chpspecial

not to take away from the OP, but here is mine, its a vacuum actuated set up... under vacuum its closed, when my truck hits 0 vac/boost it opens so that it does not impeed the turbo spool up. It also has a switch so that I can open it when need be.

at least we know its a truck...

Yes, the 243 heads are a direct swap to the lq9 block. I am running them on my set up. Same port design too, only change is the better valves and smaller combustion chamber.

Did you have these done at the meet... If so, I'm kicking my self for not seeing them...

Since he said that he has an lq9, then its a gmt800, and uses the 24x reluctor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4BsUycN7Hc

Have you ever seen plastic used as heat sink... or aluminum used as insulation??? food for thought

a 160* tstat allows an engine to run in the 175-180* range, a 180* tstat allows an engine to run in the 185-195* range a stock 187~190 tstat keeps our engines in the ~210* range, the hotter the engine the better on emissions it is, the colder the better for power at the cost of emissions.

Why not just do a leak and compression test on the motor. If it checks out clean, just run it and keep up with the maintenance, if it shows sings of low compression, off balance compression or leaks, then plan on rebuilding.

This is a negative, only Wheatly can tune via this Autocal, no one else as the Autocal has been merried to wheatly's V1

I'm fairly sure that the problem is with SSS.com and its host. They need to upgrade their side of things so that tapatalk is once again happy.. It work for my other sites, just not here.

This has to be the worst possible advise EVER. You do not want the driveshaft to break on you at any speed. If it snaps at freeway speeds, it can cause all kinds of damage to the underside of the truck including the gas tank, exhaust, and evap system. Not worth the risk IMHO.

thats where the MAP sensor goes on that intake.... no need for a 2bar unless you are going SD

you need a bser pan on there ASAP.... looking good otherwise

there is more to it that just an AFR reading vs throttle position. Are you in boost when this happens? Anytime you are in boost, I would think that your tuner would set you up to be in power enrichement, and it can be any value. Only way to know for sure on what YOUR afr should be are by looking at your tune. IF they are off, then you need more tuning. With out seeing your tune, the best one can do is give you "should be at Figure"

Depends on how tour tuner set you up.... At idle and cruise you should read stoich... ~14.7. At full load or wot, you will be at what ever your tuner set you to. Usually mid to low 11 for a boosted set up. sent from my thunderbolt

To narrow things down a bit, erase the codes. The truck will go back to normal operation if it is a MAF/TB correlation problem. As long as you drive normal and out of boost you will be OK. IF its a mechanical issue, the codes will come right back. Also, make sure all the connection to and from the TB are good, and have no loose wires.

Sounds like the truck is in REP, reduced engine power, do to a throttle correlation issue due to the increased airflow vs. Predicted air flow. You just need a retune. sent from my thunderbolt

get a fuel pressure gauge and install it, you should have little to no fuel pressure when the truck acts up.

drive backwards, you get infinite millage then, As for me, I routed my turbo backwards... seems to help a lot, Next, you can try DEI

Where is the smilie for "not this $hit again"

Jeff had a very nice build going, it a shame he never enjoyed it, however, its nice he has people to carry out his plans for his truck.

Original owner and build thread go here

Those things are stupid expensive, I can't remember the part number exactly but its a dealer only item.

My thought exactly. sent from my thunderbolt