhere, I'm no expert on these trucks as I fortunately haven't had to mess with mine that much yet - but obviously those three circuits aren't just spontaneously bad all on their own. Multiple alleged failures you need to find the common thread and that's usually going to be a ground. Richard

I'm no engineer or stress failure analyst or anything of the kind... But it doesn't seem terribly coincidental that it failed where it did. Maybe it's a weakness inherent in the spot where it's cut down for what, a snap ring, or...? Richard

This is not a diss - just be sure keep your old coils stashed somewhere safe where you can find them easily. MSD does make some good stuff but some of their coil products do not have a good lifespan. If it starts acting up you'll want your known-good OEM coils handy to swap in. Richard p.s. oh yeah and that bulky unit on top of your engine those are known to be defective too and cause all kinds of problems. Send it to me for safe disposal and I've got a stock setup you can bolt on........

On the 06 I've got the factory brakes that I guess are a little bigger than the pre-05 trucks (as well as drum out back with the 9.5" 14 bolt) ... I was looking at mine just yesterday thinking about that Brembo big brake kit with the 16.1" rotors. The 22" Centerlines I've got have the valve stem inside the hoop, at near the center line of the wheel. If I go much larger in rotor, the wheel is going to fit fine, but the caliper is going to end up hitting the valve stem. Might be do-able if I go to a stubby-style stem or even use some bolt-in types that go in at an angle like you see on dually wheels. BTW I've noticed a lot of 22" wheels use a similar hoop design with the valve stem inside. For what it's worth, a 15"~15.5" rotor is about maximum you're going to fit inside most 20" wheels. Here's the Hellcat Brembo setup, 15.4" rotors and 6 piston calipers, on the front of my 300. The wheels are 20x9.5" OEM Hellcat as well. Plenty of wiggle room but no room to safely go bigger. (the original front brakes on this car are a 14.1" rotor and 4 piston caliper.) Richard

Just a joke...the listing says it's right hand drive. In the "item specifics" box. Richard

The OEM cover is still out there for around $275-$450 depending on source, but I have no idea what stock levels look like. Not showing as a discontinued part yet so that's promising. Reproduction cover is available from around $100-$200. I suppose in your situation the tough part is finding someone that will ship internationally in a way that doesn't cost a fortune. Also, you'd still need the brake ducts and grille mesh, not sure how much of that did or did not come with your Duraflex bumper. I'm guessing the Duraflex probably has the brake ducts molded in? The ducts, mesh, and brackets are all $$$$$ from GM and there's always the possibility of finding out some are no longer available, though so far -most- of the part #'s are still good. Richard

Specialized forum always gonna be slow compared to some places. But weather is also getting nice for many of us so ... less time inside I would assume! Richard

The cruise indicator is a regular bulb which maybe got overlooked when they were doing the LED swap. Surprised me while I had my cluster opened up for steppers & bulbs, all the other indicators are small surface-mount LED's from the factory except the cruise indicator and turn signals; regular incandescent bulbs like all the backlighting. Anyway, point is, easy and cheap fix. Richard