.justin.
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Posts posted by .justin.
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Just for anybody reading, initial tune was sent over on May 5th. There are some minor setup issues that need to be addressed which should be cleared up with the next log file sent in.
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Accurate power output would be difficult to ascertain with the torque converter. AWD also makes it potential dangerous for the transfer case.
We are located in San Diego and do not have the OEM SS Wheels.
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After enjoying this truck for a long 8.5 years, it is time to move on an let it go to another home. I've owned it since 2004, purchased with 16k miles on it.
2003 Arrival Blue SS
Factory 6 disc stereo
No XM, No Onstar
89,126.7 miles as of 1/31/13. It is a 3rd vehicle and will not be driven much
Modifications:
Reflexxion steel cowl hood
Weld 20x8 Cheyenne wheels
Pirelli Scorpion 275/55/20 tires with 50%+ tread life
Bassani CARB legal mid-length headers
2004 LS6 camshaft with LS6 valve springs
2009+ truck flex fuel injectors with EV6 connectors
RPM Level 6 transmission
PI 2800 Torque converter
B&M 24k GVW transmission cooler
2005 electric fans
Outlaw intake box
Magnaflow cat-back exhaust
SSBC slotted and drilled rotors
Kbb "Good" price is $16,262. I'm asking $16,000 OBO with the current hood and wheels. $14,000 with the factory hood and 2013 GM 17" wheels and tires. I can be reached at [email protected] with questions. We are in San Diego County.
Pictures below, taken 1/31/2013
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oh i thought i had to send mine to them, i have tried several times to get ahold of wheatley and blackbear over the phone left messages and everything never got an answer or a call back. So how do i contact this zippy guy?
If you've emailed me, you've definitely received a response, unless you're emailing over and over again which bumps your conversation to the bottom each time. What is your email address?
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Looks like a very nicely built setup there Chase.
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What about dyno tuning part throttle this way? Obviously, it is low load, but much longer periods of time? I'm referring to a mustangdyno and loading the vehicle at different speeds....
You should be fine. I had my SSS on the dyno for about 3 hours one day a few years ago, using it to for various tests and tuning. That was about 25k miles ago and zero issues have popped up.
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He did all my tuning on the street and IMO is an awesome tuner. The only time I was on the dyno there was for a HP number. I am just more comfortable with a live tune rather than shipping my PCM across the country, and the guy asking the question only lives an hour away.
That's perfectly fine, I wouldn't suggest anything other than in-person for a setup of your type.
That said, with the level of build that you have there, a load bearing dyno is necessary to really dial in your part throttle ignition timing. It's one thing to tune a factory-type setup on the street after having done a ton of them. It's another to try and massage out 15ft-lbs extra at 1/2 throttle at 3000rpm. That kind of gain is easily seen when tuning on a dyno of that type, but can be impossible to ascertain on the street.
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what kind of tune would i benefit more from a regular street tune or an actual dyno tune were they strap the truck to the dyno machine and see some numbers
Really depends on your modifications, the type of dyno and the competency/thoroughness of the tuner.
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so in other words dyno tunning is the same as street tune
No sir, completely different when compared to tuning on a load bearing dyno.
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The last time I email you was in Nov.10 and you responded and I wrote back again but I have still haven't heard back. Yes it was running 11.7 constant and then in Nov. it changed it started reading 12 to 12.4. I also started seeing KR. I am just trying to see what is going on.
Also, since the tune doesn't change and your WB changed from one day to the next, something in your setup must have changed. What exactly it is, I can't say, but any change like that would need to be addressed mechanically. MAF is a very common culprit.
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The last time I email you was in Nov.10 and you responded and I wrote back again but I have still haven't heard back. Yes it was running 11.7 constant and then in Nov. it changed it started reading 12 to 12.4. I also started seeing KR. I am just trying to see what is going on.
Hmmm, I don't see that, can you resend it?
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I know that there are ALOT of variables, personaly I wish I knew about tuning so I could play around with it to dial it in correct. I am seeing around .7-.5AFR diff. and suposably its bad from what I have been told on here. Like i said Im NOT calling Justin out, he did a great job for me but now that the readings are off and Im being told its bad it gets me worried. I just checked and my last responce to him was on Nov.7 and Im still waiting to hear back. Also I did do the data log tune not a mail-order tune. I understand alittle of the tuning process and from what I have read on here and other places and 12.4 is lean and 96% injector duty is not good. This is my DD, I dont want to squeeze everylast bit of HP out of it (at least not yet) but I want it to be a reliable truck with some balls to go with it.
I wouldn't put a lot of faith in the tailpipe wideband when you have your own WB stating something different. Even at 12.4 at the engine, you will not do any damage. Your wideband (from your last email chain to me) reads 11.7 at WOT and taps low 11s just before the shift.
I haven't seen any recent emails from you at all either. The last email was in September when you said you were sending back my equipment.
As for the duty cycle, while it is not ideal that high, you are not static yet, as the IBPW and IDC take into account the dead time and if you tap 96% once in a while, you're not doing any harm to the injector drivers or injectors themselves. If you were going static and dangerously lean, then new injectors would be warranted and that would be in the $400-500 range unless you lucked out.
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Hey Justin...Do you guys think I should go smaller cam or bigger converter, I still want to keep it a mild mannerered street truck that will pass CA emissions on a budget build because we plan on getting the wife a new car
-I am ready to pull the trigger now on all the parts as far a $$ goes and am picking up that 5.3 this week,I was actually hoping you would be out this way for a street tune
-We bought a condo/loft in Mission Hills (Downtown SD) and love it!!
Thanks, and talk to you soon.....
For that setup, with the changes due to the heads, I would fully suggest bringing it up to Temecula for a couple of hours on the dyno as opposed to the street. Too many variables have changed to really be able to ensure that we can get it perfect otherwise.
I think that cam can do just fine with something that flashes in the 3000-3200 range while still being very streetable. I just don't think you'll get enough out of the TBTC with the 5.3L and the torque band with that cam.
The 220 on a 112 will be iffy on emissions as it is. With those headers, you're going to have to be "creative".
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Between a Dynojet and street tuning you can get a tune dialed in pretty close. There are times when people have been tuned on a Mustang dyno and left half tuned because of how long it takes to make a pull. If you make too many back to back pulls heat can be an issue. I agree that the Mustang leaves the ability there to make the tune as close to perfect as possible if used correctly and you have a couple days to do it. The shop I work for has a Dynojet and between the street and dyno tune I can get wideband readings to within 0-6% of correct in OLSD which is closer that some of the factory tunes. The tuner is often more of the problem than the dyno they are using.
But fueling isn't even remotely as important to part throttle drivability as having the correct ignition timing, which you can only get on a load bearing dyno. Using a Mainline or Dyno Dynamics dyno, I can usually get the part throttle timing dialed in in about 15-20 minutes from 1200-3600rpm.
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not sure what you mean by backfire but i consider backfiring when you turn your truck off and you get a nice bang from your exhaust... now if by backfire you mean the nice popping sound from your exhaust when you are decelerating i dont think theres any way to completely eliminate that from your exhaust. I have stock manifolds and cats with an x pipe and magnaflow mufflers running to the stock ss tailpipe and tip and when i let off the gas and slow down without braking the exhaust pops some from the slowing of the engine but personally i like the sound it makes
i had LTs and no cats on my 5.3 silverado and it never "backfired"...i would think if your truck started to backfire you would have some kind of problem...hope this helps, but i say go for it and get the LTs and cut out those cats!
Zach
That deceleration popping occurs as the PCM transitions from normal fueling mode to deceleration fuel cut off. During this transition, the ignition timing is slowly ramped down to the point that the fuel mixture is largely burning in the exhaust as opposed to the combustion chamber. Our tunes will almost completely rid you of that popping and surging that often accompanies it.
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Where can I find some info about those?
EFILive can be downloaded in an evaluation form from www.efilive.com. Let me know if you'd like any pricing quotes or more information on the software.
Justin
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Hey Brian,
Looks like a fun setup, but I'm not quite sure you'll get the low 13s out of it you'd be hoping for. That cam with that stall won't quite get you the 60' times you'll need to get down the track that quick, IMO. Will likely have a bit of a dead spot down low.
When do you anticipate having this all buttoned up? Still living there in el cajon?
Justin
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Altitude is pretty much sea level.
Thanks for all the replies guys. He seems to be set on the 1900, as its cheaper and he will leave it relativ
ely stock other than the blower. The real thing we are concerned with was the trans, but it seems like it wont be that big an issue. Are there gunna be upgrades made available for the 6 speed anytime soon, anyone hear anything?
So who have all you guys bought your maggie's from?
We are dealers and if I'm not mistaken, so is supersub.
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I would have to disagree, the compression ratio at this level with a 2300 would NOT be an issue, however a 1900 at the OP's current elevation will need even a smaller pulley to accomedate the 6.2.
A 2300 would be best served, using a larger pulley, spinning less creating more of a dense air charge With minimal effort.
And as most know will provide a long great service in the pursut of more power.
Just my .02
What's the altitude there?
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Plan to be a regular once we move back that way.
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With the 10.5:1 compression ratio, high boost will not be ideal. The 1900 will more than accommodate you.
We have a few customers running the 6.2/6L80E with boost. The transmissions are holding up just fine thus far, even with upshift TM disabled on one of the trucks. That gentleman is running a 3" pulley as opposed to the factory 3.3" pulley along with methanol injection and is very satisfied with the performance for an everyday driver.
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socaltuning.com
His name is Sean Ellis 562-305-3532 and his dyno is in Anaheim at Superior Automotive.
They have a DynoJet dyno, which is useful for one thing only, wide open throttle.
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Unfortunately, there are so many possible causes that guessing at it will probably end up costing you more in the long run than getting some sort of scanner on there to see what's the issue. Could be an absolute lack of timing or far far too much timing, could be way too much fuel or not enough fuel, etc.
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Sad, as it looks to be in great shape otherwise...
On another note, when did you start coming back around here Jeremy??
Hello from Stafford, VA
in Member Introductions
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Great truck. Does it happen to have white stripes on the hood? I tuned a few Blue SSSs in the D.M.V. region years ago.