highvoltamps

Thanks Paul, you the man.

Hey Paulguy, got one for ya. Looking to get a new bypass module, which is the latest? My current alarm doesn't unlock the doors, I have to use the factory remote. Found the 457GW was the discontinued model, is there a better one?

I just put on Yokohama Parada Spec-X on black Helo 866 rims. Very good handling tire, especially in the rain. Got them shipped for $700.

Why, are the factory studs not good quality?

New pads are on and bedded them in this morning. No noise so far but I don't like how the bed in wear is on the rotor. About 3/4 of the rotor width transferred the brake material and the bottom 1/4 still looks the same. I'm going to try to bed in one more time tomorrow and see what happens. I didn't resurface the rotors b/c they are only a month old. I used a sanding block with 120 grit to take off the old transfer material.

Yeah, your right. Thanks. I found one persons says to hit the stud with a mattle and another used a press. Then suck it on with some washers and the nut. Sounds easy enough.

Had to rebuild my front diff at 43,000 miles, the bearings were shot but the gears were still good. Had the same annoying howl/whining noise front the front end. I'd get those bearings replaced before you do damage to the gears. The bearing kit cost me $200 and I changed the vent connector to the 2004 and up style so I could run synthetic gear oil. The shop labor was $650 and done in one day.

One on the studs is stripped on the rear wheel hub. I'm going to try to fix it with a 14mm x 1.5 die but don't think it's going to work, the stud is really chewed up. Has anyone had this problem and what did you do? Is there any kind of repair kit to replace the stud? I was thinking if the 14mm doesn't work, then try to tap to the next smaller size. Thanks for any help.

I have a 350 amp ceramic anl fuse and my alternator is rated at 350 amp, 140 amp at idle. I know I will never come close to drawing that continuously but just in case of a surge that will bump me over the 250. My aux battery spot is filled with the Volant CAI with the ram air ducted to the bottom grill. The battery is a Kinetik HC2400 and I don't think it would have fit there anyway. The Xtant amps are each fused at 125 amp. The sub amp will be pushing some amps and the 4 channel I'm running at 4 ohm for one set of components and the rear door speakers. Should be half of what the sub amp is putting out. When using the inverter at full capacity and the system cranked, should be close to 225 amps with spikes exceeding 250. Don't see myself doing this a lot but if I want to, I can without blowing the main fuse.

Yeah that's a good point, using the battery as a buffer. The inverter I have can peak at 2000W and its rated input is 100 amps at full capacity. A 175 amp fuse is recommended and input power terminals are 1/0. What do you think my 1/0 should be fused at from the alternator to the battery at about 12 feet. I've found charts that say 250 amp and others at 350.

Cool, I've been an union electrician for that past 15 years and installing since the early 90's. I just got done cutting up aluminum for the control panel and head unit/ EQ face. The control panel is filled with the inverter control, GFI receptacle, Varad lighting remote, Cobalt ammeter, Stinger voltmeter and a plasmglow touch switch(not sure what I going to use it for yet). It is hinged to the console bucket for access to the storage. In the storage compartment is the keyed valet switch and inside the void of the center console will be all of the alarm components. Thanks, I'll keep the pics coming at photobucket.com/highvoltamps I have the Directed Automate installed now and upgrading to the Scytek VG8000 and might need your help. I'm not an alarm expert but have the electrical knowledge to figure it out. Hoping it's wire for wire to the new alarm and a lit bit of wiring for the window roll up/down, heated seat turn on and my high frequency loadspeakers which can easily be done with a relay from the siren output. Also what do you think about running the inverter directly from the alternator or tapped off of the battery to system feed? I've be debating what I should do here, I ran 1/0 wire to the battery which should be fused at 250 amps. My alternator is a custom built Nations rated at 350 amps, 140 amps @ idle. I should have ran 4/0 to the battery and tapped from there. Not planning on using the inverter while I'm not driving, so I think the direct wire from the the alternator will work with less interference with the other equipment hooked up. Just thought what I'm going to use the touch switch on the control panel for, a transfer solenoid switch from the car battery to the system battery in case of a dead battery.

Why are the NGK TR55IX with a .060 gap preferred by most for the SS? The TR5IX are gapped at .040 which matches stock..

Running 91 octane always, recently changed the fuel filter about 6 months ago, didn't apply dielectric to the wires and have not clean the MAF senor yet (that was my next step). Is the dielectric grease really that important?

Nice McMahan, I like the SS in the backround of the screen. Is your screen name you last name? Mine is McMahon. Never seen it with the "an".

Right on, I should be able to get the job done with two. How long have you been installing? You definitely know your shit. I've been since I was a teenager then became an electrician and still rockin out. This project is going to be my best, well thought out and a lot of customizing.

How did your JL's hit, did you ever db meter it? I'm looked forward to getting mine in, gonna be dynamat and ensoliting over the weekend.

Just talked to Accel and they are the right wires, he said they just came out and the box say 1999-2006 GM truck 4.8/5.3/6.0L LS base engines. So I'm back to the spark plugs.. The truck is not running bad but just doesn't have the kick it use to when I'm on it. Does anyone know if this is b/c of the larger gap?

Go with the 1000W Xtant X1001, very underated. That's what I'm using.

I think your right, I found some sites say it fits and others don't. Going to call accel today find out. Thanks for the help.

No, a relearn for taking the throttle body off and cleaning it.

They might have fit, but was the box the correct size for the sub. I'm very close to the specified .625 cu. ft. for my sealed downfiring box. I like the Alpine Type X 10 Swx-1043d, good choice.

I used 7/8" unistrut with fusor metal epoxy.

Checked all of that and the throttle body was clean prior, very gunked up. Thinking I need a relearn..

Go with the JLW6V2's in sealed enclosures. That's all I could fit under my seats lifted 2 inches

Recently put on NGK TR55IX plugs and Accel 9059 extreme 9000 wires. The acceleration is not like it used to be, thinking it is the change in gap size from .040 to .060. I'm getting a blackbear tune in June, do you think they can tweek it or do I need the AC Delco 12571164 iridiums gapped at .040?