Tony-CA

Replace the plastic 2nd accumulator piston with the metal one. GM#24204496.

I have the hanger-shackle setup with nitro drop shocks and Hotchkis sway bars. After experimenting with different shims from 8 degrees to 2 degrees, with the axle pointing down in all setups, I found the 8 to be the best. I still do have a slight vibration on acceleration up hills between 70-80mph but it isnt that bad. If I had a louder exhaust set-up I probably wouldnt even notice it. Pic of the axle angle. Pic of the axle shim, fat side toward the front. The shim is steel with a angled mounting hole in the center for a flush surface for the spring pack bolt. Pic of the truck. The shim does raise the rear end a bit.

Clooged cat.

I'd want to know for damn sure I had a valve issue before I slapped on a head. You could do a running compression test on the #4 hole and compare it to good hole. Usually a lower reading will show up on the affected cylinder with respect to valve sealing problems. Another option would be to hook it up to a scope with a vacum/pressure transducer. If the #4 cylinder pulled less vacum then the rest you'd know you had a mechanical problem. Something like this would probably have to be taken to a good independent repair shop. Most dealers don't even have scopes. It's all about swaptronics to them.

Are these the correct lowereing keys? They came off a 2005 chevy 2500HD.

It seems like you have a belt alignment problem. Was there any edge wear on the old belts? Check your P.S. pump pulley. Ive seen some move and cause belt noises.

I had a simillar situation way back in 02 on my GMC Sierra. It ended up being a bad throttle actuator control module. I'm not saying this is your problem for sure but you may want to try installing a known good part to see if it solves your problem.

The blower motor resister has the high speed relay built into it. Usually these relays stay on from a combination of burnt up circuit boards and sticking relay contacts. This one caused inoperative low speed settings. The updated resistors have the circuit boards incased in a some kind of thick material.

more 2/3.5...

2/3.5 DSC00793.jpg

6mm x 1.0 x 18mm

Running convential green coolant will not hurt a GM vehicle that originallly had Dex-Cool in it. Just Google Dex-Cool and you'll come up with various articles pertaining to the destructive things that Dex-Cool does. I've personally seen and repaired numerous leaking intake manifold gaskets on the 3.1/3.4/3.8/4.3/5.0/5.7 GM engines due to Dex-Cool eating away at the plastic intake gasket barrier. Some of these were 30K mile motors less than 2 years old. I've seen leaking water pump gaskets on the LSx motors that had the same collapsed plastic barrier. Some may say Dex-Cool is fine for 5 years or 150K miles but in the real world Dex-Cool tends to break down at the same rate of conventional coolant, perhaps even sooner in some cases. Just open your coolant bottle and smell the stuff. You'll also notice the brown crap etched at the top. You do not need to disassemble the motor to flush it all out. Just remove one of your heater hoses, connect the water hose and turn the vlave on. After about five minutes the whole system will be pure water. Remove the lower hose and use compressed air to blow the rest out. Add about 2 gallons of conventional green coolant and about 2 gallons of distilled water. Do it all over in two years and you'll be set.

I use to own one a few years back. The Tahoe Limited is basically a police Tahoe with a appearance package. There is nothing special about the 5.7L it uses.

The rear end is not adjustable. Do you have the alignment readings?

Have you checked your exhaust pipes? Maybe you have a plastic bag or something stuck to it...

You may want to try new front CV axles first. Worn out inner CV joints will vibrate during decelleration.

I'd say your camber and caster is just about perfect. The only thing I see wrong is your toe setting. I'd go about +1/16in on both sides giving you a total of about +1/8in. That will promote more straight line stability. With these settings you shouldnt have any tire wear problems. Your factory upper a-arm bushings should have given these guys plently of room for camber adjustment if they were aiming for more positive camber. Whar brand of drop knuckles did you use? And how many turns of the torsion bolts did you turn? By the way, I set my lowered truck to the above settings 10K miles ago with no abnormal tire wear at all.

It will probably re-learn eventually. You may want to clean your throttle body though...

I'm not sure on the brand. I was told its made in the same factory that makes the Goodmark hoods. There are a few differences though. The center section does not taper off into a point like the Goodmark. Maybe the line is wider too? The rear section of the cowl does not come back as far as the Goodmark. This may be a good thing. I believe some guys had problems with the wipers hitting with the hood open? Other then these differences the hood appears to be the same as a Goodmark. Fit and finish is excellent. If you want one contact 2006 Superado. He had about 2 left last weekend.

A week ago I bought a cowl hood from 2006 Superado. Here are a few pictures...

It could be belt slipage youre hearing...

I believe GF652 superceeds GF481. Do both filters physically look the same?

Does anyone know where the body control module is located at?