lucky7_93021

Alan, Sweet.. thanks!

hey chase.. i was going to call them tomorrow and try to make an appt for the 13th. have you gone yet?

alrighty, sounds good. and just for final clarification... if I'm tuned for a 160 stat but running a stock one... how will that effect performance/mpg?

I'm assuming the stock stat and housinig are one piece... but it never hurts to ask. I'm looking for the housing alone to put an 04 stat into an 03 pump.

I searched all day and could not find the answer to this. I have an 04 but when I went to change out the stat it's all one piece like the 03's. I guess the easiest way to fix this would be to order a 1 piece but since I already have the seperate stat can I just order the empty 04 housing from GM? Would that be cost effective and does anyone have the part number for the housing alone? Thanks!

I called yesterday and left a message also. Still no call but they said it could take a day. As of this morning after a 50 mile drive I noticed some white smoke when I parked. Seems it's coming from the pass side fan... not sure if it's at the radiator or the fan motor. What I am sure of is the fans are not spinning anymore. Now I'm having the same issue where they only turn on with the AC.

Yeah it's SUPER annoying. I went to a lot of trouble making sure I did everything I could for them to not leak in the future... and they leak now. If I get the bolts out and make some space between the header and the head.... is there anything I can do to seal it? Like high temp gasket maker or something?

Yeah it was the heads of the bolts I stripped a little. I think I could still get them out and I think I'll just use the stock bolts when I do. The leak is small and coming from the 1st cylinder on the drivers side at the flange. Like you said Chase it's just super annoying. Other than annoying is there any loss of power or harm being done because of the leak?

Greeeeat I guess I'll look into the underdrive pulleys. Thanks for the info!

I am using the copper gaskets, I thought that would stop this exact problem. It is a good thing it's the #1 because those back bolts are impossible to get to. What is helicoil? I've never heard of that... I have to get a stelthascope and see exactly where it's leaking from. Do I have to remove the header to helicoil the bolt and how much power and I loosing with the lose of compression through that leak do you think?

So as of last week I installed the TT2600 converter, cam, e-fans, tranny cooler, TOG headers and changed all the push rods and valve springs too. I had the headers welded in this morning. Man was it loud driving across town like that. Anyhow the coating on the headers made it hard for the muffler guy to marry the collectors to the headers, the gasket wouldnt seat right and so he had to grind everything down. Now it sounds amazing.... but: The driver side header at the first cylinder is leaking! I tried taking it home and re-torquing the bolts again after it had been hot... but that didn't help, in fact I may have kinda sorta stripped the heads on those damn breslin bolts... so getting them out "may" be possible with some channel locks and luck but I'm not trying to get them any tighter. They are already torqued to 30 ft pound which is more than stock. It's not leaking badly but can anyone tell me what that's going to do to performance and what I should do to fix it? I'm thinking of just bringing it to a shop. Everything else is more or less great. The engine was running SUPER rich for a bit but I think it got learned out after about 20 miles or so. I had a few check engine lights, 02 sensors from when the headers were going on and then codes for rich and lean banks. They have all seemed to subside for now. I'm gonna have to give it a hundred or so miles before I really worry. I took her for a nice long drive and wow can you tell. Such a difference. I can't wait for everything to even out. When I got home there was some smoke coming out and it smelled like burning oil. I'm hoping it was just things I had touched still burning... but I had the engine cleaned today so it could just be from that too. I'll have to wait and see. If anyone has advice on the header issue I'd love to hear it. Cheers

That I have no answer for. I went out and looked again but I only have the one blue on the nelson harness. There are 2 harnesses from Nelson though, one for the 05 gm fans and one for the flex a lite ones. I'd call and make sure you have the right one.

yeah that's what I thought.... looks like I have something else to save for. hope it will last a few months.

I didnt have 2 blue wires. There were 2 red that go to the positive battery connection, 2 blacks for the ground, a blue for pin 42 and a green that splices into the wire bundle. I put it on the dark green and once the engine temp got up there both fans came on but I never turned on the AC and even if I did the headers are not welded in yet so there is no way I could hear them switch to high over the noise. As for activating pin 42, I have a custom tune from Nelson Performance and they included pin 42 when I had them tune my pcm for the new cam. I'm pretty sure the only way to turn it on is with a custom tune or if you have like an hp tuner program you can do it yourself. The hand held programmers won't do it.

I just swapped the cam the other day and tried both methods, the dowels and the magnets. I got 3/8" wooden dowels and couldnt get them to fit not matter what I did. So, I used the magnets and although it cost $40 for them, they worked GREAT! You can push the lifter down then rotate the cam around so you know for sure it's up when you lock off the magnet handle. Also, once you get them all in you can spin the cam and make sure it's not touching any of the lifters by watching the magnets. If I had to do it again, I'd use the magnet method again... but of course, I can't speak for the dowel way of doing things. Seems like that would have been pretty easy if I had gotten them in too.

I took a small chip off the inside rim of the crank pulley while taking it off for a cam change... it's really small but do you think it will screw anything up?

I just installed mine this morning. same thing, 05 fans with the nelson harness. if you're using pin 42 on the pcm you do have to have it programmed since it's not set from the factory to turn them on using that connection. out of curiosity, for the green wire you tapped... which one did you tap? the instructions say it is either the dark green, light green or the green with a white stripe. I used the dark green but haven't gotten to engage the AC clutch yet to see if it switches the fans to high speed since I'm down for a cam swap.

Ohhh now I read this! I put it on yesterday and it was no where near as bad as I thought. I did have the longer bolt and WOW did that help! I couldn't have gotten that thing off or back on without it. As for getting it tight, I got a really nice 28" breaker bar for like $10 at harbor freight during a x-mas sale and that took care of that. The only thing I wouldn't recommend from harbor freight is there pulley puller. I broke 2 of them trying to get the pulley off before I broke down and payed $40 for the one at sears. No wonder harbor freights only cost $7.

I just put my fans in last night but I took the fan off while the water pump was off for the cam install. I had to get a strap wrench to hold the black pulley and used a large monkey wrench to turn the nut counter clockwise. I hit it once with a hammer and it came loose pretty quick but I had sprayed it with oil the night before. Good luck! On a side note, what harness are you using? I installed the 05' GM fans with the nelson harness and it was great! The only thing I'm not sure of is which green wire to tap. The instructions say there are 3 different green wires... dark, light and one with a stripe and that they could all be the one. I used the dark one and will have to wait for tomorrow to see if it works when I get the truck running.

it's all good, im not sure what happened but i got it out. i just spun the cam back and forth a million times and for some reason one of them worked.... wish i new why.. but its out so who cares. on another good note, i got the cam in and all the springs changed out. the springs were easier than i though. now to get the crank pulley back on, this should be fun.

Ok, I have almost everything done on the cam swap, im using the pen mag trick to hold up the lifters while i pull the cam out. I put them all in and while checking to make sure the lifter was all the way up I noticed one of the mags wont come out... it's stuck in there and although i think the lifter is up the cam wont spin all the way around, it's hitting something where what mag is. I can imagine already this is bad and I dont want to yank to hard on the mag and break it off in there. What do I do???? Thanks for the help!!!!

Ok at this point i have broken 2 cheap 4" pullers on the damn crank shaft pulley. I guess that's why the good ones dont cost 6 dollars. Hopefully ones from sears will get the pulley off and one of my problems will go away. What I need help with now is the headers. I'm installing TOG headers and already have both manifolds off the engine block. The drivers side cat and pipe seem ok to get out but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the pass side cat and pipe out without either cutting it or taking down the whole exhaust. Is there a way to get this done? Also when the manifolds are off before I install the headers I can still put an air fitting on the spark plug hole and compress the cylinder to change the springs right? As for the water pump. There are 2 problems there. I thought on 04 SSS the thermostat was separate from the housing? I pulled the housing off and it seems like one piece so now I may be boned for doing the 160 unless I can find one for an older model water pump near by. The second issue it's giving me is the clutch fan on front of the pump. Should I have take that off before I removed the water pump? If not, or if it doesn't matter... how the heck do I get it off? I tried chases method of hitting it with a hammer and a giant wrench but that didn't work.. there isn't anything to grip. Please tell me I should press on and not just turn around while I still can. I could use the support on this one today.

i believe it is left hand... there is a huge nut on there so the large wrench sounds like what I'll try... do i take off just the fan or that round metal thing in front of it too...?? what ends up being left on the water pump after your done? as for the pen magnets... i got a couple different dowels, 3/8 and 5/16 so im hoping that method works. thanks for all the tips everyone.. now if i could just get the pulley off! i went and got a puller set that has 3", 6" and 8" pullers... so one of those should work! cheers!

hi guys, 3 questions i pray you have answers for since im mid cam swap and can't find reference for this. 1) how do i remove the clutch fan from the water pump assembly? 2) what size pulley puller should i use for this stupid clutch pulley? i was trying a 6" and it's either to big or to small... 3) the only thing left in front of the engine is the air conditioning condenser. i removed the radiator and the tranny cool (i of course broke it trying to figure out the connections... no worries though, im upgrading). do I have to remove this for the cam install or will the cam slide in in front of it? if i have to remove it will i have to refill it? oh and as a bonus, the ls1 instructions tell me to drop the starter off the back of the motor before I remove the big ol' bolt... is there a reason for this? i mean, i did it but just cant figure out why? thanks for any help you guys can give! im of course taking lot's of pictures and keeping track of what im doing so ill do a big write up later. im also putting on headers and an e-fan assembly. cheers!

I'm in... Let me know when you need the info