someotherguy

Yep! Well not necessarily stock, just closer to it. It actually had the Volant but I swapped it for the K&N after putting a stock setup on my wife's SS. Richard

bump...

bump...

What size alternator do you already have? 145A in my truck, original. 2006 being OEM e-fan equipped. Richard

It's tough to put anything other than the stock-type 9006 halogen capsule into the factory housing and expect it to make a usable light pattern. I will admit though that I do have DDM Tuning 35W HID's in my SS. They're...OK? Not great. I had some ballast failures in the past and spent a few bucks extra to "upgrade" to their better ballasts, and I still get intermittent failure-to-fire sometimes, and it swaps sides from time to time, so it's not like I can trace it down to one ballast or one capsule. LED's are tricky too because the same light pattern issues. Also, they're notoriously difficult to cool properly and the claimed outputs are generally -very- bogus. HOWEVER...if I was gonna spend money on some expensive LED headlight replacements, I'd check out Morimoto from the retrofit source. They seem to be the least amount of BS claims, and their 2Stroke 2.0 replacement for 9006 halogens are running $120 a pair right now, and carry a 3 year warranty. Pretty sure you'll be trimming your headlight brackets for any LED swap. Richard

Welcome, Not sure what to tell you on fair price but that's pretty low miles for a 2003! Well even for any year of Silverado SS at this point but especially a first year truck. If it's from your local area I'd inspect it VERY closely for rust although with 35K miles I seriously doubt it was driven in any bad weather. At any rate the hard lines for brakes and fuel tend to rust out very quickly on this generation of trucks if they're ever exposed to road salt or possibly even salt air (like from the coast) so check 'em as closely as possible. With those miles I'd say it's unlikely to have signs of problems of any kind. Some believe that low mile older vehicles are full of problems but I'm not one of those. One exception would be the tires; if it has ancient tires (check the date codes) then you'll want to replace them immediately - even if they're not dry rotted. If it does have any odd details, post back with your findings and others can offer advice. The truck is probably worth well upwards of $15K if it's clean. Richard

Under the hood, passenger side, rear of engine compartment. Look for the silver "bottle" (A/C accumulator) pictured in the original post. The drain outlet is underneath. Richard

Welcome...truck looks good despite the miles! Richard

K&N FIPK CAI currently on my 2006 Silverado SS 6.0, do not know what else it fits so please check before asking. SHOULD fit 2003-2006 6.0 engines and may fit earlier models too but I cannot guarantee it. Complete, includes all boots and clamps in great shape. Overall in great condition. MAF sensor not included, figure that is self-explanatory but since the pictures show the CAI installed on my truck I don't want anybody to misunderstand what is being offered. This K&N CAI sells for around $280-$300 new and the filter is lifetime washable/re-oilable so you can save $$$ and buy my setup instead. Price: $200, shipping not included, runs about $20-$25. If you're local to Cypress area and have the complete stock air filter setup FROM A 2006 SS - in good condition - and I mean complete including the metal tray that the box attaches to and all clamps, boots, filter, I will trade with $50 added cash from you. Important, must be from a 2006 SS, I want all the correct parts and the label on the filter box to match my truck. Thanks, Richard

Volant CAI came off 2006 Silverado SS 6.0, do not know what else it fits so please check before asking. SHOULD fit 2003-2006 6.0 engines and may fit earlier models too but I cannot guarantee it. This is the style with the duct from the bottom that draws in cold air through the tray underneath the air box, and you can add the optional ram air scoop (not included, you can buy it new for around $150) Needs a new filter, old one is included so you can match the size. Couple screws missing from the lid. Includes all boots and clamps in good shape. Overall not in perfect condition but less than half the price of a new one! Price: $150, shipping not included, runs about $20-$25. If you're local to Cypress area and have the complete stock air filter setup FROM A 2006 SS - in good condition - and I mean complete including the metal tray that the box attaches to and all clamps, boots, filter, I will trade straight across. Important, must be from a 2006 SS, I want all the correct parts and the label on the filter box to match my truck. Thanks, Richard

Been fighting it myself. I'll guess you probably already did the usual stuff like replace the gas cap, since the "tighten gas cap" error message is usually how this starts. Then you may have replaced the evap solenoid and filter assembly, maybe with the revised design that has the remote filter. I did that too. Still get the P0455 code after a while. Mine started doing the fuel burp / repeated shutoff of the gas pump while filling, but that eventually went away, dunno why...no rhyme or reason to it. It was very annoying for a while to fill the truck up. All that is left on my truck is replacing the evap / charcoal canister, or lifting the bed up to see if any of the related lines that run along the top of the tank got pinched or are broken or loose. I wish you luck, maybe someone else has some suggestions...sure would like to fix this on mine and get rid of the check engine light. Richard

Haven't done it as our trucks don't get rusty here in TX (unless you drive a Toyota) but the Silverado SS is the same exact body parts as a Silverado, just with the extra plastic pieces attached to the factory parts. So the cab corners and rocker patch panels you need are for a regular Silverado. Richard

Finally had 2 minutes to open the box and check out the parts. Absolutely as described; other than a tiny amount of storage dust this air intake is like factory new, including the filter element. Thanks for the easy transaction and nice parts! Richard

I'm in the Houston area, pm'ing now. Richard

Yep! She's got almost 87K on it now, so she drives it a lot. Only very minor hiccups here and there; overall it's been a fantastic truck. I'm creeping up on 112K on the Intimidator.. just did oil changes and other small maintenance on both trucks today. So you found another silver birch... do it!!! Richard

Rear bumper cover is an obsolete part, discontinued. A few dealers may still have one but only by pure chance. I've heard of a few old stock pieces still at a dealer or two.. There's also the issue of the related parts - top step pad, bottom step pad, spare tire winch tube cover, tag light lenses (they're smooth instead of regular textured plastic), and the little metal brackets that hold the corners of the cover on. Most of these parts have become tough to source, and expensive. Richard

1fastbrick answered you over on PT forums and I did too but no harm in duplicating the answer here in case it helps someone else, 3M VHB tape from the body/paint supply. Gray tape with the cherry red backing. It's super strong. And, use wax/grease remover prep spray on the panel first. Richard

There's some on ebay right now for $200 used but decent looking, check seller name: wreckcarsonlinecom they're parting out an SS. There's also some new ones on there for $250 from seller sae-auto who are known for carrying a lot of SS parts, though they're definitely getting tougher to find. Richard

Thanks - no video needed unless you just wanted others to see it. I've got switchbacks in my 300 and had them in other vehicles, too. What I'm curious about is what your normal engine running voltage is, measured at the battery terminals. I'm pretty sure what's screwing mine up in the SS is the slightly higher than expected voltage when running, as they're fine at plain 12V. It's been a while since I messed with them though as I had to remove them immediately due to the crazy strobe effect. Far as attention, well, this forum is a lot sleepier than years past. Niche audience and will thin out (short term, anyway) as these trucks get older. They're not brand new, and they're not "classic" yet, so they're in that awkward middle range for enthusiasts... Richard

Hey Tim, assuming you're in Houston (713?) You may already know the bumper metal that the cover goes on top of is just a stock Silverado bumper with the plastic trim omitted. I've got a decent top pad and smaller bottom pad, and I might have the corner brackets if I can find em. I need to pack up another top pad and send it to a member here as soon as I can go dig in my storage unit again, so I can check.. Someone posted a link to new OEM covers recently. These parts are getting tough to source so I'd get that cover first. If you're interested in the pads just shoot me a PM. Richard

Agreed, probably 22's, and they look like Raceline Speedster 6 although it's tough to tell from that pic Richard

They were probably just gonna grab your whole tailgate but got scared off. Look up what it would cost you to replace the tailgate, wing, lower cladding strip, emblems, and paint.. if you have the Intimidator wing it's a bunch more and nearly impossible to find the OEM one as well as the OEM tailgate Intimidator script (it's narrower/smaller than the door script just by a little.) I've got gate keeper protectors on both trucks because tailgates are a high theft item.. at least around Houston. Richard

Curious, which switchbacks are you using? I've got some from DDM in my 300 that work great, but when I tried the same ones in the truck, the running voltage was too high and would cause the white running light function of the switchback to start strobing like crazy after they'd been on a short while. They were fine with the engine off just at 12V battery voltage, but once the engine was running the voltage comes up...especially since these trucks' charging circuit is "smart" and the voltage can run kinda high, the switchbacks would go nuts. For now I've got older-style amber LED's for the turn signals, and white LED's for the DRL's - no switchback on the truck. I guess also if yours are working 100% even after the truck has been running a good long while, not only would the brand/part # of switchback be good to know, but also your actual system voltage measured with a voltmeter at the battery (not the dash gauge.) Thanks! Richard

So this past Tuesday my wife took me to the E.R. and so she parked the SS in the E.R. patient parking right against the building, a few spaces from the ambulance entry door. While we were in there getting tests run, some dirtbag tried to steal the truck. After security checked their cameras, they saw the guy bust out the passenger window, open the door, then got scared and ran down the row several cars and broke into/stole a VW Jetta. This was all broad daylight in a busy area. If he hadn't run off dunno if he would have been able to get past the alarm before someone caught him, but it sure is amazing to me that the dude was able to get away with any of this bullshit. Bright side is no real damage to the truck other than broken glass. Downside is I'm in the hospital and can't do anything about it until I get out, so I have her take the truck home and put it in the garage so it's safe, leave my 300 outside, and then she's driving my black SS instead. Couple days later here's the situation: Hit the boneyard (Williams Auto Salvage) for a used window at a great price ($32.48 with tax, paid for over the phone and they called when it was ready to pick up...) it's even got "OK" tint still on it, just a few scratches in the tint. I'll have it redone later but it's fine for now. Bit of a learning curve for me to put window glass in a GMT800; I can do it on a GMT400 practically in my sleep but these are a very different setup. A bunch of glass vacuumed up, some cuss words later, but no bleeding... All buttoned up with no "spare parts" leftover. Sucks but my wife definitely saw the silver lining...they didn't get the truck. Richard

I've got two upper pads in decent/decent-ish shape, and a damaged bumper cover.. Throw me a PM with your # and I'll send pics when I get home; I'm at work all night. Richard