someotherguy

It's no big deal to make a 3157 socket fit the DRL hole in the housing. I've got them in mine, tapped it over to the signal next to it and am running 4 amber LED's across the front, no DRL. It was so simple I honestly don't even remember having to hack the socket at all; I think it goes in just fine but isn't supported very well on one of the tabs. Richard

Thanks for the tips, they work like champs. Power folding, anyway. Still want to address the super-slow heating on the driver's side. Richard

I've found replacement glasses with all the functions including dimming, $160 and up. One brand does concern me a little as they mention the brand (GenTex) touting them as an OEM supplier - that's the glass already on the mirror and it sucks. (has part # starting with GNTX). I wouldn't suspect wires not plugged in or tab pulled off, as it does work, it just works significantly slower than the passenger side. Thanks for that explanation. I'd never known power fold was offered on this generation. I'll have to try it on mine and see if it's still got the factory mirrors then. Richard

RPO DL3 - says my mirrors are "remote control, electric, heated power folding, turn signal ind, lt sensitive, color elec heated o/s mir" Easy enough to say the "power folding" is a misstatement. Yeah the mirrors are power adjustable, but they don't fold unless you shove 'em yourself. These trucks never got power folding, right? lt sensitive = light sensitive meaning auto dimming? With all those options looks like a replacement glass is $160, haven't been searching very long yet. Just thinking I'd replace my driver's side glass as the heated part doesn't seem to work too well. While my passenger side mirror clears up almost immediately, the driver side takes forever. Works, just so slow it almost doesn't matter. Thanks, Richard

WTF...hate to hear that. It's happened to me too, years ago (my '92 Caddy clip longbed.) Got back a stripped, ****ed-up shell of a truck. Richard

Couple other tips on getting headlights to sit right in a GMT400...what I've done along the way. If they don't sit square in the grille, start by knocking the locator dowels off the backs of the brackets. Install the lights with the bolts barely finger-snug, so you can shove the light around as needed. You may need to slightly slot the holes in the brackets. Install the grille but you can leave it loose, just on there so you can see how the lights are sitting. Then you can tweak them around so they're square, then pull the grille carefully so you don't disturb the lights - then snug them down. You may also find that the adjuster screws don't line up with the holes in the core support, making it difficult to square the lights up as the screw will hang on the edge of the hole or push the light forward because it's against the core support instead of in the hole. A little die grinder action to open the hole up... Richard

Considering possible variances from one brand (or even one production run) from another, I'd stick with installing them whole instead of mixing parts. But it sounds like that's the ultimate conclusion you reached anyway due to the pins not coming out...which seems a little weird! Are you sure they just aren't being retained by some plastic casting flash or something? Richard

Why are you pulling pins on the new headlights to install? Put them in bracket and all. I've seen where some people think the aftermarket housings fit better on the GM brackets but each time I've tried, it was like trying to cram a square peg through a round hole. Now the downside of course is if you ever need to replace high beam bulbs, you're pulling the grille, as that's what the pins are for - to replace high beams by just pulling the housing away from the grille. Richard

Could definitely work something out; obviously anybody who needs them shipped I would sell them for less without the tires as it would just be too much to ship 'em whole. Gauging interest for now but these will definitely be up for sale when the truck comes out of paint. They're good wheels but not my taste at all. Richard

(replacing the old post with this) WHEELS ARE AVAILABLE NOW Wheels are located in Northwest Houston, TX $1000 Full details and pictures on craigslist ad: http://houston.craigslist.org/wto/5622047790.html You can reply through craigslist (preferred), or private message me here if interested. Thanks! Richard

...and a pager alarm. Richard

Pretty cool, but I've always been a sucker for Suburbans. My very first truck was a '63 Sub! I'd like it better with a stock hood but that's just me, I know others dig the scoops. Either way nice ride. Richard

Thanks! I built it myself out of a piece of poo, had it for around 8 years. In that pic it actually had around 225K miles on it but hardly a thing wrong as over the years I had replaced, rebuilt, modified, etc. anything you could imagine on it. Not too long after that pic, it got stolen and stripped. I rebuilt the recovered shell and sold it off because it made me sick to even look at it! Richard

2006 Intimidator ... 82990mi / 1803hr. Seems like a decent amount of highway mileage, just guessing off the top of my head. Richard

Thanks; got that sucker on the way now. Richard

If you soldered all the wires back together correctly and things still aren't working, I can only really imagine 2 possibilities. 1, you hit other wires and just didn't see them yet. Or 2, the wires that you did fix, are also broken internally elsewhere, probably near where they broke apart. Check 'em at their opposing ends for continuity. Richard

Thanks for clearing that up. I was looking at mine (black) and noticed it was the textured bezel, and wondered if it had been replaced at some point in the past. You're right, it does look like crap. Think I'll have the body man smooth the handle out and paint while he's doing the rest of the truck. Got a part # handy for the smooth bezel? Richard

Talk about washing and waxing in shifts: try a loooooooooong bed: But man, that Cadillac White Diamond sure looked great sparkling clean. Richard

Oh, and a horrible pic. Truck filthy dirty, we're in the middle of severe weather and pollen blast. And it's still wrecked on the passenger bed corner. But here it is: Richard

I got the small plugs to fit, they were a little tight, and I'm guessing they are meant to complete the circuit so the truck doesn't sense any bulbs out - because I'll tell you this, there's nothing keeping you from getting the polarity wrong on 'em - and I'm thinking I did, because now my cruise doesn't work. Big surprise right? Cruise worked fine before when I had the OEM style tails loaded with LED bulbs, including the small corner bulbs. Now it doesn't with the new LED tails. So I got some homework to do... Richard

Yep, seen that price for about a dozen SS's across the country. Flag it and move on Richard

Got mine in yesterday and just installed; definitely liking the change. I also ordered the LED cargo/CHMSL from them and it's a nice match to the look. My old one was pretty funky anyhow. The smooth profile design vs. the OEM googly-eye look, seems more to me like not just the 99-02 trucks but also the 88-98 body style which are some of my favorite GM trucks ever. Here's a question though. I've got them functioning same as yours - bracket is the tail, full board is the brake/signal. But the small connector that was the 194 bulb marker light in the OEM lenses, doesn't seem to do anything at all when hooked up. Tried reversing polarity, nothing. I half-expected some small marker LED's on the side since that's actually a federal motor vehicle safety standard since.. oh, 1968. But...I guess there's nothing in there but the reflector? Richard

The expensive Raceline wheels are the billet ones, not cast like the wheel shown at the top of this post. IMO kind of hard to put much value in the name when you're looking at a cast wheel, though some are definitely better quality than others. Those Raceline cast wheels are made in China, while Boss wheels for example tend to be U.S.-made though the center caps are usually imported. The 22" Maxim 6 posted is still a pretty good deal at $699 especially with the free shipping. That wheel is normally around $250/ea most places you find it. Richard

I stressed over it far more than the subject deserved. When it came down to it, knowing I'm getting closer to the truck going in for body/paint, I said F it and bought all the emblems. Even at the cheapest place I could find them, I've got nearly $740 in the scripts and SS's. I know the old SS emblems probably could be re-used, but after throwing a top quality paint job on the truck I don't see any sense in cheaping out re-using the old emblems. Oh, well. By the time it's finished, it'll be the sharpest salvage title ISS out there. Richard

I'm thinking with AWD you'll like them more than I do on RWD. They're a good tire suited for a heavy vehicle but like I said before I can roast them with ease. Richard