supraman

No built trannies hear? Have many of you had success with the stock clutches FI'd?

I dont think I will take any more chances with teh stock TC.....now just hope I have a minor adjustment somtwhere and have not incurred any more damage....looking through e700r4.com/ it looks like there were several little, but important things that could have/should have been put in that werent in the last build: 1. oversized 3-4 relay and 4-3 sequence valve kits 2. 4L65E oversize .490" pressure boost valve ( have this but its 70k mile old) 3. new AFL valve 4. PWM Power-Valve 5. new 1-2 accumulator spring 6. 4L65E Pinless accumulator piston 7. 4L60E high output pump slide spring 8. 3 accum piston not blocked off

Mr P, On the dyno the other day my tuner said we could put 5more whp down to break the 500 mark by locking the converter up...He "TRIED" with Hp tuners to lock, but abruptly got off it at about 4k saying it did not lock??? It was as if he noticed something not looking or feelong good and quickly shutting it down. Before we did this he asked me if I really wanted to try this, apparently this is not good on a stock converter...??... BTW my baseline this time was 10rwhp lower than last time and probably due to the new 22inch chrome rims insteadof stock 20s, also this dyno reads 10% lower than all other dynos around here. I am going to the superflow dyno tommorow to get an accurate reading with graph and stock wheels. I am confident that I am putting over 500whp now : ) results tommorow.

what are the best clutches out thwere? I am dtermined to make this 65 hold my power damnit

I have the Red Eagle clutches and 'full thickness" Kolene steels right now. And not really sure that this is the prob, but copuld be. My tranny builer is coming by tommorrow to chekc and see if 'maybe" the 4th gear super servo's pin is out of adjustment. It is acting like it was after my latest build ~1 month ago(not holding 4th under load and very mushy 3-4 shift)....so we put in a new 4th servo pin...fixed the problem until now now approx 1 month later doing it again/??? The only thing that may be different this time interms of symptoms is I dion't remember the 2-3 getting mushy...does that have anyting to do with the 4th gera servo? My tuner has my shiting set up way different than bryan at pcmforless used to have it...(it is set up to shift into fourth under normal driving/cruising very soon instead of the "old" 50-60 mph shift under normal driving. I now find myself lugging around all the time in 4th when previoulsy in would have been in a loower gear...I am sure this has added to the stress load on that servo anmd plan to get this changed immediately even if it "cuts down on mileage" And yes Zippy I had very good success with the stock clutches too...they held for 50k miles......I endedn up grenading all the HARD parts, with never any clutch slip. And to be honest the zpak held for a while and the only reason I think it failed is becjuse I drove aournd on a bad 2-4 band for a cuople of weeks, thus putting a lot of extra stress on everything else and buring it up in the process, including melting all the little rubber seals aroudn the servo.

What do you have and/or prefer. What has proven to be the best? 1. Red Eagle 3-4 clutch pack OR 2. Raysbestos Z-pak I burned the zpack up before the latest rebuild (current) and now run the red eagle clutches because I was told they were better, but now feel I have another 3-4 problem after making several dyno pulls in third gear Saturday. the 3-4 is very mushy and 3 feels like it want to lock and unlock the TC when pulling hard????? Getting sick and tired of this tranny crap.

That makes me want to cry Kevin. Haven't you ever heard, "if it aint broke don't fix it?" Oh well, conrats anyway

7.5 and 7.625 GM 10 Bolt

will try to get pics to all pms tommorow

4 - 20" Silverado SS rims and tires off my 03 silv ss about 50%-60% tread left on GY Eagle LS2s, wheels in very good shape, very minor curb rash on a couple. When cleaned up they look new from 10 ft back. pm if intersted in pics or buying local pick up or ship $650+ ship OBO

I just bought 4 22inch chrome...there is a tire/wheel place in cincinatti thta gets them in every once in a while. They buy the displays from shops all over the country and are getting a couple in here and there every couple of weeks now that the wheel is disc. I can't remember the name...just do a search on ebay for AR RT-s rims and they are usually at the top. Last I checked they had 3 black 22's

dead on bro, did not think of that....makes total sense.

How do these 03, 04 cobras with the Eaton 112(same as what most us have) run 13-14 psi and 25 degrees timing and consistently make 500+ whp on a little 4.6 without methanol?? I haven't seen many, if any of us with the 6.0 accomplish this feat considering ALL those factors. Its obvious they are going to make more boost because of the smaller displacement, but come on ...25* + timing, no methanol and some up to 15 psi??!!!!

Yeah I believe those mustangs have the same eaton 112 as we do. I have always heard about them "porting the blower" and getting gobs more power. I have a friend who has an 03 Cobra that has a ported blower that makes 570whp with the factory 112 on that little ass 4.6. I believe it is the equivalent to us buying a bigger J-tube (them porting) but they still get crazy power....its gotta be the extra timing that they can afford to add that we cant with the higher comp.

Cool bro, no problem

Damn good deal TTT for ya Wish I would have know this last week, I would have taken it.

WTB American Racing RT-S 22 inch rims chrome or black for my 2003 Silverado TIA EDIT: got em!

Yeah there is NO stress on the front differential...there is nothing attached to it! It is NOT moving unless you are driving. How can YOU not understand THAT? As far as the Trans Case, I am going on experience and the history of 5 yrs and many different GM vehicles doing this without problems. Hell it might not be the best for it, but slamming throught the gears in a near 500 RWHP, AWD, 6000lb truck [with my 275lb ass in it (10% bf btw )] everyday isn't the best on a drivetrain either, but I and a lot of others do it. (think about that one smarty pants ) Buddy I have no problem understanding anything, you might want to go back and re-read, the awhp - rwhp thing was more less a miscommunication. I had origionally listed rwhp then thought "well the truck is AWD" not even thinking about the mechanics of the whole thing. Then everything com[pletely got blwon out of proportion and looked to far into I think personally. Not to mention not one single post related to actual question/post. btw: coincidence And yes I have been here since 03, look to the left...that's this way (<) I knew some troll smartass would show up...head on back over to the honda forum and strart a cat fight there,

I have been here since 03 when the first ones were doing this and no probems in 5 years directly related to dynoin...you have to be DRIVING to cause damage. Ask Bryan at PCMforless how many Escalades and SSs he has dynoed since 02-03 and all the miles that have been racked up on the vehicles with no problems....none...know why? you guessed it they don't DRIVE them with the shaft pulled

Key word/statement: "Do not: Drive without one propshaft"

sorry bro someone got to it before you its gone.

Its the oil type and cone just like K&n and yes I still have it.

sale pending on pulley.

I have no PM from you and yes I still have the pulley and can throw in a belt for free